Yes, there are three. Two for the water jacket and one for the cam shaft.
yes
They are on the sides and rear of the block. I am guessing that you are referring to the "Freeze" plugs. That term in itself is deceiving as these plugs were never designed to provide any sort of freeze protection. Many old timers call the "welsh" plugs but I suppose because they popped out when an engine block froze, they were incorrectly called freeze plugs. The caps cover casting blocks in the engine and are usually made of metal. The are located on the sides of the block under the heads and exhaust mainfolds but above the oil pan. They are harder to get at then they are to replace. I would suspect that if they failed you usually have other related issues as well. VBdenny
ear plugs
The motor has "freeze plugs" located in the front of the block (2, one 4 each side), think two down each side, and I believe two in the rear. If there's a lot of rust in the cooling system then over time it can and will eat a hole through any of the plugs, in your case possibly those in the rear, causing the leak. Freeze plugs are NOT to prevent the block from busting if frozen. They are holes used during sand casting of the block/heads and won't save a motor if it's subjected to freezing conditons.
At any automotive parts store.
To normally install a block heater you must remove an expanstion/ freeze plug in tighten in the block heater. The 6 cylinder 4.2L engine unfortunately does not appear to have any such plugs. The V8 engine should have a screw in style block heater installed in the left front of the engine block just below the cylinder head.
Any Auto Parts Store can provide this information. BTW, the are called Freeze Plugs or Casting Plugs, not Frost Plugs.
If you can get to it, yes. But understand that there is probably rust and corrosion elsewhere in the engine and you probably have a few corroded freeze plugs that haven't given out yet. You may need to pull the starter and exhaust manifold to get to the freeze plug, and replacement plugs are available. Once they start to go it probably won't be stopping any time soon. A good anti-freeze with a rust inhibitor is certainly worth the investment if for no other reason than it prevents freeze plug failure.
The hardest part of the job is GETTING TO the freeze plug. Depending on which one is leaking, sometimes you need to pull quite a bit of stuff just to get to the freeze plug. You need to be able to examine it and have clear access to the freeze plug and if it's one of the rear plugs (under the flywheel), you're only option is to pull the engine and/or transmission. Once you can get to it, just drive a screwdriver or other sharp object through the freeze plug and pry it out. Clean the block around the freeze plug then install one of the aftermarket types, preferably one that allows you to tighten a bolt to install it. You'll have trouble getting an original type freeze plug to seal if you don't have the engine block sitting on a workbench. Any time you have an engine machined, always replace the freeze plugs.
This sounds like it could be a broken freeze plug or a crack in the engige near one of the coolant circulation veins. freeze plugs are used so that cars with an inadequate amount coolant (meanin too much water not enough antifreeze) that are left in freezing weather will bust one the weaker freeze plugs which aare easier to repair than if the pressueof expanding ice cracking the block.
Your engine will overheat, rapidly if they have 'popped out' (on any vehicle, incidentally) because all the anti-freeze will leak out.
to change all freeze plugs on any engine is expensive, as the engine and transmission need to be split to get at pluigs behind flywheel.sometimes the engine needs to be removed freon vehicle to get at others