Absolutely not. I think it is possible, but it depends on how many Amps [or Watts] the refrigerator draws [uses], AND the sustained output [Amps or Watts] that the converter is capable of producing. For example, if the converter was rated for a sustained/continuous output of 10 Amps at 120 Volts [that's 1200 Watts], and the refrigerator requires only 6 Amps at 120 Volts [that's 720 Watts], then I say the converter can safely operate the refrigerator.
Answer 3 -- Watt?
Are you thinking of running a 120 volt refrigerator from a car battery? Back up to "absolutely not". There are RV refrigerators that can run for a short time from a car battery (preferably a deep-cycle type), but they can barely keep the fridge cool under the best of circumstances.
Unless the engine is running, the battery will be drained in a couple of hours. If the battery is a deep-cycle, you can recharge it; if not, you'll have to buy a new battery.
Also, if the fridge requires 720 watts and the converter is only 50% efficient, it's sucking 1500 watts from the battery, which is a lot more than leaving the headlights on. Even the little "six pack" coolers that run on 12 volts will run a battery down pretty quickly unless the engine is running. Try using an ice chest.
no you can get different amp chargers but they will charge any battery the higher the amps the faster the charge but it is better to charge a battery slowly so you shouldn't charge on very high settings any 12vdc car battery charger will charge a 12vdc car battery
They are 12 DC Voltage. A transformer is required to transform the main voltage (120VAC) to the low voltage (12VDC) that is required for the operation of low voltage lamps. The transformer may be wire-wound (magnetic) or electronic and both types are available with various features that dictate their application. Generally, electronic transformers have a high frequency output, are small in physical size and weight and often include features such as output voltage regulation and dimming capability.
A #8 wire with an insulation rating of 75 or 90 degrees C is rated at 45amps respectively.
A #10 wire with an insulation rating of 60,75 or 90 degrees C is rated at 30 amps respectively.
The current rating on a charger ("1000 mA", "500 mA"), usually means the currentthat the charger is capable of supplying if it needs to. It's NOT the current that'salways being pumped out.If your 7AH battery needs 500 mA at some time during the charging operation,then a 1000mA charger is capable of supplying it.
You would need a 12VDC to 120VAC power supply.
Yes, you can. Here's why. If a supply's output is rated at 12 volts DC (12 VDC) and 500 milliamperes (500mA), it can deliver a maximum of 500mA at the 12 volt rating. You want to use a 12VDC supply that is rated at 1A (1000mA). That means that the supply is capable of delivering up to 1A at 12VDC. Now the crux of the matter. Your device, that's the load on the supply, needs 12VDC to operate. Your replacement supply is rated at 12VDC. No problem. Your supply delivered a max of 500mA. That does NOT mean that your load, that thing you're powering up, actually uses all 500mA. Your load knows how much current it needs to draw. Your supply has to be rated for more than that. Your supply was rated at 500mA. It worked well. The supply you wish to use will deliver a max of 1A (1000mA). It will easily supply the current your load will use. Oh, and the polarity of the new supply must be the same as that of the old one. That's pretty obvious. Always be safe and consult an electronics specialist for electrical questions. There are a number of savvy folks working at consumer electrical outlets who can get you up to speed.
Almost all cars in NZ have 12VDC electrics. Most portable generators which produce 230VAC, will also have a 12VDC accessory output for battery charging, etc. There are no general reticulations of 12VDC.
You'll probably have to have a step-down transformer to take the 220vac down to 110vac. Then you'll have to have an Ac to Dc converter box to change the Ac to Dc volts. The converter will probably have an adjustable output so that you can dial in 12vdc.
850va 12vdc inverter transformer praemari tans
The coil of the door lock is open-shorted,etc. or the 12VDC to the coil is missing-could be a pinched wire or the switch not working.
From what? If you need 12VDC for temporary use, there is a very good 12VDC source in your PC power supply.
I am assuming you are trying to run a refriderator on a 12vdc inverter. These units are very inductive, so they start with a great deal of current. A 1000 watt refrigerator may need 3000 watts to start. There are three possible solutions. 1. Buy a larger inverter 2. Get an inverter with "soft start" This limits current for a few cycles and lowers overall start current. 3. Turn off everything else why you start the unit. (this will need to happen every cycle of unit) Your current load at 12vdc is going to be very high. I use aluminum bus bars to tie my batteries together. This is a better conductor then copper and reduces heat. remember that for every amp on the 110VAC side you will see 10 amps at the 12vdc side. You will have serious hot spots if you do not have solid connections and bus bars.
http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz
Most all are 12vdc
One. 12VDC 54AH.
It stands for "12 volts, direct current".