no you must run a dedicated line
NO
Yes, with a caveat. The current ratings must be the same, the the 110V outlet must be a dedicated circuit, i.e. nothing else on that breaker. You can safely upgrade a dedicated 110V 15A circuit to a 220V 15A circuit by re-using the same wiring. You will have to just replace the breaker and the outlet. You cannot, however, increase the current load or have a 110/220V (4-prong) outlet. Note that if you move a non-dedicated circuit up to 220 you will start a fire.
I read this question as " I spent alot of money on a hot tub and I want to save money on the installation, so how cheaply can I endanger my family to impress them?" Call a professonal!!!...pkazsr
It is stated in the electrical code that a hot tub must have a GFCI ahead of the hot tub load. This means that a normal receptacle can not be used in this occasion.
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Most normal outlets are 120 volts. Anything that needs ~120 can be used in a normal socket.
No, the current on the primary side of the transformer will be too high. Hot tubs are usually around 40 amps at 240 volts. On a step up transformer it is a two to one ratio. This relates to an amperage input of 80 amps at 120 volts. The size of the transformer would be about 10 kva. The price of the transformer alone would be more that the cost of installing a proper 240 volt feed to the hot tub.
WARNING
No way should anyone who is not a licensed electrical engineer tamper with any 240 volt outlet.
It is not safe to replace any 240 volt outlet with a 120 volt outlet unless the following actions are also taken:
A licensed electrician would know how to check all these items for you and would advise the best action for you to take.
He would use the correct size of wire to supply the current required by the 110 - 120 Volt appliances you want to use and connect it to the correct sizes of circuit breakers on the main panel and also a GFCI safety device to protect users from electrocution if the room is likely to be damp or have water spray or wet floors, walls or ceiling, such as a laundry room or a kitchen.
All this is necessary to comply with the latest Wiring Codes in your locality. (Town/State.)
Then you would be able to use a 110 - 120 Volt appliances safely in the room in question.
The following information is incomplete and unsafe to follow on its own:
"240 VAC (in the USA) is usually supplied by two out of phase 120 VAC lines. The way to tell is that it will have three connections - the two 120 V Hot lines and a Neutral connection. There is 120 VAC between each line and Neutral.
Before you try to make a 120 v socket from a 240, measure with a voltmeter between each set of contacts. If you get 120 between two of the three sets, you can change it over to 120 v.
First run off the power. Then remove the socket, and wire a 120 V socket to one of the 120 V Hot wires and the Neutral. Make sure you wire the Neutral to the white metal contact and the Hot to the brass or gold colored contact. Make sure the other 120 v Hot is isolated."
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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
This is a job for an electrician. If you do not know exactly what you are doing, you could end up electrocuting yourself, anyone using the hot tub, or burn down your house.
Theoretically that can be done with transformers, but the power available would still be limited by the circuit breaker on the original 120 v supply.
Most residences have two 110-120V separate supplies that are combined to provide double the voltage or 220-240V. So you get 220V between hot of each 110V supply. Hence, hot to hot. A 270V system would typically not be in a residence, but a commercial establishment and is provided as a separate supply from a transformer. Hence the 270V is supplied hot to ground.
If the transformer has two separate windings, then, YES a step-down can be used as a step-up, and vice-versa.It is more correct to say you are reversing the high and low sides.By definition Primary is the "IN" side and Secondary is the "OUT" side.The Primary could be the high voltage side if it is a step-down,or it could be the low voltage side, if it is a step-up.Design ConsiderationsCare must be taken when reversing the operation of a step-down transformer to insure that it does not exceed the ratings of the transformer. For example, let's say we have a 12 VA step-down transformer that takes 120Vac in and is rated to provide 12V at 1 amp at the secondary. If we were to reverse it and apply 12Vac to the new primary (the old secondary), we would have 120Vac at the new secondary, but to keep within the original ratings it could only be loaded to 0.1A @ 120Vac.As long as you treat the output rating of the step-down transformer as the input rating as a step-up transformer, and don't try to draw current beyond what would normally have been applied to the high voltage primary, you should be fine. Potentially one could push up the voltage on such a transformer beyond what its stated application specified, while making sure not to exceed the power rating of the transformer and not exceeding the breakdown voltage of the transformer's insulation, for example driving the above transformer at 24V to get 0.05A @ 240Vac. It is important to realize though that the rated input voltage for a step-down transformer will likely not be a safe input voltage if you use it as a step-up transformer - for example, applying 120V to the above transformer with the windings reversed would generate 1.2KV!One important point to remember when reversing a three-phase transformer to a step-up is what kind of windings it has. Most three-phase transformers use a "delta" configuration on the primary side. This means that there are three "hot wires" and a ground, but not a neutral. (The white wire in a circuit). On the secondary side, transformers are usually wired up in a "Wye" (sometimes called a "star" configuration. Doing this allows the transformer to create a Neutral connection. If a step-down transformer is reversed to make it a step-up, the high (output) side will not have a Neutral connection. If one is not needed, say for a three-phase welding machine, this would not be a probem. However, if a Neutral IS needed ,say for lighting, reversing this transformer would not work. In this case, a listed step-up transformer will be needed. One final thing, if a step-down transformer is used as a step-up, a Neutral wire is not required to be connected to the input side.
Assuming you are talking about a 120/240v delta system the color coding is as follows. Phase A(120v)-Black Phase B(208v "Wild leg/High phase")-Orange Phase C(120v)-Blue There are other color coding methods but this is the most common.
Moisture entered inside the transformer coil may cause loss of IR value. IR value can be increased by removing the moisture. Keep the transformer in a hot air chamber for sufficient time to vaporize the moisture.
Because they are "in-phase". In order to get 240v, you need two 120v Alternating Current lines that are 180° out of phase, that is, opposite phases. Only when one line is +120v and the other -120v will you see 240v between the wires.
Theoretically that can be done with transformers, but the power available would still be limited by the circuit breaker on the original 120 v supply.
There are no adptors to plug a 240v plug into a 120v receptacle. 240v requires two hot wores and a neutral and ground. 120v requires one hot wire, a neutral and a ground. If you have something that runs on 240/120 you need the cord and adaptor that came with the equipment as you willl need the wires to mate up accordingly.
Most residences have two 110-120V separate supplies that are combined to provide double the voltage or 220-240V. So you get 220V between hot of each 110V supply. Hence, hot to hot. A 270V system would typically not be in a residence, but a commercial establishment and is provided as a separate supply from a transformer. Hence the 270V is supplied hot to ground.
120v and 240v cords usually have different end configurations and will not plug into the different recepticles. However, if you changed the plug end, and the cord has the proper size rating, then yes, you could use the same cord. But, it also depends on the cord too. Most 120v cords only have three wires in them. One "hot one "neutral" and one "ground" wire. A 240v cord would have FOUR wires, two "hot" wires, one neutral wire, and one ground wire. Therefore, if you changed the voltage from 120v to 240 using a 3 wire cord, you'd not have a ground wire and that could be VERY dangerous. Note that occasionally a 240v device (e.g. some motors) will only need three wires (red,black,green, no neutral) and can be wired with a 120v cord if the cord is rated for 240v.
CL200 is the class of the meter240V is 240 volts3W is 3 wire (hot 120v / hot 120v / neutral)FM2S is the type of meterIs this an Itron meter? The FM2S will tell you what features it has when you look at the datasheets.
The transformer steps down the voltage from 600kilo volts which is what is at the power pole/lines to multiple strands of 120v or hot wires which is what your house runs off of.
Not a hard job or complicated but could be hazardous. Hire a professional.
Absolutely not. In the U.S. all power is 120v on a single line (one hot, one neutral, one ground) overseas all power is 230v on a single line. Will fry your unit. You can however by a step down or up transformer fairly cheaply at radio shack.
I think I understand what you are asking. 3-phase motors usually are equipped with a starter or contactor, since all 3 hot wires need to be switched. The control voltage that runs the starters is 120V, because it's safer and also 120V switches and relays are cheaper. You would have a 480-120V transformer (called a control transformer) in the starter box to provide the 120V "control voltage". So the arrangement you describe would have two contactors, with two phases reversed between them. Energize one, and the motor runs forward. Energize the other, and it runs reverse. The switch sends 120V to each of the contactors, which are equipped with 120V coils.
you do NOT put two 110v breakers in. you put 1 two pole breaker in. the panel is designed to give you 220v off one side OR the other side if you use a 2 pole breaker on one side or the other side. If you look at both 120V lines on an oscilloscope you will notice that they are both 120V to the neutral, but they are 180 degrees out of phase. This means that when one hot is at +120V the other is at -120V. So between the two you have 240V. If you put your meter across both hots you should see 240V. If you do not see 240V across both hots you (or an unlicenced electrician) has wired the outlet without using a proper 220V breaker. You do not see 240V because the hots are in phase, to the voltage differential is 0V, not 240V. 220V breakers cannot do this, unless forcebly installed in the wrong type panel. More than likely someone tried to wire it with 110V breakers.
So what's your question? 110V would be hot to neutral/ground. 220V is hot-to-hot (phase to phase).