In general, an ammeter needs to be installed between the device providing electricity and the device(s) using electricity. This kind of connection, where you break the wire and install the meter across the break, is called a "series" connection. In an automobile, the ammeter should be installed in the smaller of the two positive (usually red) battery cables, the one that runs from the positive battery terminal to the alternator charging terminal (and also to rest of the non-starter electrical loads). Here is a simple drawing: B+ ------(\)---------- A+ ---------- ACC
ST Where: (\) = The Ammeter
B+ = Positive Battery Terminal
A+ = Alternator Charging Terminal
ST = Starter (large cable)
ACC = To vehicle Accessories (small cable) i.e., ignition, lights, etc.
------ = smaller (typically 10 gauge) red wire
= larger battery/starter cable (typically 4 gauge or larger) Notes: * Do not install the ammeter in the large cable that goes to the starter. * The small cable from the Alternator to the battery may be attached to the battery terminal, or it may be attached to the starter terminal. Electrically these are equivalent. * In order for the ammeter to properly show whether the battery is charging or discharging, the ammeter must be installed between (a) the battery and (b) both the alternator and fuse block/ignition switch. * If the accessory cable is also attached to the starter, it will have to be removed and attached to the alternator side of the ammeter or to the alternator as shown in the drawing. * Make sure you disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on the electrical system. ALWAYS wear safety googles whenever working on or near the vehicle battery.
To do the job properly, yes. But with experience and a few tricks it can be done without removing the pan.
All other things equal, yes. For several reasons. The biggest one is the extra 45 CID the 350 has. A 305 is basically an underbored 350 and was designed as an economy engine. The small bore of the 305 limits the valve sizes that can be used because of clearance problems with the block itself. If you want to go fast, the 305 is one of the worst small block Chevy engines you can build. Only the 262 and 267 are even worse when it comes to performance potential.
There is no information on the internet about what the special feature of the Chevy 305 engine is, in fact, the Chevy 305 and 350 are interchangeable, one is just an older model.
Yes it will. It will bolt right on... 100% interchangeable.
On the front of the timing chain cover, drivers side towards the top of the harmonic balancer.
Never tried it, but they're both internally balanced, so it should work out fine.
pi times the radius squared times the # of cylinders times the stroke.
3.14159*3.736/2(3.736/2)8*3.484=305
3.14159*3.776/2(3.776/2)8*3.484=312
Yes, the only thing that you will have to change is the flexplate to the trans mission. The 305-350 engines are internal balanced engines and the 383 is an external balanced engine. This means the Harmonic Balancer and the flexplate will be weight on them.
all external bolt on parts will work. heads, intake, dist, cam, pan, timing chain, oil pump etc. should all work as well. most internal parts will not work though. such as pistons crank rods and block.
The 305 crank will fit the 350, but will need to be balanced.
i would not use the 305 heads due to small compression chambers.
Absolutely! It bolts to a 305 exactly the same way it bolts to a 350... It's completely interchangeable.
A 305 chevy engine has a bore diameter of 3.736". Check the diameter of your L2256 piston to see if it is that size.