Before you start I recommend you take a picture or take some notes on how the belt is actually install. The Locate the automatic tensionner, an my 1997 it is a little behind the alternator pulley. Using a pry bar or a pair of vise grip remove the tension on the belt an remove the belt. The Installing is the reverse of removing. Just make sure the belt is properly align with all the pulleys,

if its disc brake you will find 2 bolts on the rear calipers with lock nut behind each one jack up the rear and support well loosen both bolts then remove lower one all together lift caliper and remove pad you aill need either a brake piston clamp or just a g clamp which you will need to put one end into the brake piston and the other onto the rear of the caliper to move the piston into the caliper far enough to fit the newer thicker pads after all this is done simply slide in the new pads with the lining on the disc surface and steel facing out making sure the spring on the base of each pad is located into its locking point then simply bolt the caliper back in place.

if its drum (dont think any are)then you should really have a manual to work from but if you want to try then you will need to jack up the rear remove the wheel chock the opposite front wheel to the side lifted release the handbrake and try to remove the drum by hand if that doesnt work you may find two threads on the outer surface of the drum where you can fit bolts to pull them off(not to sure with xh's)if it wont come off easy dont force it you will need to look on the back of the drum where you will find a slot now this could be tricky for a novice but if you get a thin flat head and stick it in the slot you can feel a cog about the size of a ten cent coin on the left hand rear wheel it needs to be wound downward to loosen the brake pads and the right needs to be wound upward to do the same once the drum is off there are two pins with springs and retainers on each pad mounting bracket use pliers to push them in and twist to release pay attention to the spring assembly on the entire setup and draw diagrams if you have to but basically remove it all and installation is a reversal of the same thing.to adjust your rears afterward simply adjust the cogs in the rear in the opposite direction of removal until the drum is a nice fit on the pads with minimum clearance. your handrake can be adjusted under the car right under the drivers feet aswell adjust nut until your handbrake locks the wheels within 3 clicks

It is attached to the backside of the headlight switch. If you look up under the dashboard at the headlight switch you should be able to see the fuses.

There is a clip that can be removed, then it can be pulled off the side of the switch, however the easiest method is to remove the entire switch.

With one hand reach up under the dash, and follow the switch to where it meets the dashboard. You should on one side find a small metal button. Push that button in while pulling on the headlight switch knob and the knob should pull out of the dash. Then unscrew the trim bezel for the switch and remove the switch from under the dash. Now you should be able to easily access the fuses.

should be on the main pulley, but you should be able to find a shop manual at the local library with the right information on this -- make copies of the pages, as they are usually for REFERENCE only...:)

the problem is that the key is used (when inserted) to dis-engage the steering lock. If the lock is engaged you have a problem. The barrel itself is located/locked in the tube with a small locating bolt.To get at this ,however you need to remove the lower dash first and then the top housing.You will then be able to see the bolt head (6mm I think).On the underside of the barrel tube there is a spring loaded locator bar which must be pushed in and at the same time the barrel eased out (use a srewdriver).The wires from the switch go out to 2 connectors 1 brown (4 way) and one white (6 way)

the wiring must be freed from the loom and these plugs disconnected , they can then be fed back through the side of the steering barrel tube. Hope this helps Dave

Average? None or as close to it to make it none.

Under the steering wheel to the left, just above the high beam switch near the floor.

I think that on your VP commodore when you say that the central locking is not working that the problem is with the rear doors, and when this happens the problem is when the solenoid on the door lock assembly has given out,so make sure that all of the wiring to the doors is good, plus the remote is working right then ,if still not working go to the wreckers and get a rear door lock mechanism out of a VS commodore and the newer part should work.

how to remove key barrel from a XR8 steering column

my remote central locking as just stoped working any ideas batt on key fob is new

locked car up at night next morning just wont open got to use key

on the back of the engine on the end of the crankshaft. you have to remove auto/ manual box and drive plate/ flywheel to gain access to it.

The 74 Super Beetle has the larger 1600 engine (Actually 1584cc) and will definitely not get 35MPG. More like 25. Maybe 27-28, if you have the manual 4-speed, but the 3 speed, or "manumatic" will not do even that well. Still a great car though.

http://www.superbeetles.com/faq.htm has a lot of good information on them. (The main site as well.)

Use your hax to do it

it's been a while since I've had to do it but i think it's like this.

get in car

close door

turn ignition on

press the rear demister quickly. ie three times in under five seconds

the central locking should cycle a couple of times.

this means it's in the remote learning program.

simply press the unlock/lock button on all the remotes remotes in sequence that you want to use. up to 4 can be used.

i think the indicators flash telling you it recognises the remote.

turn ignition off.

you should be able to unlock and lock the car now.

failing this. try the rear wiper button instead. i think the procedures are slightly differnet for sedans and wagons.

the purpose is to suck myy ballls

the transmission check point is under the car on the drivers side of the transmission. you need a 16mm spanner and you need to check it when the transmission is hot. and the car running. if you check the transmission when the car is at operating temp with the car switched off, the level will be down. the car must be in the park position.

the dotted area on the steering wheel.

sydney