It is through accidental introduction that the Japanese beetle is here in the United States of America.
Specifically, the insect in question (Popillia japonica) comes from Japan. Experts consider the beetle's introduction as an accidental companion to a shipment of iris bulbs before 1912. The first recorded instance of the exotic pest's presence on American soil dates to 1916 at a New Jersey nursery near Riverton and to 1939 in a sight-seer's car arriving by ferry from Maine to Nova Scotia, Canada.
apply paint and varnish remover to the area around the hinges follow the directions on the bottle the paint should peal away and reveal the screws take a sharp knife cut around hinge then with a hammer gently tap screwdriver into slot and turn out or use a "ezy-out"you can get these at any hardware store good luck bob I agree with both the above answers, just want to provide a third possibility. A good addition to any household tool kit is a variable temperature heat gun, available at Sears. Set the temp below 500 degrees (200 degrees below the vapor point of lead based paint) and heat the area until paint just begins to bubble then scrape with a carbide scrapper, or a sharp 5-in-1 putty knife. Be sure to use a HEPA vacuum to clean up the paint chips. Chase the edges of the hinges with a utility knife to help the extraction with out ripping the edges of the wood.
the library should have a shop manual for this vehicle, you can make copies of the right sections :)
If it is the same as my 68, the horn button is held in place by a rubber o-ring under the button. carrefully work a thin, flat screw driver under the edge of the horn button and TWIST. Be careful not to chip the button. This should pop out the horn button.
Most door panels have screws located underneath the door armrest. Look carefully and find them all. Remove door handle; look for hidden screws or clips. Next carefully pull at the bottom of the panel to release the plastic clips. I usually use a flat blade screwdriver to gently pry with. Be sure to keep watching underneath looking up to make sure that the panel is releasing and to make sure you did not miss any screws. Keep track of all clips, screws, etc. Make sure that the glide button is not worn on your window track as this could be why the window came off in the first place. there is a recall on this for the window regulators call the dealer. <incorrect. A now expired warranty extension was added for this problem. It expired in 2007.
Push the center of the upper dash up towards the windshield. The two side panels can then be lifted up from the center. The lower panels of the dash are attached by Torx screws which can be removed as well.
When your under the car look at the back of the light. the wires sticking out. Grab at the base of the wires and twist counter-clockwise it should release the bulb and then all you do is pull it out and unhook the wires. (reverse For putting back in)
; L3 Cache (Level 3 Cache) This type of cache is becoming more prevalent as microprocessor manufacturers ship more processors with L1 and L2 cache built into the processor. L3 cache is then the extra cache that sits on the motherboard between the processor and main memory, since the processor already contains L1 and L2 cache. Some processors are starting to ship with L3 cache built-in as well to speed up memory operations further. In those cases the L3 cache often sits on a separate area of the die, not built directly into the chip core.
1. Close and lock all doors with the driver's side power lock/unlock switch. 2. Insert key into ignition and remove it from the ignition key cylinder at least six times within 10 seconds. Your Hazard Lamps will flash if you have performed this step successfully. ( Withdraw key completely from ignition cylinder each time ) . If this procedure is performed too fast, system will not enter programming mode. 3. Insert key into the ignition cylinder and turn to the ACC position. 4. Within 5 seconds, push ANY button on the keyless remote. Your Hazard Lamps should flash. ( Do not press the button more than one time in the above step). If the button is pressed more than one time, the programming procedure will not be successful. 5. If there are any remaining remotes (including the old ones), unlock then lock all doors using the driver's side power lock/unlock switch and within 5 seconds, push ANY button on the next remote. Your Hazard Lamps should flash. Repeat this step for each keyless remote (including any existing keyless remotes). 6. Turn the key to the OFF position, remove keys from the ignition, unlock doors using the driver's side power lock/unlock switch and open the driver side door.
Ok, there is a one bolt that holds in the disributor. it will be conected to a crows foot looking clamp. Take the bolt out and on Fords it more of a pain then just Chevy's. Chevy's just twist out while pulling. Fords are the same . but to put it back in you have to bump the motor until it falls in. Kind of a pain to set timming. But usually you hold it where the #1 spark plug is and it will fall into place. It's a two man operation.
Ok, there is a one bolt that holds in the disributor. it will be conected to a crows foot looking clamp. Take the bolt out and on Fords it more of a pain then just Chevy's. Chevy's just twist out while pulling. Fords are the same . but to put it back in you have to bump the motor until it falls in. Kind of a pain to set timming. But usually you hold it where the #1 spark plug is and it will fall into place. It's a two man operation. To make it super simple.
To remove the front drum you must first pull off the hub cap and you will see a big cap over the center. You must pry this piece off by working your way around the edges of the cap, no need to be too gentle it's pretty difficult to damage this piece as you use a hammer to put the cap back on, then you will see a nut w/ an Allen headed screw going through it, you loosen the screw and then take an adjustable wrench and then remove the nut, after that you can pull the drum off. careful of the washer and the whell bearings from falling out
I really depends on what distributor you have on the engine. It could be a mechanical advance distributor or a vacuum advance distributor (stock). Google "the Somba" Volkswagen forum and all will be explained.
(Nippondenso Alternator on 3.0 liter V6 Engine)
1) Remove the negative battery cable,
2) Remove the alternator drive belt,
Note: The Poly-V alternator/power steering pump belt is provided with a
dynamic tensioner to maintain proper belt tension. To remove or
install this belt, insert a 1/2 in. breaker bar in the opening provided
and release tension by rotating the tensioner counterclockwise.
3) Remove the alternator mounting nut (top) and bolt (bottom) and separate
the alternator from the mounting plate,
4) Remove the B+ terminal, 2 field terminal nuts, ground and wire harness
hold down nuts. Remove wire harness from alternator.
5) Remove the alternator from the vehicle.
To reinstall, reverse the above procedure making sure the belt is in the
proper position on all pulleys.
Gary.
Get a tune up, but first see if when you push the clutch all the way in is it still even slightly engaged because if it is then tighten the cable.
Your battery is probably dead/dying. At idle (like when you stop), the charging system isn't always putting out enough juice to keep the car running on it's own, so it uses the battery to keep it running. If your battery is dead when it needs that juice it isn't there and the car dies, then because the battery is dead the car can't turn over and restart itself. I would have the battery checked first, and probably replace it. Also get the generator/voltage regulator checked to make sure it is charging the battery sufficiently.
In my opinion, they are a good car and stable on the road. If you look at the tire width or stance, they are quite stable and less likely to roll over than an average car.
Go for it and buy one.
Ask 10 people and you'll get 10 answers.
SAE 30W is what was required but you can use a 10w30 or if your in a hotter climate most of the year you can go to a 10w40 or so.
It is a pain to do, but you need two 17mm wrenches and a friend. The starter is on the right side of the car bolted to the transmission.
Friend crawls under the car, which is jacked up and on jackstands (this procedure also works for Buses but you don't have to jack them up), and puts the box-end of one of the wrenches on the top bolt.
You put the other wrench in your hand, reach around behind the fan shroud on the right side, feel around until you find the nut, then remove it with the wrench you have.
Once you get the bolt out, you go to your bolt can, get a bolt about an inch long, then take both bolts to a welding shop and tell the guy "this is a VW starter bolt (holding up the long one) and I'd like you to weld this bolt (holding up the other one) to the head of it." The guy will take it in the back and come out a couple minutes later with the job done. Give him five bucks, thank him nicely and you'll be able to remove the bolt easily forevermore.
This problem is common and I have seen many answers. The selection that makes some sense accumulated below. BUT I have now discovered the problem is simply the operator is NOT holding the down switch down long enough. Operate it until the motor noise stops...until the bell chimes and the little identifier changes back to time and temp. That's all!
This is a biggie: Make sure the arm that you pull and twist to unlock is totally fully clicked back in its holder before opening. There is definitely a sensor that says this is in the strong position.
In the bow next to that mechanism (near a securing spot) there is a sensor that goes bad. (One of the more common reasonable sounding answers (found above too) - especially as the car ages - it seems 5+ years and one can imagine where it is gets a bit rusted).
Same idea as above - and because of what it is - the sensor is just dirty and confused. Try cleaning with something that does not leave a residue.
Again the idea above, but with better - where and how. (This just sounds like the million $ answer for most): There is a small switch where, when closing and securing the top, it triggers the flaps to close. Location: passenger side windshield frame. What to do (might move the seat back and stand up). Place your pinky finger pointing in toward the driver's side and you will feel a little metal switch. You should be able to lift this up and down with your finger. Get some electrical grease and coat the switch as best you can. The problem is that a great deal of road grime accumulates and covers the switch.
Assorted suggestions to disconnect the buzzer or electrical: All bad. These cars like most modern ones have computer checks that do NOT take well to any override.
Clean all the seat buckle connectors. The top has sensors for these too. Maybe has grease on it?
The dual key turn in the driver's door to unlock fixes alarm problems like this in many cars.