First, you'll need a radio. If there isn't a hole in the dash the right size for the radio you'll need to cut one or mount it underneath the dash or in the glovebox. There is a spare fuse location in the standard fuse box (furthest to the right on the Australian model, if I remember right) which is provided by the factory for an optional radio. Wire power to that, earth to any metal part of the body behind the dash. Depending on the radio, you'll probably need both a switched and unswitched power input, check different fuses with a multimeter and turn the key on and off to find what you need. If you don't understand so far, pay a professional to do it.

If you don't have any speakers yet, there are holes in the metal behind the door trims for a shallow round speaker of about 5" diameter, and you can cut holes in the door trims and stick them in there. Most modern speakers are too deep and you'll need to buy or build some spacers or door pods for the speakers, or put them somewhere else, like in a wooden parcel shelf behind the back seat. There would be room behind the back seat for plenty of audio gear, and the rear side panels might be an option as well.

I've seen speakers in front kick panels and underneath the dash as well but don't like them in that location. Of course, there's always the standard position of a single speaker behind the dash next to the speedometer!

Maybe I am missing something, but I would try replacing the bulbs. There's a very good chance it will work, and it is inexpensive and easy to do (if it only needs a bulb). Hopefully, you don't have to replace the whole headlight and can just screw a replacement bulb into the back of your headlight. That's how it works on my Olds Cutlass Cierra.

Should be 28-32

As old as these cars are, it could be anything: I've seen one that's green, two that were red, a purple one, five black ones and a white one. What happens is the wire goes bad (as any wire that's fifteen feet long and thirty years old will do) and the guy who owns the car will go to his stash box, pull out the first hunk of 12-gauge stranded wire he can find, and fix the car with it. If that hunk of 12AWG is chartreuse green with a pink stripe, the color of the hot wire on your car is chartreuse and pink.

2000 lbs, give or take a 100 lbs.

You use a feeler gauge set to .006 in. Engine cold. You really should get the Bentley manual as you will need it. It has gobs if info in it.

I really depends on what distributor you have on the engine. It could be a mechanical advance distributor or a vacuum advance distributor (stock). Google "the Somba" Volkswagen forum and all will be explained.

It can blow out a main seal, or even a gasket if it is overfilled regularly. But usually it will just burn off. at least that's what I've heard a few people say.

If I remember right, it's the amount of time the points stay closed. How long they stay closed for the coil to zap the plugs. The longer the dwell the longer the spark. Too long a dwell then it uses up to much juice and there won't be enough time to recharge for the next zap. Too little then the spark won't be hot enough.

In my opinion, they are a good car and stable on the road. If you look at the tire width or stance, they are quite stable and less likely to roll over than an average car.

Go for it and buy one.

Ask 10 people and you'll get 10 answers.

SAE 30W is what was required but you can use a 10w30 or if your in a hotter climate most of the year you can go to a 10w40 or so.

It is a pain to do, but you need two 17mm wrenches and a friend. The starter is on the right side of the car bolted to the transmission.

Friend crawls under the car, which is jacked up and on jackstands (this procedure also works for Buses but you don't have to jack them up), and puts the box-end of one of the wrenches on the top bolt.

You put the other wrench in your hand, reach around behind the fan shroud on the right side, feel around until you find the nut, then remove it with the wrench you have.

Once you get the bolt out, you go to your bolt can, get a bolt about an inch long, then take both bolts to a welding shop and tell the guy "this is a VW starter bolt (holding up the long one) and I'd like you to weld this bolt (holding up the other one) to the head of it." The guy will take it in the back and come out a couple minutes later with the job done. Give him five bucks, thank him nicely and you'll be able to remove the bolt easily forevermore.

http://www.dbsforums.com/azel.html use this to coordinate azimuth, elevation and angle.

Perhaps bad bulbs or bad switch

Actually the most common cause of low beam failure on Chevy Trailblazer, GMC Envoy and Buick Ranier is the micro relay located under the hood. It is part number 15016745 and has four prongs. To test if your relay has gone bad locate the relay in your fuse box. There will be two such relays located next to each other. One controls the low beam headlights and the other the cooling fan. Swap the relays and check your low beam headlights. If the low beams work you have a bad relay. Sometimes when the relay goes bad a bulb will burn out as well so if need be check your bulbs. Make sure to swap the relays back so that the cooling fan is not inoperative. Purchase a new relay either online, eBay, auto parts store or dealer. Best deals are usually found online but fastest is the dealer if they have them in stock. Dealer prices aren't cheap, expect to pay $40 to $50, but if you can't wait to have the relay shipped to you it is sometimes your only option. I actually found mine on eBay for $20.

Try online search for "15016745 relay"

The Beetles have the two levers on the center console on either side of the emergency brake handle. One is the Heat on/off lever and the other is the floor/defroster lever.

Push the heat lever all the way down to the floor to turn it off.

change the light bulb that does not go on, on low beam, it possible that the wire inside the bulb for low beam is broken

Bulbs burnt out (they are double filamented low beam may be burned out) Bad dimmer switch? Bad headlight switch? Bad low-beam relay?

2000 lbs.

$1940.00

1500 rpm.

Did you check to see if you actually had power to the light socket? Old cars are bad for having bad grounds.

Check and clean the light "Housing" connections first if you have power to the socket. The housing and body will sometimes corrode just enough to lose the ground. Just loosening and re-tightening the bolts will some times fix it. When you check for power make sure you use more then one place for a ground. Make sure the fuse connections are nice and clean as they can get a real fine layer of corrosion and then you won't get a connection there either.

u have to take the hole thing apart to get to a small screw to take the switch out