Depending on the model, B C or D there are some differences. The C model has lights on the rear pillars - access is by removing the two screws - see weblink for details. If it is a model with conventional lights ie below the window, access is via a panel inside the boot area. Remove the panel, remove the connector and replace bulb with the correct type. The bulb has small lugs like an household bulb, it will remove and replace with a twist action. Some bulbs are combined stop tail lights, so check at the accessory shop.

it could be that the SRS light has come on due to a broken air bag connector ring ,it sits behind the wheel and connects the loom to the air bag and horn or...... it could be a falty air bag.... Saab issued a recall for "95" airbag moduls , the plug it self might of come lose so its worth having a look your self by taking the steering wheel off and ignition cowling or

Begin by removing the positive cable from your 1995 Saab battery. Remove the cables from the front of the starter. Remove the starter retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install your new starter.

i just had mine done in a 2000 9.3 today. took it to an auto supply store and it cost me $10.00 and change plus what i gave the kid to do it. you have to unscrew the head lamp cover, remove the pin holding the plug in place and pull straight out as it has a male to female connection ( just like the plug on a lamp). it does not say that in the manual and when i tried to do it myself i jiggled it from side to side so no luck. there are instructions in your manual if you have one. also illustrations. but for the $$ it was worth paying the auto store and the kid. that price was in nj. good luck

Use the right sized screw driver, remove the screws and clips from the panel of the car doors. Pull the panel from the door frame, and remove any wiring connections, and the panel should come off.

try going to mpcdownloads.com they have a great variety of wallhacks and it shows u wich ones are detected or not they also have aimbots and a lot of other cool stuff but u only get like 2-3 downloads per day so that sucks

There was a design flaw in the 95 900SE cable in that there was no provision to adjust the cable...and as you probably have found out, when it inevitably stretches it gets very hard to shift into 1st or reverse without clashing the gears. By the year after, or maybe 2 years after, SAAB changed to a hydraulic clutch design.

I got another 6 months and 6000 miles on my 95 clutch cable by adding a bent fender washer as a "shim" where the clutch cable attaches to the clutch arm coming out of the transaxle. The cable sheath ends and the cable goes thru a curved slot on the arm, and ends with a short metal cylinder that pulls against the arm when you push the clutch pedal down. So I took a fender washer and cut a small slit to its center hole. I also bent the washer into a curve. Then I slipped the washer over the cable between the clutch arm and the metal cylinder. (The washer will be toward the front of the car ahead of the clutch arm.) Once you get it on the cable (with the cable thru the hole in the middle of the washer), you effectively have "shortened" the clutch cable by the width of the washer, between 1/16 and 1/8th of an inch...just enough that the shifting will be like new! I even made some extra washers in case the 1st dropped out or the cable stretched a bit more. (I never needed the extra washers.)

But this is a temporary fix. When I had about 6000 miles on the repair, the clutch cable suddenly stretched A LOT, and then snapped leaving my clutch fully engaged within about 2 shifts of when the extreme stretch started.

So it was tow to a Saab dealer (when there still were Saab dealers) and have a new clutch cable installed. SAAB had put out an advisory that when installing a new cable to use 2 instead of 1 washer (at the other cable end.) The tow and new cable at the dealer cost about $1000.

When I could feel the replacement cable start to stretch about a year and a half later, I sold the car before I had another $1000 repair.

Too bad...the 95 is a great looking, driving, and handling car, whose styling was way ahead of time, still comparing favorably with high end convertibles 17 years later.

Good luck, Paul

A friendly suggestion: if you're going to be performing maintenance on your Saab you may want to invest in a service manual (aftermarket should be fine such as Chilton's or Clymer's). There's also lots of help to be found on www.saabnet.com Good luck with your Saab!

There's an easy way and a hard way. The easy way requires removing more parts.

The hard way (after unhooking the battery):

1. Loosen the four bolts that hold on the water pump pulley. Loosen the air conditioning compressor and remove the belt.

2. Loosen the alternator so you can remove the two alternator/water pump belts.

3. Drain the coolant and save it for recycling. (It's a good idea to change coolant regularly, so as long as you're draining it ANYWAY, why not change it now?)

4. Remove the water pump pulley.

5. Remove the water pump.

6. Install the new water pump and gasket. Torque the bolts to 25 lb-ft.

7. Reinstall the water pump pulley.

8. Install two new belts and tension them. Reinstall, or install a new one, the air conditioner belt and tension it.

9. Open the bleed nipple on the thermostat housing--so long as you're in here, changing the thermostat would be a good idea but you don't have to--and add coolant to the coolant tank (it's on the left side of the car at the rear of the engine compartment) until a steady stream of coolant comes out the nipple, then tighten it.

The reason this is the hard way is the air conditioning compressor is in the way, and it is a grade-a pain to work around it. If you take the AC compressor off the bracket and set it on the cabin air intake (the AC hoses run up to it) then remove the AC compressor bracket, this job is a LOT easier.

You will probably need a Saab shop manual or at least the wiring diagram. The radio wiring is a little different depending on the model year. You will need to remove the left speaker cover to help with removal and installation. During re-assembly, make sure that the rod between the heater valve and the temperature dial on the dash has not become disconnected.

On the left hand side near where the driver's knee (on LHD cars) there is a lever with a black rubber end which will be pointing backwards when the hood is closed. Push the lever down and it should rotate through 90deg. This releases the bonnet main catch. Outside the car, lift the rear edge a little near the left hand corner and it will stop against the safety latch which is about 12 inches from the left edge, towards the middle of the car. Push this forwards and the bonnet can be lifted. Shutting the hood is a reversal, that is do *not* slam the hood, just let it rest down with a gentle push, then pull the inside lever up again and this will clamp the hood shut. If you slam the hood you will damage the latches. [Confusingly, 1993 cars onwards did have a slam shut mechanism, and the release lever in the same place has just a small movement backwards].

When you open the back hatch, you'll see two penny-sized black plastic caps near the brake light. They are on the rear-facing lip that is ordinarily covered by the closed hatch, between the rubber seal and the brake light. Pry those off, and you'll see screws. To remove the screws, you'll need the original tool kit that came with your Saab, because the screws take a six-sided star screwdriver (not a standard hex/allen screwdriver). Once the two screws are removed, pry the tail light assembly out to the side. If it's the driver-side brake light, pry left, for the passenger pry right, because there are metal pins holding the tail light assembly onto the side of the car, and you don't want to break those pins by pulling straight back toward the rear of the car. The brake lights, on the body of the car, take P21/5W bulbs, and the tail lights, on the hatch, take P21. The two are NOT interchangeable...Put a P21/5W in the hatch and it will eventually melt the plastic; put a P21 in the brake and it will be too dim.

On my 1995 SAAB I believe the way to set a radio station button was to 1.Manually tune in the station you want and 2.Press and hold the button you want to store the setting in. Hold the button for a few seconds...when the sound on the radio comes back on, the station is saved and you can release the button. Note if you release the button too quickly rather than saving the new setting you will go to the old setting on the button. Hope that helps, Paul.

The headlight assembly is held in with four bolts: two on the top, one underneath, and one that connects the headlight assy to the turn signal assy. The frame can be removed from the headlight by carefully prying at the adjustment pins. Complete information is on page 351-3 of the Official Saab 900 Manual by Robert Bentley Publishing, which every Saab owner should own.

1st you would need to know if the car is a 93 convertable or sports sedan. If the sports sedan, when you say radio...do you mean the face plate on the dash that you see..this is the ICM...the radio component or the ecm is in the dash...

To acquire the code you will have to contact a BMW dealership and provide them with your vin# and the numbers off the sticker on the back of your radio. To enter the code use the number buttons.

== == Place SAAB in reverse gear to remove the key easily. The SAAB must be in reverse before you can remove the key, otherwise the battery will drain. It's a manufacture design.

REPAIRS BELOW, IF NEEDED:

Though you don't specify, it will be presumed that the key was inserted into the ignition switch and now will not withdraw. There were probably plenty of signs that this was imminent, such as difficulty inserting the key or the switch sticking in the START position. This is because dirt or sticky liquids often fall into the switch due to its location between the seats. (A safety feature, as the key will not jam into the driver's knee in a severe accident.) OTOH, the switch may have just worn out, as a 19 year old car is considered ancient by most terms. (I drive a 1987 Saab 900 with only 196K mi, and it runs better than most cars half its age.) First try squirting a penetrating oil such as Liquid Wrench or WD-40 into the key slot. This may free up the mechanism enough to withdraw the key. If that doesn't work, you will need to remove the center console. Details may be found in any good Saab 900 manual, but in brief: 1) Remove the driver's seat (may need an Allen-head wrench).

2) Remove any screws/bolts holding the shifting machanism into place.

3) Using the special 3-lobed socket, remove the 3-sided nuts that hold the metal box that contains the ignition switch.

4) Clean or replace the old switch.

5) Reassemble.

I changed the oil on my 2003 93 early and was able to reset the oil life indicator by changing the date on the SID to a date beyond the 'days to service'. An option to reset service data then appears . When done simply return date to the correct setting. (to change date press and hold the info select button when date is displayed).

Up to 2003 they are on the passanger side of the vehicle next to the fuel tank. Never models i dont know

saab 9.3 tid sport 2003 - 2007 passenger side forward of rear on side of fuel take NB; this is a canister type not paper element and takes water senesor/drain. changed mine today Sunday 05 2013

Yes, you can tow an automatic transmission Saab, but you must be very careful to tow it without it being "in gear". If that is not possible then it is best to have the car moved on a flat-bed truck, or by raising the driving wheels so that they are on a "dolly". A dolly is a sort of low wheeled vehicle which can have the "driven" wheels of the car sitting on the dolly, and not on the road surface.

Nope. They're completely different.

The 1994 Saab 900 has an engine oriented fore-and-aft. The transmission is in the oil pan. There are a lot of other differences, but for now this is enough.

The 1999 Saab 900 has a transverse engine like most other front-wheel-drive cars, and the transmission is bolted to the end of the engine.

One big advantage of the old layout is the clutch replacement procedure. Instead of having to remove the engine or transmission to get at the clutch, on a classic Saab 900 all you need do is remove a plastic cover.

900S 1993/98 Engine code B2341 Firing order 1 3 4 2.

crash it.

Start by checking the fuses.