The lug pattern for a 1993 Chevrolet 1500 pickup truck is 6x5.5 inches (6x139.7mm). This means there are 6 lug nuts and the distance between each lug nut is 5.5 inches.
Yes, you typically need a title to sell a vehicle, including a 1947 Chevy truck. The title serves as legal proof of ownership and is required for transferring ownership to the new buyer. If you don't have the title, you may need to obtain a duplicate title from the relevant DMV office before selling the truck.
What is the torque for the big ends for Nissan np300 yd25 2.5 2013
If your truck door is stuck and will not unlock or open fully, here are some steps you can try to troubleshoot and potentially resolve the issue:
Check the Locking Mechanism: Ensure that the door is not stuck in the locked position. Attempt to unlock the door using the key fob or the key itself, depending on your vehicle. If it's an electronic lock, make sure the battery in the key fob is not dead.
Manually Unlock the Door: If the electronic locking system is not working, try manually unlocking the door with the key. Insert the key into the door lock and turn it in the appropriate direction to unlock it.
Examine the Door Handle: Inspect the door handle to ensure it's not damaged or loose. If it's damaged, it may need to be replaced. If it's loose, tighten any screws or bolts that secure it to the door.
Check for Obstructions: Look for any obstructions that might be preventing the door from opening. This could include debris, ice, or snow that has accumulated around the door frame. Clear any obstructions you find.
Lubricate the Lock and Hinges: Apply a lubricant (such as WD-40) to the door lock and hinges. This can help if the door is sticking due to rust or lack of lubrication.
Try Gentle Force: If the door is only partially open, gently apply some pressure to it while trying to open it. Be careful not to use excessive force, as you don't want to damage the door or its components.
Professional Help: If the door remains stuck, it may be a mechanical or electrical issue within the door itself. In this case, it's best to consult a professional mechanic or a dealership to diagnose and repair the problem.
Emergency Release Cable: Some trucks have an emergency release cable inside the door panel. If the door is completely stuck, you may need to access the cable to release the door. Refer to your vehicle's manual for guidance on locating and using this cable.
Always exercise caution when attempting to fix a stuck truck door, and do not force it open if it feels like it's resisting too much. It's best to seek professional assistance if you're unsure how to proceed or if the problem persists.
TO install any stereo/cd player all you need is the correct wiring harness and mounting kit. You can pick them up at your local BEst Buy or another store like it. You will also need to locate the main module for the stereo which is under the dash ( can be view if you remove the cover plate under the steering wheel). Disconnect all connections and use a wiring kit to plug them into. The antenna is also on that module and you wil need an adapter. I just did this to my 89 c1500 and it took a while. And forwarning, it is an old truck and things are fragile so be careful not to break anything.
In Chilton General Motors publication #28860. Covers GM pickups 1982-93
This code is on 2004 Chevrolet silverado po. 432 what does it mean or affects on this truck?
You have to remove the intake manifold, you should be able to get to the nine bolts through the wheel well. Once intake manifold is off, you will see the Starter. Two Connection, one Bolt, and one Nut. Disconnect the Battery first. Very Bad Design, and Strater placement. Good Luck.
From the Service Manual Vol 5 of 5
1. Remove the Cluster Bezel by applying parking brake, move shift lever (automatic) all the way down, tilt the steering wheel to full down position, Gently pull rearward on the corners of the bezel from the instrument panel assembly, remove bezel
2. Remove 3 screws
3. Pull out slightly to gain access to connectors
4. Disconnect the wire connectors
5. Disconnect coaxial cable from radio (Non-Digital)
6. Remove radio
Install is just opposite from removal
screw tighten to 14 lb in, don't use paint, lube, corrosion inhibitors, locking compound
Make sure all clips are in place on the bezel
What year? what engine? What transmission?
Need some more info.
Basically though, you need to remove transmission or be able to move it back far enough... remove flywheel from crankshaft end... unbolt and remove rear main seal retainer... replace seal and gasket... reverse procedure.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the engine cover.
3. Remove the engine undercover.
4. Remove the alternator drive belt.
5. Remove the alternator mounting bolts.
6. Remove the alternator from the engine.
To install:
1. Install the alternator and torque the upper bolt to 18-23 ft. lbs. (26-31 Nm) and the lower bolt to 33-38 ft. lbs. (44-52 Nm)
2. Install the drive belt. Properly tension the belt.
3. Install the engine undercover.
4. Install the engine cover.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Yes, the rod caps must be installed on the same rod and in the same orientation.
Contact either Chris Alston at Alston Cassis Works, in California, Art Morrison ent., in Washington State, or Hooker Headers. These 3 companies all make kits for this application, which, when done right, looks sweet, by the way. I helped a guy do one once. Well worth the effort....
You must insert the 5 digit code. If you cannot find the code, then go to the selling dealer. They may have it on file. If not, you will have to remove the radio the get the serial # off the radio chassis. With that serial # the dealer can provide the code. There is no other way.
if tis like a 1995 you need to remove the lower dash panel below the column, the culoumn sleeve that is held on by 2 torx scres from the bottom, then you need a inverted torx sicket to remove to that hold the top sleeve on the column then you can get to the ignition switch
If your talking about the engine cooling fan relay and memory serves me right it is located on the radiator support, inside engine compartment, drivers side, down low. It's probably easier to reach from underneath with vehicle lifted.
8The battery is located under the cover immediately behind the Head lamp assembly remove the three screws that secure the cover and push the 4 tabs on the heat sink looking with the cords running from it. (I have no idea what this is does)you can now remove this larger cover to reveal the battery the tighest space I have ever seen in a GM. Mr Freeman - aka naztyfreeman@yahoo.com
you pull the steering wheel off and underneath you will see a hole with a pin in it. turn your switch to the run position and push the pin up and it should come out
I have a 83 f-150 and replaced all the keys in it. There is a pin below the ign switch you knock out then pull out the key switch. let me know if it helped!
This list is specific to the 1992 Cherokee with the 4.0l I6 engine- hope it helps: loosen and remove the belt(s) Unbolt the exhaust/intake manifolds (there are 13 bolts i think... maybe 15) and discard the gasket- one bolt goes through the power steering mount unbolt the valve cover about 15 bolt unbolt the head (all remaining bolts on the top, and going in sideways from the AC compressor discard head gasket, and clean ALL gasket mating surfaces Put it all back together. MAKE SURE you follow the manual's bolt torquing pattern!!! otherwise you just did a bunch of work for nothing. By removing the head and replacing the gasket.
Within the distributor. Many people [including some auto parts stores] often confuse the ECM with the ICM [Ignition Control Module], which *is* located in the distributor. The ECM in this case is usually mounted under the driver's seat.
It depends on what year. For 72 and earlier (in the dash) follow this. 1. Turn ignition switch to off position and leave the key in the switch. 2. Disconnect the battery. 3. Take a small dia. paper clip and insert it into the small hole in the face of the ignition switch. You will feel a small button that you depress. 4. While depressing the button, turn the key to the accessory position (counter clockwise) and using the key remove the cylinder. 5. You can now remove the bezel by unscrewing it CCW. 6. This will allow you to remove the ignition switch from the dash and disconnect the wire harness plug from the rear of the switch. I hope this helps someone. From an old gear head.
Find the horn and remove the wire going to the horn/s it should have a connector you can seemly slide off however if it dont you may have to clip the wire and tape the end so it doesn't short if it goes to ground. A horn in many states is required your best cure is to fix the problem and to leave the horn alone. , EzForJesus
Because ammeters have low resistance. If you connected them in parallel, all the current would flow through the ammeter instead of the circuit you were trying to test, possibly frying the meter but certainly invalidating the measurement.
You connect a galvanometer in series with the circuit being measured, because the galvanometer is a form of ammeter, although an extremely sensitive one, and ammeters measure the current in a series circuit.