No they do not; having gravel or not is really the choice of the fish keeper as far as how they want the tank to look. You can certainly leave it bare bottomed as many goldfish keepers do to give the fish more swimming room and easier time cleaning the debris from the bottom of the tank each week.

Well, unless you are a mechanic or an advanced hobby mechanic, I would not attempt it. I have done it along with a partial overhaul. The water pump is located inside the timing chain cover. It requires complete removal of the entire intake system including intake manifolds, removal of the oil pan which includes removing the entire steering system and the front differential just to get to the timing chain cover. Then you get to remove the radiator, fan, power steering pump, and crankshaft pully so you can remove the cover. Once off, you can easily remove the water pump. The job basically requires a complete upper and lower tear down. If you are going to do it, I would strongly recomend doing an overhaul while you are at it (with the exception of messing with the heads and pistons, since that is the only thing left once you get in there). Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I wanted to share my pain before someone else got into it. I did complete the job and the car runs nearly new, but it is not a job for the weekend mechanic. I am not a professional, but I consider myself quite advanced and rebuild old motorcycles and cars as a hobby since I was 12, my uncle was a drag racer. Good Luck Scott

On the quad 4 engine the water pump is on the back of the engine. For your application the consensous is that you must pull the timing cover off and insure that the twin cams remain in the same position. Then you remove the exhaust manifold in order to remove the water pump. I got an estimate and the mechanic said he wouldn't touch it for less than $600.

Another site you could log onto is www.Quad4forum.com. These people are quad 4 enthusiates. I hope I have been of service.

First thing that you will need to do is remove the raidiator, making sure to remove the lower water hose from the radiator and all other hoses connected to the radiator.

Next you will need to unbolt your power steering pump and the front mounting bracket and remove all fan belts.

Unbolt the alternator bracket from the engine block and front of the water pump.

Unbolt the fan belt pulley from behind your fan. The best way I have discovered to do this is by placing a screwdriver between one of the bolts and use it as a lever.

You will find 4 10mm sized bolts through the pulley to the water pump.

Once you have unbolted the pulley, you are ready to unbolt the water pump.

You should be able to find the 4 water pump bolts and unbolt the water pump now.

The hard part is to now remove the fan off the old water pump and bolt it onto the new water pump. This is where I'd usually take it to the mechanic and get HIM to remove the fan from the water pump.

Now it is as easy as reversing the previous steps and put it all back together.

Take off your belt. Take off the fan. take off water hoses on pump. Unscrew all bolts on water pump. There are many. Put new pump in the same spot . Put silicone sealer on all of the connecting metal of the new pump. Place the new pump on and bolt it back up again. Wait a while for the silicone to set and dry.

1) Warm the engine to normal operating temperature, then shut it off and drain the coolant.

2) Support the engine with a floor jack and wood, then remove the front engine mount and bracket.

3) Loosen the water pump pulley bolts, then remove the belt and tensioner.

4) Unbolt the water pump and gasket. Remove and discard the bypass hose.

5) Cleanthe water pump mounting bolt threads using a wire wheel and coat them in PTFE thread sealing paste.

6) Reinstall in reverse order using a new water pump and bypass hose.

7) Fill the cooling system with _new_ coolant, then check for leaks.

disconnect battery, drain coolant, remove fan shroud, fan clutch, and water pump pulley. remove water pump, clean mating surface on block. apply RTV sealant to both sides of new gasket, install water pump and torque bolts to proper torque, install pump pulley and torque to proper setting. Remainder of procedure is reverse of removal.

It is possible to remove rusted bolts from an automobile water pump using a product called Liquid Wrench. Spray the solution on the bolts and let sit for a few minutes. If this does not work, wait 8 hours and then use a torch to heat the bolts.

This takes moderate skill and you will want to replace your timing belt and your tensioner at the same time. The reason to replace both of these is that they are prone to failure and you will have them off anyway.

Remove coolant from bottom of radiator petcock. remove shroud and radiator.

remove fan clutch and fan. remove acessory belts. remove timing cover and thermo housing.

you will now see the timing belt going over the idler, cams, water pump and crank pully.

put the #1 piston at top dead center and your two cam pulleys and crank pulley should be at the marks corresponding to the block. mark them loudly anyways so you can see them better. try real hard not to move these three.

loosen tensioner and remove belt. unbolt water pump, cleanup face and install new one.

reverse order assembly. make absolutely sure your cams and crank are in the correct relationship when the belt goes on. It is a good idea to replace the front seal too since you are into it this far.

I left out some minor details but you'll figure it out or you shouldn't be doing this.

On the 2.4L the pump is driven by the timing belt. On the 2.7L it is driven by the timing chain. ON either engine the entire front if the engine has to be taken apart to replace the waterpump.

you best bet from what i hear is to change in throught the passenger wheel well. im about to imbark on this mission my-self too. it seems to me tht you have to take off the pulley's and the alternator and the rest of the pully driven stuff on the front of the engine ( its in sideways so the front of the engine is really the passenger-side). then there is the cover on the front of the engine, looks about 10 bolts, doesnt really seem all tht much trouble. but great cars are theese saturns.

It is a SOB job. There is a plate in front of the fuel pump that has to be removed to get access to the top bolt of the fuel pump. . It has a number of bolts holding the front of the AC compressor and air pump. The Compressor had metric bolts. Get that off and it is not so bad to remove and replace the fuel pump and hoses.

pool pump wiring in what regard? To hard wire or not to hard wire?

My choice would be to NOT hardwire and look at other alternatives to conserving power such as changing the type of pump to a variable speed pump - less draw on your power whilst having the ability for capacity power when you need it for manual vacuuming.

1 Hp is about 746watts. Depending on how effecient your motor is and design of the pump housing, you're looking at 120V at 6.25amps at least. When the motor starts up, the initial load will draw a lot more current. A motor of this size is usually put on a dedicated circuit.

If properly set up with a suitable pump and bladder tank it costs very little for domestic use. No way to quote an exact figure.

Artesian Wells

Lube the gasket with a good quality pool lube like Boss or Magic Lube. Never use vaseline...big mistake.

Its free. Its just tap water mixed with nasty minerals. its bad for you, your better off drinking water from the toilet.

You need to increase your pumps pressure cut off switch. You should go to the manufacturer's website to find the correct pressure area's and how this done.

Gallons per minute, a unit of volumetric flow rate

The issues are very different. Water pumps fail because they start leaking through the front seal. The plugged or non functioning thermostat fails by causing serious overheating of your engine. If it fails open, you get little heat.
Radiators start getting old and you will see that they seem to be ok in cool weather but on warmer days you find the car runs warm. Removing the thermostat does not resolve this issue.
The main purpose of a thermostat is to get quicker heat in your car. Most cars will run with on thermostat installed. If your car still is getting warm, it is a good chance your radiator is plugged.

Water pumps almost never fail in any mode other then leaking. If you take the thermostat out and start your car, you should see coolant movement. If you do, the pump is fine.

When the temperatures stay below freezing for several days the heater will buildup ice and slow the water down. If this occurs then it will get to the point of stopping water flow through the system. When this occurs then you will need to take action and turn the pump off and remove any drain plugs on the pump (2 located either in the front of the pump basket or on the side. The 2nd one is on the housing that is attached to the trap or pump basket either on the side or in front of the housing) The next thing is to remove any drain plugs on the heater. Located where the pipes on into the heater and sometimes on the opposite side. On a Raypack heater you may have to remove the side panel to get to that plug. Next you need to remove the drain plug on the filter. Locations are on the back side at the base or in front of the filter at the base. You may have a pool-weep pump and if you do then you need to take the drain plug out of it located

in front of the pump towards the bottom. Be sure to turn the power off so if you have a freeze protector it won;t continue to run the pump with it drained.