4 barell rochesters used 2 adjustment screws. With the engine off adjust the screws fully inward then turn them out 2 full revolutions. Start the engine and continue turing each screw by a quarter turn in sync with each other until the idle seems correct. If you are advanced enough you can also use a vacuum gauge attached to a manifold vacuum source and watch the vacuum readings while turing the screws. If the vacuum drops too much then you leaned it out too much and you need to go back a quarter turn or until suitable. Hope this helped.
The real answer: First the assumptions. I assume that it is in fact adjustable because you give no date of the carb. If the carb pre-dates 1972 then it is. And I assume the intake manifold is a dual plane intake. And I assume that the car starts and runs but needs the A/F ratio tweaked. If it doesn't start, then set the screws at a base setting of two turns "out". A dual plane intake separates totally the intake runners between cylinder 1,3,5,7 and 2,4,6,8. Therefore 1/2 of the intake manifold serves fuel to the right bank and and the other half to the left bank. Therefore, the adjustment screws need not and should not be turned "in sync". If using a vacuum gauge as the writer above suggests, turn each screw independently for the highest vacuum. Then back-off screw 1/4 turn.
If using a tachometer, the suggested way. Then turn one screw clock-wise for highest RPM (rich condition) and then turn the screw counter-clockwise (lean condition) until engine just stumbles; turn screw clockwise 1/4 turn. Do the same for the other adjustment screw.
P.S. The previous writer is an idiot.
68 Impala convertible
67 GTO
Charlie Linkowich
I have not taken one off a 74 specifically but every one I have done required a Gear Puller. The puller will bolt to the Harmonic Balancer and the center bolt sets on the head of the Crank Shaft bolt. As you turn the center bolt in it will pull the balancer off.
the probable culprit is that the audio drivers are either corrupt or missing. if missing go to the laptop manufacturer's website and look there if not try a google search or even chack out www.driverguide.com Good Luck
First thing to have checked is your battery! See if it is fully charged and holding a charge. Check simple things before moving to more difficult. Check your glow plugs ie( heating plug) weather its working or not if it fails u 'll face this problem. u can check with battery and a wire with passing the current. if the spark is produced in glow plug it works or it does not . any quires let me know
I'm looking for the same answer but mine is for a Plymouth Grand Voyager.... I'm looking for the same answer but mine is for a Plymouth Grand Voyager.... I'm looking for the same answer but mine is for a Plymouth Grand Voyager....
The fusible links on a 1993 Ford Ranger are located throughout the vehicle and primarily in the engine compartment. They prevent circuit overloads and must be replaced each time they are burned through.
could be a few things, first disconnect the fuel line by the filter, have someone crank it and see if fuel comes out. if not its your fuel pump. do the one before the filter first than do the one after. if the first one has fuel coming out and the second one doesnt its the filter. if both do it could be your spark plugs or wires.
i had a faulty diesel injector on my 2.4jtd it had done 110000 miles.
the faults on a diesel are it sounds like a tractor as most new deisels run quite quiet, the engine shakes like mad, very bad mpg, unburned diesel smoke out exhaust when the injector fails and sometimes no fault will regester on the comp when hooked up. mine did not took months to find what was at fault. i also advise to clean egr valve out on routine every 6 months as they are bad for sooting and sticking open.
im not sure the fault on petrol cars but im sure it will also have a missfiring problem and unspent fuel out of exhaust and lack of mpg.
listen for a clacking noise like the piece of plastic u used to put on ur back wheel of ur push bike. mine sounded like a more intense version than that. ford mondeo's are prone to injector faults in there deisels.
running cars on low dirty fuel is a major cause of these problems.
i would say to anyone put injector cleaner in and run high revs aslong as it does not sound too badly damaged it could just be a blocked injector and new injectors are not exactly cheap. mine cost £300 then the labour cost of fitting it
hope this helps for any unlucky people who have this fault.
On all fuel injection motors from the early 90's with fuel injection the fuel pump is located inside the gas tank. Before you try and pull the fuel pump out you need to relieve the presure in the lines. Please use caution. A good repair manual will tell you how to do this job the right way.
It depends on what year. For 72 and earlier (in the dash) follow this. 1. Turn ignition switch to off position and leave the key in the switch. 2. Disconnect the battery. 3. Take a small dia. paper clip and insert it into the small hole in the face of the ignition switch. You will feel a small button that you depress. 4. While depressing the button, turn the key to the accessory position (counter clockwise) and using the key remove the cylinder. 5. You can now remove the bezel by unscrewing it CCW. 6. This will allow you to remove the ignition switch from the dash and disconnect the wire harness plug from the rear of the switch. I hope this helps someone. From an old gear head.
well get out your tools and keep trying sizes until on works
Check at the upper end of the brake pedal undeer dash area
Push and hold the up or down arrow buttons until the digits begin to change. Down is for hours and up is for minutes.
Code 44 indicates a lean mixture at the oxygen sensor and it could be a variety of things from a vacuum leak, a bad fuel regulator, or a bad fuel pump. Also those engines were known for bad distributor shafts. It is best to take it to a mechanic.
In looking over the casting numbers at mortec.com, I was unable to find anything that started with 1101 or ended in 3120. Also, none of them had more than 8 numbers.
Perhaps it is not a Chevy number, or you may not have gotten the number correctly. On a Chevy v8 engine, there is a small flat surface in front of the passenger side cylinder head that contains numbers that can identify the engine and it's original application.
Not hard same block just have to have a 1987 or new heads
A Buckskin shirt with tassels, or fringes.
the only true way to tell is to pull the rear end cover and check the numbers are stamped on the ring gear and on the end of pinion two numbers like 11/41 divide the large number by the lower in this case 3;73 gm used several ratios so hard to say you can get close by jacking up the rear end safely put into neutral. if not a posi block one wheel put a mark on the side of drive shaft turn the unblocked wheel (while watching drive shaft) one full rotation. count the number of times the drive shaft turned if it turned about 3 and a half then3:42,3:50 if 3 and 3/4 times would be 3:73 just over 4 times 4:10 and 4 and a half then 4:56 will give you a close idea Good luck
your transmission may need to be replaced or fixed. WHAT A BONEHEAD ANSWER come on people we need more info to make a hypothisis of what you want to know.is it an automatic?is it a standard?maybe it just needs fluid this is why im not answering many questions.GIVE US INFO!!!!!!!!