The 2004 Chrysler Concorde uses a 12 volt lead acid battery. This battery is a wet cell or flooded cell battery, meaning it contains liquid acid electrolyte that needs to be replenished from time to time. The battery itself has six cells, each producing 2.1 volts for a total of 12.6 volts.

The following points should be considered when purchasing a replacement battery for a 2004 Chrysler Concorde:

• The battery should be a 12 volt lead acid battery.
• It should be a wet cell or flooded cell battery.
• It should have six cells, each producing 2.1 volts.
• It should be rated to meet or exceed the original battery's CCA rating.

The 2004 Chrysler Concorde requires a specific type of battery in order to operate properly. It is important to ensure that the correct battery is purchased when replacing the battery in this vehicle.

It is behind the radiator side engine mount.

You should have the 5.2 engine with your Limited, but some have been ordered with the 4.0. The Thermostat is located on the front of the engine at the end of the Radiator hose. It is between the Alternator, and the A/C Compressor. You might find it easier to remove the Alternator to get to the 2 bolts that hold in the Thermostat Housing. remove them, clean the housing and the surface it sits on, install a new gasket and thermostat and put back anything else you may have taken apart.

The cabin air filter is just underneath the plastic cowl on the passenger side of the vehicle. The cowl is a molded plastic grill at the base of the windshield exterior. To remove the cowl, you must open the hood and unscrew the fragile plastic torx fasteners along the plastic. You may or may not need to remove the wipers depending on the scope of the work to be performed underneath. Be careful not to strip the plastic fasteners when re-installing them. Once beneath the cowl, you will see an additional plastic grill covering the opening to the vehicle air vent system. If your intention is to change the cabin filter, this is where you do it.

The owner's manual shows that there are two screws on the top of the headlamp housing that hold the entire housing to the vehicle. Remove those two screws and then you have to slide the entire assembly out towards the front of the vehicle. This is the hard part as there is a clip that the bottom of the housing slides under that holds it down and you must slide the housing straight back to get it out. It's difficult because the housing is flush with the grill and body work so there isn't much room to grab. Just be patient and don't force anyting as it's all plastic. Once you've removed the assembly, unplug it from the vehicle wiring harness and then take the whole thing inside to work on. - Remove the rubber boot covering the lamp that needs replaced

- Remove the wiring connector

- Remove the metal retaining clip by turning counter clockwise... two small tabs on the clip slide under the two torx screws which holds the lamp in place.

- Replace old bulb with new one being careful NOT TO TOUCH THE GLASS PORTION OF THE BULB.

- Replace clip. This took the longest for me as I have big hands and had to do the whole thing using tools instead of reaching into the housing and doing it all by hand. You'll need a helper to level the housing while you work on the clip.

- Replace wiring connector. *** Test the lighting now before reassembling everything in case you have a bad bulb or connection. ***

- Replace rubber boot.

- Reconnect to vehicle wiring harness

- Slide housing straight back into vehicle, making sure the lower portion of the housing slides under the retainer in the bottom of the opening.

- Replace screws

The water pump itself costs around 60 bucks- however, on the Concordes of that year, it is located internally and the belts must be removed and the timing belt exposed to see where it is, so it's a lot of work to change. I just got finished changing one earlier today =p

If you do it yourself, it will cost 60 for the pump and 10-15 bucks for coolant to top it back off.

It's pretty straight forward. Drain at petcock valve bottom of tank. Remove upper/lower hoses. Top retainer plate (if applicable) Remove fan (if needed for clearance)If trans cooler in rad, there will be (2) hard steel lines pass side tank-remove if applicable & put vacuum caps over to temporarily seal. Pull straight up out of car.

3800 lbs apprx.

3.3L 5 quarts 3.5L 6 quarts

Lucas makes some great additive products. but if I were you and I had those kind of results with any product, I would not use it again. another thought is if I were you and I had those kind of problems consistentaly with my transmissions, I would re-evaluate how I drove and used the transmission.

Yes, fuel pump is locate in tank and must be removed.

No it isn't just access the pump cover in the trunk

Jack up the Concord. Remove the wheel. Unbolt the brake caliper and swing it out of the way. Remove the dust cover for the axle nut. Remove the nut and slide the hub off. Replace the bearings and reinstall.

4

French word

Tie rods, water pump, all air conditioner components,....

You must remove the headlight assembly to get working access to the bulb.

Remove the long top outside Torx screw (T30), and the short one.

Slide assembly forward. Use a very small screwdriver to bend back the 2 locking tabs to release the plug. Slide plug straight out.

Then rotate black plastic collar ccw to release the bulb. Bulb pulls straight out.

When installing the new bulb (9007 series), align bulb notches with housing, push it in, then lock in the collar clockwise. Replace that plug, and turn signal plug.

Avoid touching the new bulb with your bare hands. Also wise to replace the amber turn signal bulb at the same time, while you have access to it.

Most auto stores will check engine codes at no cost to determine which spark plugs need replaced. (Possibly Indicated By a "Cylinder Number # Misfire" Code being Returned.) On my wife's '99 Concorde I reasearched and was told the #1 plug is the farthest forward on the passenger side.

Odd numbers run toward the firewall. (1/3/5 on pass side, 2/4/6 on Drivers Side with #2 being the farthest forward.) The plugs are easy to find, and not bad to remove. Without removing any covers, brackets or supports, you will see 6 ignition coils (one per plug) on top of the engine.

1) Unclip the slide connector that connects the two wires to the coil.

2) Use a T20 (Size) torx bit to remove the two screws that fasten the coil to the block.

3) Lift the coil straight upwards. The spark plug boot, (which you would normally find attached to end end of the plug wire) is attached to the bottom of the coil and will lift off the plug.

4) Using a high pressure compressor, blow out the hole to ensure that when you remove the plug that no debris fall into the block

5) Using a Socket ratchet & long extension fitted with a spark plug socket, loosen and remove the plug. (The socket must be fitted with a gasket to grip the plug, other wise use a piece of tape

It is inside the front of the engine. On the 2.7L it is chain driven. On the 3.5L it is belt driven.

It is inside the front of the engine. On the 2.7L it is chain driven. On the 3.5L it is belt driven.

Hi,

My '94 Concorde problem started exactly as you are describing. A total rebuild & 4 trips back to the shop & it's still not right. Found out that the transmission was replaced with a Chrysler Dealer rebuilt transmission years ago . Talking to the mechanic who rebuilt this transmission, he found out that the transmission was from an Intreped & not a Concorde. Don't know weather you are the original owner but this might help a little. They really had some big problems with transmission.

You need to find out what code is being set, then you can diagnose.

R134a

im an auto technitian and it might be your alinment is off on either sides or both