The cable or wire(s) is loose and need to be tightened.

on v-6 the oil filter is the drain

Dude . . . the oil pan drain plug is near the oil filter on the passenger side very close to the transmission bell housing. Removing the oil filter will drain some of the oil, sure, but if you want to empty the crankcase you will need to pull the drain plug. Check your manual for the correct torque to use when replacing the plug and don't forget to use a new gasket.

There is no drain plug for the transmission pan so this is kind of hard to screw up. Just check your fluid levels after draining the oil if you're concerned you might have emptied the wrong thing. As always, I am not a mechanic and your mileage may vary. .

Two different types, one is held on with clips and the other one screws in. Support the hatch so you can work on it. At the end if there is a clip around the end of the shaft, it pulls off. The shock clips over or rides on a ball. The clip goes 3/4 of the way around the shaft of the shock and locks it to the ball.

If there is no clip, the ends screw out of the side of the hatch and the body. Probably use a 12 mm wrench on most of them. A few do have a mounting plate on the end that should have 2 bolts or screws. If you have the new one for your car, looking at the ends will tell you how to remove the old one.

I am having the same problem with my 2000 GMC Safari. The Service Engine Soon light is on some time. Can any one explain this issue please.

my 2001 4.3 rwd safari gets 18-20 mpg

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Are you using any gas stabilizer while the van sits? Also are you leaving the van with a full tank to prevent condensation? If the tank is not fuel, condensation can form inside and that turns into water in your gas. USe an additive liek Stabil when you park the van and make sure the tank is topped off. Gas will deteriorate over time, just how much time has a lot to do with conditions.

The problem with air flow Thur vents on face of the dash was fixed by repairing the small hard plastic vacuum hose that runs from the PCV valve on the driver side valve cover to a vacuum splitter near the coolant overflow and washer fluid bottles. It gets brittle due to engine heat and cracks or breaks. Your local parts supplier has a soft rubber vacuum

hose that will slip over the line, be sure to inspect the entire line and replace any of it that

feels brittle. 3 ft. of hose $3.00, and about 1 hour time.

weak fuel pump or fuel lines leaking under intake penilum or fuel regulator or injection unit (spider itself) and or plugged injector tubes. (94 safari 4.3 CPI injection)

Presumably you are talking about some country. Please clarify what country you are talking about.

the jack position i would assume if no frame would be on the sides where the unibody meets in front of the rear wheel but i am almost certain there is a frame

The wiper relays in my 1995 Safari were inside the wiper motor housing. They kept going out because water would get into the housing. If you unscrew the front of the cover, you will see the circuits and contacts. YOu can clean the contacts, but the best bet is just to replace the entire thing.

on my 98 safari i thought water was getting into my wiper motor, since the only time they acted up is when it was raining,and they would work - when they felt like it - or when i would flex the wiring connector which led into the wiper motor - called my dealer they said it would be the circuit board, I removed the screws from the cover of the wiper motor which is the circuit board and with the wiring harness still plugged into it i pulled it towards me to reveal the components on the other side, the relay is the first the you see when you follow the wiring into the circuit board, you will see 4 to 5 solder points connecting the relay to the circuit board, these solder joints worked loose, to repair simply resolder adding additional solder.

The boards are releativley cheap at the auto stores, but before spending the money try unplugging and replugging the connectors to the boards.

Pictures currently are not allowed. You can get some from [http://www.themotorbookstore.com/index.html Here].

you may have the wrong sized tire on . ie.. to large or one size to large in height causing the tire to rub the wheel well. check with the dealer to see what size it should be.

You have to drill the guts out of the ignition lock cylinder to remove the lock cylinder.A new lock cylinder will come with 2 keys. The original ignition switch itself is probably okay and reusable.

Have you replaced the bulb. It may be defective.

There is no inertia switch on the GM Safari.

Most likely this is due to a broken vacuum line under the hood. Probably not a rubber hose, but a plastic tube that had dried out and cracked. Mine just crumbled apart and I replaced it all with a hose.

33 ft lbs

Remove the plastic molding covering the inside of the rear hatch. The hole located at the bottom of the hatch (long slot) is where you'll need to insert a flat blade screw driver. There is a pivot point that connects both latches through rods (left and right) on the rear hatch. Cause the pivot point to pivot using the flat blade screw driver and push the hatch outward. The rear hatch should now be open.

i need to take out shatterd glass on my rear left barn doors.and replace with a used glass to save $.where can i find directons?

seriously have somebody else do it and be very happy. I did mine and will never forget my 6 hours of agony will not ever do it again. So many stupid crap that just kills you. pay it's worth it.

I have a 99 Astro that had the same issue. It is a real trick to re-atatch linkage. Once the center handle has been removed along with the two accessible trim screws, you can (with minimal loss of flesh from the back of your hand) reach in and pull on the release to gain better access. The linkage has a plastic retainer to hold it into the latch lever and the broken retainer can be replaced with a suitable clip. (I used one from an RC car I had laying around) Good Luck!

PS- Be prepared to break the original interior trim to get access to the linkage where the rod may fall out. GM bad design! I suggest when you put the new trim in, make access ports so you can get to the problem easier next time. Otherwise you will go through the same problem. Oh, be prepared to sweat and get filthy when you embark on this exercise in futility. I agree with the other person when he said Good Luck; you will need it!

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