Just did this last night! Open the rear door. From the inside of the door look through the crack between the door and the inside of the tail light assy. There you will see two "star" head screws. You need a star screw driver at leat 6" long to reach them. After removing the two screws come around to the outside and pull the lamp assy from the body. There are two clips holding it to the body and it doesn't come loose easily! After removing the lamp from the body the top bulb unscrews from the lamp assy and pulls out. The replacement bulb # is 3157. .

Straight from the dealer, you want to unscrew the light first, then pull it straight out. It might sound light it is breaking, but it is just the plastic pins rubbing the metal. You may need to use a flat head to pry the light away from the body enough so you can get your fingers back there. Remember pull it straight out, and do not worry, it goes on easier then it comes off.

Zero from the factory.

Air tools and PB Blaster.

WARNING: DEATH OR SERIOUS INJURY CAN OCCUR IF MAGNETICALLY SENSITIVE DEVICES ARE EXPOSED TO THE RELEARN MAGNET. MAGNETS CAN AFFECT PACEMAKERS. CAUTION: Never attempt to train more than one vehicle at a time. System is capable of reading tire pressure sensor transmissions from other nearby vehicles while in train mode. Each time a wheel rotation or tire pressure sensor replacement occurs the tire pressure sensors must be retrained. This is necessary to inform the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) that a sensor change was made and the new locations of the sensors. Retraining is accomplished through the EVIC used in conjunction with a Re-learn Magnet, Special Tool 8821. NOTE: Use the following procedure to retrain all five (5) tire pressure sensors. No attempt should be made to retrain individual sensors. # Retrieve Re-learn Magnet, Special Tool 8821. # Press MENU Button on EVIC until "RETRAIN TIRE SENSORS - NO" is displayed. # Press STEP button to select "YES". There is a 60 second timer for training the first sensor and a 30 second timer between training the remaining sensors. If either of these timers expire, the EVIC will abort the training procedure. If at any time the EVIC display reads "TRAINING ABORTED", move the vehicle ahead at least one foot and repeat the entire retraining procedure. # Press MENU button to start retraining. Display will read "TRAIN LEFT FRONT TIRE" NOTE: The order for retraining all five sensors is: * Left Front * Right Front * Right Rear * Left Rear * Spare # Starting at left front tire, place Re-learn Magnet over valve stem. Within approximately 5 seconds, vehicle horn will chirp indicating training complete for that particular sensor. Remove the magnet. # Repeat step (6) on remaining sensors as indicated by EVIC until all five TPM sensors positions are trained. # Once EVIC displays "TRAINING COMPLETE", pressing either STEP, C/T, RESET or MENU button will exit training routine.

If you have the 42RE transmission like I do, there is a picture located here along with a brief description on removing it, it is located on the drivers side right about the transmission fluid pan.

YOU CANT THEY ARE SELF SET.

I have a 2006 lberty and there is a star key type screw on each headlight near te radiator that allows you to adjust the beam up and down. Its recessed just below an opening on top of the light.

key on engine running is 31 psi with regualtor vacuume hose disconnected 39-41 psi key on engine running is 31 psi with regualtor vacuume hose disconnected 39-41 psi

The shifter lights in the 1999 Grand Cherokee is not a light bulb, but rather a thin EL panel.

There are two parts to it, a voltage resistor, and the EL panel itself.

You need to remove the console first. There are 2 screws under the front rubber pad, two under the cup holder, two in the bin. Remove those six first, take the storage bin out, then slide the rear cupholder out, remove the two screws under the cup holder, and one in front of it.

There are a total of 6 flat screws, and 3 self tapping screws you have removed.

Put the parking brake on, shift the tranny to N, and the transfer case to the middle position if equipped.

Remove the entire console. Slide the shifter beezel as far up vertically as you can. There are 4 clips you ned to remove to do it.

You will see a blue and black wire running into the back. Follow those wires to the resistor. You will see a transparent EL panel attached to the resistor by two clips.

Usually, one or both of these clips has come loose, causing the light to work intermittantly. Clip them back on, and turn on the headlights to confirm that the light works correctly now.

Re-install everything in the opposite order.

• If you have air conditioning it's condensation from your AC spilling into your vehicle instead of outside on the ground. It's a clogged line to your air conditioner which has been clogged with debris, leaves and such. A little compressed air should do the trick.
• It might also be a coolant leak from your heater core. It will have a slimy, greasy feel if it's coolant. It will also have a sweet odor. Do not taste - its poisonous.
• Yes, the mysterious water swooshing noise in the dashboard when turning, and/or water leaking under the dash at the passenger side, as well as possibly the heater fan sounding like it's spitting water…there can be only one explanation and this is IT.
• First, let me assure you that all manner of answers from mechanics have been researched and considered, but so far no one has yet answered this satisfactorily in any forum I have come across. Usually it is something along the lines of "coolant leak", evaporator core issues, etc etc but these fellows are missing the vital point…it is WATER not some exotic liquid cocktail usually associated with serious and expensive vehicle problems.
• I own a 1996 Mercury Villager / Nissan Quest which developed this problem after a heavy rainfall. Coincidence? NO WAY!
• I had the proverbial water leak beneath the passenger side dash, as well as what sounded like a bathtub full of water behind my dash swooshing back and forth.
• So here's the deal. These vehicles, like many others have a reservoir above the firewall just beneath the plastic cover at the base of the windshield, which also houses the wiper motor, etc. typically the reservoir collects any water running from the windshield or rain in general. There are two drains one at the drivers side and one at the passenger side. These drains usually work great except when they become plugged with silt, debris from trees shedding leaves, insect matter etc. When this happens, the water simply collects and fills the reservoir with nowhere to go except into the fresh air intake for the cabin heating/cooling system located just above the passenger side glove compartment.
• The water then leaks into the venting ducts and onto the floor. It also stays in the reservoir and sloshes back and forth while driving.
• Any mechanic worth his salt should be able to figure this out and charge you ½ hr labor to remove the plastic shroud and unplug the drains. That's pretty much the extent of it. I did it myself and it took about 20 minutes.
• The wipers have to be removed. There is a release clip at the bottom of the wiper coupling where it meets the drive shaft. Pull it back and lift the wiper straight up and off the shaft. Remove the plastic pins ( they look like slotted screws) along the top of the shroud by turning them 90 degrees and pulling them straight out with some needle nose pliers. Open the hood and remove the rubber seal strip along the edge of the shroud. Find the little plastic holding pins and reach around to the bottom of each pin. You need to compress the little barbs on both sides of the pin to allow it to be pushed up through the hole. There are also 4 plastic push-lock pins holding the bottom edge of the shroud. You will have to pull up on the center (looks like a screw) of each pin and pull it almost all the way out. Then remove the whole pin assembly. A small sharp pair of end cutters works great. Now with a little bit of twisting and careful manipulation you should be able to pull the plastic piece up and out of the way. Start at the corners and pull the piece down and out from under the windshield trim. Then lift it up carefully and move it to rest on the windshield being careful not to disconnect any rubber hoses from the washer nozzles.
• The drains are located at the far edge of the trough in each corner. Use a straightened coat hanger or something similar to poke and clear the drain. Get your garden hose and with a good straight stream of water flush out each drain hole and make sure it is draining. Water will pour out of the rear of each wheel well just under the front of each door.
• Try using a spray of Lysol or other household disinfectant into the trough since it may have had stagnant water for some time. This will kill any bacteria that may have found it a haven for while and ensure that you will not be blowing it into the passenger compartment every time you turn on your blower.
• This happened to me, two huge puddles on my passenger side floor mat twice in one day. I looked up below the dash and found the hole it was dripping from. I found a nearby hose sticking out about two inches that wasn't connected to anything. Reconnected and problem solved. Just a disconnected hose.

I've fixed a lot of fuses. You've just got to pull. The tool they give you might not work, try some needle-nose pliers. Just grab it and pull. Maybe wiggle it a little. Sometimes they're just stubborn.

raise hood. remove grill by removeing black popout buttons along the top. tilt grill foward. remove turning signal bulb. pull on bottom of on side of grill so it unsnaps. remove headlight ring. pull out lamp. remove bulb. do not touch bulb. reverse procedure.

It is inside the fuel tank, part of the pump module.

The windshield washer fluid level is low.

The windshield washer fluid level is low.

On one side of the engine, there will be a cover marked "OIL" or a symbol like an oil can. This is where engine oil is added.

Check the dipstick also valvetrain will be louder if it's run dry and oil light undoubtedly on as well

just found the answer it is mopar frictionmodifier additive

you can't flip the rear seat up. I believe the proper procedure would be to remove or loosen the rear seat using the bolts on the rear floor pan. They might have carpet flaps covering them. Carefully check the rear floor pan. **On an 02' liberty the tire jack is under the passenger rear seat. There is a knob on the front face. Simply unscrew the knob to remove the jack.**

On the gas engines, one per cylinder. Zero on the diesel.

To add to this... This initial answer really helped me out for my 2004 jeep liberty. Let me add a few more details to "give back" to those who helped me out.

I had first taken off the bottom plastic shroud which sits straight up above the floor board

and down below and back under from the the glove box. This was where I was kinda being steered from book I was trying to use to do the replacement of the resistor.

Then I came in and googled and found this pointing me to take out the glove box... from there I saw the resistor mounted into the firewall so took out the two bolts and pulled out the resistor with the wiring harness still plugged in. Then the challenging part at that point was to get the harness unplugged from the resistor. As was mentioned below, it is "non-intuitive" as to how to do this. By flipping over the assembly, you will see a sliding red kind of "latch" which seems to hold the harness plugged into the resistor. I was able to stick a screw driver into the back of that (wiring harness side, not the resistor side) and push it towards the resistor. This seemed to "unlock" things but it still needed some pursuation to finally unplug it.

Also, I'd note that they suggest that you take the negative lead off the battery for this surgery so to prevent any air bag triggering as you are messing around in this area.

Hope this extra detail helps.

I just did this a few months ago. It was pretty basic. You need a new resistor board, first of all. I got mine on eBay for far less than the dealer would've charged. I think there are aftermarket manufacturers of these, so you shouldn't have to pay OEM costs. The resistor device is located behind the glovebox, mounted into the firewall. The glovebox should be fully removed, it will just be a major hindrance if it is left in place. It is fairly obvious where the resistor set is because there is a substantial wiring harness attached to it. This is where my description will get a bit vague because it was so long ago. There are essentially a couple screws/bolts holding the existing resistor unit in the firewall, and there is also some kind of fancy clipping mechanism on the wiring harness. These all need to be removed obviously, and installation is simply the reverse. I remember nearly breaking the harness locking device b/c it was so non-intuitive, but I also think I remember that the lock wasn't essential, i.e. the harness would probably stay connected regardless.

it really depends on the mechanic, between 25.oo dollars and 44.00 dollas.

do it yourself, on you tube.

Jeep does not use inertia/reset switches.

P1494 Leak Detection Pump Switch or Mechanical Fault

Check the vaccum supply to the LDP pump, also check the wiring to the LDP.