The 4.0 Inline 6 cylinder holds 6 quarts with filter change. Not sure about the 4 cylinder.
hi, the four little holes in the front of the stereo are for 2 special tools. they are cheap (i think) and most shops have them around. it only takes 2 minutes to remove with the tools, so it shouldn't cost much to have a shop do it if you dont want to buy the tools. hope that helps
you can get the u shaped tools at walmart for about 7 bucks in the car stereo section wamong the installation kits.
I'll add you insert the two tools until you feel the first click. Then push each tool outwards towards the sides of the stereo which releases the catches. While doing that then pull straight out. The tools are readily available anywhere they sell stereos.
first you have to remove the long cover up by the windshield/defroster vent.there will be two screws behind that cover on top that hold the radio dash cover on.take those out then pull from the top outward.the rest of that piece is just clipped on.once that's off you should have access to the radio bolts.
The all do not have a unitized construction. The Jeep Wrangler is body on frame. The reason manufactures went to unitized construction is lower cost.
The only jeep that had a unibody was the small Cherokee and that had sub frame assemblies mot true unibody. EVERY other jeep has full frames.
go to your local part store an pick up some wheel spacers
The oil sending unit is on the bottom of the engine towards the back of the engine compartment. It's located under and slightly behind the distributor cap, and directly above the oil filter. If you still can't find it take it to a shop because you have no business working on the vehicle. The above statement is true for SOME, not all. The oil sendind unit on my 2002 4.0L is n the sparkplug side not far from where the oil dipstick enters the crankcase. It is nowhere near the oil filter. It is close to the firewall and hard to see. Look for the wire harness.
YOU CANT THEY ARE SELF SET.
I have a 2006 lberty and there is a star key type screw on each headlight near te radiator that allows you to adjust the beam up and down. Its recessed just below an opening on top of the light.
There are 7 pulleys to put it over or under on the 4.0. The ridged side of the belt goes on the ridged pulleys, the smooth side of the belt goes on the smooth pulleys. The ridged side is 'inside' the loop made by the fan. So starting on the left (facing the truck) The upper left corner pulley (AC Compressor) OVER Directly under that, low, the alternator UNDER OVER the fan UNDER the motor INSIDE the tensioner OVER the power steering pump UNDER the water pump Another way to put it: So the two large, center pulleys are the water pump and the motor. It is on the bottom of both of these. The top two on left and right, respectively are the AC Compressor and the power steering pump. it is on top of these. The remaining two pulleys are on the left; a small one low is the alternator which the belt runs on the bottom. The other is the fan which the belt runs over the top. Make sure the tensioner pushes the belt IN TOWARD THE WATER PUMP as you tighten it.
you can buy them from a multitude of on-line sites. Some of the more noteworthy are quadratec.com , 4wd.com , and jcwhitney Good luck with your search
In addition to those sites, you can also find on-line diagrams at Morris 4X4, where you can find Jeep diagrams by model, (i.e. Jeep Wrangler XJ, Jeep CJ7, and so forth).
Hope you find what your looking for,
Thanks,
Check the fan belt it may be tight when cold and causes the whistle until it loosends up when it warms up during use. Can also be caused by the throttle body needing to be cleaned, carbon build up on the IAC motor
It's hard to say without the year, model and engine size. From 1990 on, Cherokees, Comanches and Wagoneers took 4,5,or 6 quarts depending on which engine. the 2.5L engines take 4 quarts, the 5.2L engines take 5 quarts and the 4.0L engines take 6 quarts. I suspect but don't know for sure that the same engines would be in the Wranglers.
Replaced my own on same vehicle. Drain all coolant. Remove lower hose from water pump and be careful not to damage sensor. There is a short upper hose on top of the water pump under the accessory bracket. If you can remove this you are home free but if not it can be a daunting task. I couldn't remove mine and it involved removing the alternator and A/C compressor. I think I might have also had to remove the power steering pump as well to get the accessory bracket off to gain access to the hose.
There is also a metal tube on the right side of the water pump. Disconnect the rubber hose from it and the hold down nut on the valve cover.
Remove all bolts from water pump. PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO EACH BOLT LOCATION AS THEY ARE OF DIFFERENT LENGHTS. What I did was set the new pump nearby and as I removed each bolt from the old pump I put it into the proper location on the new pump so as to not get them mixed up.
The main thing is to take your time and study everything as you dissasemble it. This will make it easier to remember during installation. Write down notes if you have to.
not without all wiring harnesses and computers. also, the fuel systems are different i think...
Take the vehicle VIN to the dealer with proof of ownership. They should be able to cut a new key. If not hire a locksmith to cut a key for you.
I have a 1992 Dynasty with the 3.3 Liter engine. The serpentine belt has a tensioner pulley that is spring loaded... it puts tension on the pulley automatically - if the belt is in place correctly the way it is supposed to go. You probably want to know how to get the belt on or off... I put a box end wrench around the nut in the center of the tensioner pulley. With the wrench over the nut, push back on the other end of the wrench with something long and thin. There isn't much room around that area but I found that a three foot piece of 1 X 4 wood board works well. You should feel the spring tension of the pulley when you push back on the wrench... it will move a couple of inches or so. It might be a good idea to have someone else push back on the wrench while you remove/istall the belt... just easier that way and probably safer too. Anyways, with everything in place correctly, no further adjustment is needed. If you have the serpentine belt off, it might be a good idea to check the idler pulley. The bearings don't last forever... ha! Mine lasted maybe 175,000 miles before it siezed up. The pulley, mounting bracket, new belt and tow truck expense was about $450 at a Dodge dealer. I think the bad bearing did make some noise occasionally before it went out but I ignored it. It finally went out on a cold winter morning on my way to work. Live and learn, I guess. Anyways, try not to ignore warning noises from your Dynasty and it will give you many more miles of fun. Gary... Princeton, MN.
Detonation....Needs to be fixed immediately
It is probably not detonation as stated above, rather a lifter is sticking and needs to be replaced.
Also, the rocker arm bearings can get worn out. As stated above, just replace.
>Both My 4 litre and my old 2.5 litre ticked when cold. As soon as the engine warmed up it went away.
There are two distinct things in these engines that will cause a tick noise and I've had both occur in both engines. Detonation is NOT going to cause a constant tick as you're saying.
1: you have either a sticking lifter or sticking exhaust valve. My 4.0 wrangler does this when it's cold, I've come to the conclusion that it's an exhaust valve because if you give the engine a minute or two to "cool off" at an idle before shutdown, it seems to not tick the next time it's started. This was never a CONSTANT problem, was more intermittent.
2: You have a leaky exhaust manifold gasket. THIS is more likely your tick. I've had this occur on EVERY jeep I've owned. I think this is due to the fact that EVERY jeep I've owned came straight from the factory without nuts on the exhaust manifold studs at the extreme front and rear of the engine. You need to replace the gasket, torque the manifolds properly and install nuts on the nutless studs.
ADDED TO HIS LIST....
3. Worn cam lobe.
4. Crank bearing/seal worn.
5. Pistion walking.
6. dead spark plug
7. bent push rod.
8. bad roter/cap - thus spark plug not dedet.
9. bent connecting rod.
or your timing could also be off.
Or worst thing worst you blew a piston due to your side wall giving away. this is a common problem on older 2.5liters it happens in the number 1 or 4 cylinder mostly due to un-even cooling. Mine happened from a radiator leak that i didn't notice, and my bud's from and air pocket. If your not offroading and or beating it this shouldn't happen.
Whatever it is get it fixed before you need a new enigine.
All jeeps have a light knock but its just from normal rod/value movement.
you need to try and get codes out of the Transmission Control Module (TCM). The lamp in the Overdrive OFF switch is used to signal the various flash codes. To view flash codes, proceed as follows: # Turn ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON finally leaving the key in the ON position. Leave the Overdrive OFF Switch in the normal overdrive (ON) position. # Immediately begin counting the number of flashes displayed by the Overdrive OFF Switch indicator lamp. # Flash codes will correspond to Powertrain Control Module codes in duration and spacing. # A code 55 identifies the end of flash code transmission. And the possible codes are: * 11 No Engine Speed Sensor Signal * 12 No Output Shaft Sensor Signal * 13 No Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal * 14 Governor Pressure Sensor Signal * 15 Throttle Position Signal * 16 Transmission Temperature Sensor * 17 Overdrive Off Switch Circuit * 18 System Voltage Out of Limits * 19 Standby Voltage Out of Limits * 21 Governor Pressure Solenoid Circuit * 22 3-4 Solenoid Circuit * 23 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit * 24 Overdrive Off Lamp Circuit * 25 EEPROM Checksum Error * 26 Governor Pressure Sensor Offset Drift * 55 End of Message If you still get no codes, then we have to explore a mechanical problem inside the transmission. Possibly the overdrive solenoid not venting or a lower valve body malfunction.
it uses a brand by acdelco, and you have to order it from a dealer. its called auto trak 2. if you don't use this specific fluid it will mess up your transfer case, i learned the hard way. and they wont recomend it until you've already had problems , that's how they make their money, good luck, it runs about 6-10 dollars a quart.
You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.
Not to seem smart at all but the first thing I would check would be the battery. If you figure out that it is charged well and it stilldoesn't start then you could try checking the connections on the battery posts or the connections on the starter. Unfortunately i am not much help beyond those steps but good luck.
That's a tough question. I need a little more info. Does it seem to lack power close to 55? does it have power before 55? Believe it or not. But check out your Cataletic converter. It maybe clogged up. Catalytic Converters have like a honeycombed internal webbing inside. When it heats up it sweels. If it is clogged it will sweel up and it will cause back pressure to be forced back into the motor causing loss of power and not going over 55. I would check that first. I good test ,is to start the Jeep and put a peice of paper over the hole of the exhaust pipe. If it sucks in the paper, It is clogged. Hope that helps out some. If you mean that the engine seems to really be racing at 55 mph, that is normal. The tranny only has three gears, and the first two are very short. Third gear can only go so far. Combine that with an engine designed for low-speed operation, and you've got yourself the legendary Jeep of old. At least, that is true with my 87 Jeep Wrangler. 60mph really seems to be pushing the limits of comfort for that engine-tranny combo. Great for low-end torque, bad for high-end speed.
You should start off treating the engine very gently i.e. gentle revs and never more than 1/4 throttle. Over time you gradually use more revs and more throttle until you eventually end up using the full range of the engine. It is important to eventually end up using all the power and rev range to wear harden various parts. It is also important that you do not keep to a single continuous speed or gear but vary your speed quite a bit during this time (a long highway journey is NOT a good break in if you just sit in top gear at a continuous speed). This is because things are still hardening up and you can wear a groove into them.
Modern engines break in relatively quickly, often 1000km, older designs took longer as the tolerances were not as precise. The first oil change is often a lot sooner than later ones as during break in rough edges from manufacturing will be worn off and end up in the oil.
Here is more advice from various contributors:
The 2003 Jeep Wrangler includes 3 yr./ 36000 mi. of roadside assistance.
Yes, they should fit just fine
1995-2006 will interchange.2007-2012 will interchange