Please take it in. You have to take the exhaust crossover pipe off to get the thermostat in and out and you can't get at half the bolts.

You also need to remove the throttle body and will need a new gasket because the old one will crack and fall apart.

Its directly below the Power Steering Pump. You have to take the whole pump off (remove the accessory drive belt also) and then it will be exposed. From there just remove the connector and one bolt and the sensor should come out.

Under the throttle body. Upper radiator hose is connected to the housing

Pry off the small rubber stopper under the steering column. Insert screwdriver or pen far enough to move the lever inside, key should turn and be able to be pulled out.

Yes, I have 20 inch akuza rims with nexen 245-35-zr20 tires.

remove the steering wheel, then the turn signal lever and cam. you will then see a small bolt down in the right hand side of the column, remove the bolt and pull out the ignition switch. GOOD LUCK!

My BCM went out in my 2001 Pontiac Aztec a few years back and i had all kind of problems with it. My engine was idling really high as soon as i put it in park. My mileage stopped counting and most of the lights on my instrument panel were on if not all of them. The car still ran but if the BCM would have completely failed the car would not run. At least that is what the dealer told me. If your car is not under warranty be prepared to spend about 15 to 18 hundred to replace it.

Mine recently went out and it began with the instrument cluster lights flashing on and off, and the gauges going to "off" and then back on. The car performed fine, except for that. If it does totally fail, you will be stranded with a non-running car. I bought mine online (amazon.com, rockauto, brightauto) for $168+shipping. If you're not afraid to do some work, you can remove all the trim around the BCM and take it to a trusted facility and see if they'll let you remove it and replace it, and then they'll just have to program it. Mine let me do this, and charged me $70 for programming. Total of $243, and about 2 hours worth of work. If you are able to do this, take your time removing the trim, there are some "hidden" screws...it can be fragile, I had to repair one piece of mine.

My 2001 came with 215/70-15" Tires, but I wasn't happy with the way they handled, so I put 225/60-R16's mounted on Cadillac STS Wheels on the car, and it drives much better, and looks better with the nicer wheels as well.

Depending on the style you like, many of the GM wheels will fit, as long as they have a 5 bolt pattern (5x4.53in/115mm), enough Offset (40 to 45mm), and Backspacing (5.8 to 6.6") to clear Brake rotors and Body panels, up to an 18" 235/50-18 Wheel/Tire combination.

You can go to www.tirerack.com, and check to see which Wheels will work for you by clicking on a specific Year, Make, and Model, and looking at the sizes of the Aftermarket wheels, to see if they meet the above criteria.

If you just want to stay with the Stock 15" wheel, then try to go with the ta.llest, widest tire that you can fit on that Wheel, say a 225 or 235/60-15, because the car will handle better, and the Tires won't wear out as fast.

Hope this helps.

This link has many helpful diagrams. There should also be one under your hood by the belt labeled Accessory Drive Belt Routing. So if you find the diagram on your car you can match it to the diagram in this link and it will even tell you what to loosen to get the belt off.

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/tec_info/2001/pontiac/aztek/2001_pontiac_aztek_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

Might be a stuck brake light switch its located at the top of the brake pedal

Pontiac Aztek was created in 2001.

The BCM is basically the "brain" of the car. It controls functions such as door locks, windows, radio, dash lights & gauges. It also works with your PCM to manage engine functions.

Mine recently went out and it caused the dash lights and gauges to "go out" and come back on like you just started it up. The engine performed fine, but the dash didn't. While doing this, the windows, radio and door locks become disabled. The "retained power accessory" relay was being switched on and off by the BCM.

If you need one, do a search on "ACDelco 15235418." That is the OEM part number. I got mine (new) from Amazon.com and they are also available from RockAuto and BrightAuto. A dealership will charge upwards of $300 plus labor for installation and programming. Online, I got mine for $173 including shipping. If you can get one online it will save you big $$$. And no, you cannot "reprogram" a used one from a junkyard. Once they're programmed, they're programmed.

Replacing one by yourself is not for the faint of heart. It requires removing the radio trim, console trim (between the seats) and the fuse block. The BCM is mounted to the top of the fuse block. This is all located underneath the radio and climate control cluster on the floor.

Good luck!

Its under hood, fuse space #32, takes a yellow 20amp fuse

very easy, even for an idiot like me. Have a helper is essential for the extra hands. Can be a 10 min job

buy new belt (25 bucks), and buy (or loan) belt tool (autozone loans them for free)

remove tension from belt by pulling pulley towards you. remove old belt re route new belt except except for tensioner, relaease tension and flip it over (heres where the 2nd person helps)

Check out the details on autozone.com

first you must remove the screw on the bottom right of the radios molding. then remove that molding by prying it apart. then there are two screws one above and one below the hand grip located on the front part of the dash remove those screws. next under the steering wheel and above it there is a molding that meets in the middle insert a flat head horizontally and in an upward movement separate the two moldings. next tilt sterring down all the way. and forcefully remove the entire molding that is surrounding the cluster and extends out to that hand grip. next throw it in the back and you now have four screws to remove to complete the extraction of the cluster.

Remove the bolts in the U shaped connections in the front of the engine. Grab your wife, hubby, or friend, park on a flat surface, get behind the Tek and push forward. The engine will rotate have said helper hit the E-brake when the see the engine roll forward. You should have enough room to get behind and change the plugs

In order to replace the spark plugs on the back side of the motor, you must rotate the engine after removing the engine mount strut bolts. There is a special tool (J41131) to hold the engine properly for this procedure.

Disconnect the battery, remove hot wire from alt. Disconnect any hoses in front of coil pack, disconnect electrical plugs at alt., coil pack and move harness to side. remove screws that hold coil pack to bracket. There is enough room to get at the plugs and remove them

......put the car on a rack and go from the underside with a specialty tool. that's how mine were done

Answer #2 - Special tools and engine rotation isn't necessary. Put the front of the Aztek on ramps then set the emergency brake and chock the rear tires. You will be working under the car. Get a 3/8 inch ratchet with a long extension, a swivel, a spark plug socket and a standard deep well socket. Use the spark plug socket for removing the old plugs and the standard socket for installing the new plugs. The spark plug socket has rubber inside that holds tightly to the plug and this will make it difficult to remove from the new plug once tightened due to the limited working space. Progress will be slow and you will rely on feel. Positioning yourself and maintaining position will be somewhat difficult but the work itself is easy.