Get the lamp from your local auto parts store (they were less than $5 here). I'm assuming by parking lamp, you mean the ones (the parking lamp and signal lamp share the same "bracket") low on the bumper below the headlights.

Lights OFF - these bulbs are very hot! Philips screwdriver - loosen both screws on the lens cover and the bracket will the swivel out towards the side of the RAV. At the base, there are 2 cables going in. Grasp the base of the cable and twist slightly (I think it was counterclockwise) and the bulb assembly pops out. From the base of the bulb, pull it away from the assembly and put the new one in. Replace the base of the bulb assembly into the bracket and place bracket back on the Rav and tighten screws (may want to check that they work first so you don't have to loosen screws first)

Almost any 4 cylinder engine will only hold between 3-4 litres of oil.

It's the small toothed wheel that the chain runs over by the rear wheel, although in engineering terms it is any toothed wheel designed for a chain, including the one rotated by the pedal and crank on a bicycle.

In my experience with your hand anda few craftsman sockets and lowring the engine (there is no space for a tool to remove it so losen the engine mounts and transmounts takes about 3 to 6 hours to remove&instal plus a can of beer for me and your famiy (babies tooo)

I recently replaced the entire motor on an SL2 97 and the starter wasn't really a big deal.

It is behind the engine so you will need to first disconnect the positive battery cable.

Raise the vehicle.

The area you will be working in will be a bit tight but workable.

I found that removing the mounting bolts, lowering it gave me easier access to removing the wiring from it.

Reverse for installation.

#2 is an improvement over the first, but here's some additional info:

Two bolts. One is almost inaccessible. I used a 13mm deep well socket and a couple of different length extensions (one 4" and one 2") to reach the two different bolts and remove them.

While it helps to get as much room under the car as possible (I was only able to achieve a little under a foot working height with the ramps and jackstands I had), I also used a socket wrench (Stanley part #89-962--http://tinyurl.com/3587et) that allowed me to _twist_ the handle in addition to using a normal ratcheting action. Without it, I seriously doubt I would have removed the old starter and installed a new one in the time I did, since the working area is very, very constricted.

In addition to the two bolts, there are also the two nuts (referred to in answer 2) attaching the electrical leads. Frankly, I found them to be little trouble to remove before removing the mounting bolts, and my Mitchell's and Haynes books suggest removing them first to acoid damaging them.

Quick tip: working under the car in constricted spaces, keep track of nuts and bolts by attaching a STRONG magnet to the oil pan. Simply drop the nuts, bolts, sockets (and even extensions!) UP *heh* onto the magnet for handy retrieval later.

Still, if you are able to rent bay space and use a lift, the removal/installation would be much easier. Still constricted (and the Stanley tool or its equivalent still HIGHLY recommended!), but standing to work would make this a much, much easier task.

Lower the left,driver side exhaust pipe from the manifold, dont have to take all way out just undo three nuts from exhaust manifold, and three at rear of pipe, slide pipe to rear and possibly drob cross bracket below starter, I didn't have to but makes it easier, then just undo the two starter bolts and two wires from starter, and it will roll out between engine and frame.

It should be in the fuse/relay center under the hood. Remove the fuse/relay center cover and look at the layout on the backside of the cover. You should see a 20 amp yellow mini fuse that protects the radio circuit (marked RDO) the same fuse covers a couple other circuits as well.

Hopefully I am not helping you steal a trooper. It is fairly simple to bypass your key. You will need to remove your center cover from the steering wheel (pry's off of mine). You will see a wire in there with a disconnect plug, disconnect that. Remove the upper and lower covers on the steering column. If you have airbags, ensure you disable them. (Disconnect negative battery terminal and wait 30 minutes). Remove the two screws adjacent to the hole for the key. Remove the bolt for the steering wheel. (Make sure you mark the steering shaft and steering wheel so they go back on the same way). Wiggle the steering wheel off or use a steering wheel removal tool. Remove the pin holding the cable on the right side of the steering wheel, then remove the three bolts holding the assembly to the column. Last thing to do is remove the snap ring holding the lock cyl. assembly to the column. Slide it off. You can use a flat head screwdriver to start the vehicle. You will be able to start it without a key and put it into drive, reverse, etc. Hope this helps. I did it on mine tonight (lost my only key, awaiting new set) and it took me about 30 minutes.

You have to remove the screws holding the dash faceplate. Once you have removed the faceplate, the radio should have four screws holding it in place.You have to pull the ashtray out and there should be two screws behind it also they are there on the 94 and 95. The switches ( hazzard,wipers headlight etc.)can be pulled off no tools needed for those. As far as the dash faceplate you will need a Phillips and a flat screwdriver. Be gentle!!

Master cylinder reservoir should be under the hood at the driver's side firewall

Bad: Rings, Valves, Head Gasket, cam shaft (cam shaft timing) - Cracked Head, Piston, Cylinder -- just to name a few things.

check your tranny fluid first

My 1990 Trooper has a 2.6 L 4 cylinder engine, has 162,000 miles, and has always averaged 23 mpg. 16 city/21 highway.

When Exhaust brake is on squeak noise comes from the engine?"

Change or Replace.

The starter is located on the drivers side of the engine compartment, just inside the rear of the inner fender well. If you are looking to replace the starter it is not a fun job. I read that you have to drop the lead pipe. I took off the heat shield on the wiring harness by the lead pipe and the heat shield on the lead pipe. Then I took off the cross member. Finally I put my jack under the engine and rised it as far as I could. This allowed me to flip the starter and pull it out in reverse. I still found I had to wiggle it. I also shaved a little of my tranny housing of with a dremmel. This was a sucky job, but it worked.

Dave

How do I get the starter out after I dropped it

Chances are the hood sensor on the right inner fender is out of adjustment. Tap the hood and see if it goes off If it does adjust the sensor up

this all applies to my 95 Trooper but according to your references, it applies to a 93 also. I know what WON'T WORK. Pulling the fuse in the left bulkhead will not do it. Glueing the console alarm switch to off will not work. Removing all the wires to this switch will not work. I could find no reference to the anti-theft system in the under hood fuse block. My dome lights arent working--probably the bulbs are burned out. Would replacing them be a good idea to get a test indication? I have an almost new battery. Apparently the alarm sounding draws it down quickly as I could not get the starter to engage without a jump this morning. Even though I got it started, I dare not drive it for fear it will happen in a remote spot.

99 isuzu trooper smell gasoline in the engine compartment

spray it from the inside with wd40 see if that helps...

On the back corner of the transmission pan towards the passenger side a little higher up on the pan is the fill plug. There are two plugs so do not open the one on the bottom because that is the drain plug. You'll need something like a siphon pump to fill into the plug hole. You can get one at walmart for under $10.

rut