This takes moderate skill and you will want to replace your timing belt and your tensioner at the same time. The reason to replace both of these is that they are prone to failure and you will have them off anyway.

Remove coolant from bottom of radiator petcock. remove shroud and radiator.

remove fan clutch and fan. remove acessory belts. remove timing cover and thermo housing.

you will now see the timing belt going over the idler, cams, water pump and crank pully.

put the #1 piston at top dead center and your two cam pulleys and crank pulley should be at the marks corresponding to the block. mark them loudly anyways so you can see them better. try real hard not to move these three.

loosen tensioner and remove belt. unbolt water pump, cleanup face and install new one.

reverse order assembly. make absolutely sure your cams and crank are in the correct relationship when the belt goes on. It is a good idea to replace the front seal too since you are into it this far.

I left out some minor details but you'll figure it out or you shouldn't be doing this.

the light is on for a reason first i would have someone hook up to it with a scanner to find out why it is on. the light could come on by a abs sensor going bad, abs moudle going bad, so you need to find out why it is on, then have them take it out with the scanner. abs is a code and fro some reason it has kicked the light on, so to be safe have it checked out.

After the correct repairs have been done, the light will turn itself off after a short drive.

I just had this problem with my son's 1996 Miata this past weekend. After checking the battery to make sure it had a full charge I tried to start it again. Finally, in frustration, I jammed the clutch pedal nearly to the floor, and the engine turned over. All this time I hadn't pushed to clutch pedal in enough to let the car start. This could be your problem too. It's a start, anyway.

On my 2.2L Auto tranny 89 MX6, The inline fuel filter is on the firewall next to the brake master cyinder (drivers side). It is very easy to get to and change, I wish all cars were as easy! The mx6 shares most of its guts with the ford probe, try searching probe websites and enthusiast clubs. It's not "in-tank" that I know, it's most likely under the car between the tank and fuel rail, but not accessible in the engine bay. More than likely under some sort of cover?? Get your car up on axle stands and trace fuel line from tank to engine and it'll be there somewhere! Hope that helps.

Aout six o'clock in the morning.

sounds like iac or air in the cooling system

There is no pressure outlet to check,you have to buy a fuel pressure gague kit or take it to a shop to have it checked. If you buy a kit you have to unhook the fuel inlet hose and fit it to the gauge to see what the pressure is reading.

MAKE A QUICK PIONT TO YOU! I HAVE FOUND OUT THAT ONE THAT OWNS A MX6 DOSN'T CHANGE TO A AUTO TRANNY. MOST, AND I STRESS MOST MX6-ER'S GO THE OTHER WAY. I'M ONE. THE MX6 IS KNOWN FOR IT'S AUTO TRANNY PROBLEMS. MY MX6 WAS A AUTO, THE AUTO TRANNY WAS REBUILT TWICE, AND REPLACED ONCE. SO NEEDLESS TO SAY WE CHANGED IT TO A MANUAL! I THINK ALL OF THE PPL AT MX6.COM FOR THE HELP. IF I WERE YOU I WOULD JUST STICK WITH THE " STICK ".

Are you High? Automatics Suck. Sell the car and buy a different car if you want an automatic

compression engine for make power up at Mazda mx6 how make it up

there are two methods for this. the legal way; get the road authorities to issue temperary plates until such time until the vechile is registered. the illegal way is to steal someones plates on a dark street where no one can see you and turn your clothes inside out so they cant see your brand of clothes.

I would guess you didn't hook up the remote wire (blue one) and it killed your battery, try jumping it

Hope that helps

Go into a pokémon center, then walk up to the PC. Select the second option. Then select ball capsules.

Where ever the liquid mark is at on the dipstick, determines how empty or full it is.

exp:_____>If mark is between "F" and "E" it's half way full.

Also Have a good close look at the dipstick.Some models have a temp marking on it for cold or hot refills.The top or highest temp reading after driving atleast 15 minutes is the most accurate way.

after removing the dist. cap, the rotor will pry right off....if you are having ignition trouble from the coil or igniter, there is a HEI conversion that can be found at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/633391/8

it looks very interesting, and i will be trying it this summer when it gets warm.

The thermostat is located at the front left side of the engine. follow the radiator hose to the thermostat housing where there are two 12mm bolts holding it on.

Hello, Jamison here, Your car has A hydrolic clutch,, There are A couple of things that will cause your problem, LOW FLUID, BAD master or slave cylinder, And the LEAST likely, Your clutch disc or cover is broken,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Good luck, Jamison.

Open the Dash at the bottom and then look to the bottom left of the relay panel

The eid#...engine identification number is stamped on the engine block it self.....

3 bolts on distributor, take off valve cover

13 mm on distributor

12 or 11 mm on cover

take the breather filter off and look down at the transmissionthe top starter bolt is right there