15mm for top and bottom. Bottom one has a magnetic plug - check it for metal shavings.
Start by removing the plastic protective cover by twisting to the right and pulling off. The low beam light is a small halogen light at the top of the two light clusters. The lower light is the high beam light (part 9005 typically). The low beam light goes into the light casing at the top under the funny dome like structure and is reflected backwards onto the light casing to create the low beam. It's a $12 part usually. One plug, one spring, no tools required for drivers side, 10MM socket to remove airscoop intake on passenger side in order to get to light cover.
Dude, sounds like overkill. There is a button under the dash that you depress and you'll be able to start car. If its OEM equip there's a way to disable alarm and still use remote key. to find button (run left hand down the outer edge of dash where padded dash meets hard plastic - then slide to the right and feel or look around . It may be black and hard to find - its small)
== == == == I also have a 1998 subaru legacy outback with the factory alarm system. The alarm was stuck on. The remote buttons seemed to stop the alarm while the button was depressed but it would continue after the button was released. I was not able to turn the alarm off or start the engine. I tried disconnecting the battery cable, and when it was reconnected , the alarm picked up where it left off. The whole time the alarm sounded muffled and not as loud as normal. We used a jumper battery pack. The alarm got louder when that was connected, and i was able to turn it off with the remote at that point. I bought a new battery and that seemed to fix the problem until today. (about 1 week later) The alarm went off as soon as i shut the car off. The remote button would not shut it off. This time however i WAS able to start the car with the key. I drove it home and when i shut it off that time, the alarm did not sound. Not exactly sure what the problem is. I was parked on a slight hill. Dont think i accidentaly hit the panic button or anything. I'll replace the remote battery tonite, maybe that has something to do with it.
get under the car and do it from there. you will have to put socket in first then the extension, then the rachet. that is the only way i did it. I just got done. On the left side (standing at the front facing the back) remove all of the air intake stuff, 4 bolts. On the right side, remove the washer fluid tank, 2 bolts and 2 connectors. Took me about 25 minutes including new plug wires.
Top front of engine, beside Oil Pump, right above Oil Filter.
The ground clearance of the 2005 Subaru Outback is 0 ft. 8.4 in. (8.4 in.).
The first step to replacing the rear differential bushings on a 2001 outback is to gather the necessary tools and materials. To complete the project you will need a hydraulic jack a ratchet a socket set a torque wrench new bushings and an axle puller.
Once the new bushings are installed and the axle shaft is secured you can lower the car and test drive it to ensure that the differential is functioning properly.
See "Rear Combination Lights" on page 55 of chapter 11 "Maintenance and Service" in your "OWNER'S MANUAL".....
Try checking the brake light switch.
The brake lights are working fine. The running lights are staying on.
The solution was the parking light switch on top of the steering column was in the "on" position. Switched it to off and problem solved. Actually never used the switch, guess one of the kids was playing with it...
Thank you! That was a simple fix - i didn't even know that switch was there!
Assuming you are asking about engine displacement, all 1997 Outback models built in the US used a 2.5 liter engine. That is 2500 cubic centimeters.
The recommended replacement for the Timing Belt (aka Camshaft Drive Belt) on the H-4 is 48 months or 60,000 miles. The 3.0 Liter H-6 has Timing Chains with no Periodic Inspection and/or replacement required.....
The immobilizer is the system that prevents your car from being stolen by including a computer chip in the ignition key. The car will start without this chip but will cease running in a few seconds. Your Subaru dealer is the only one I know of that has equipment to reprogram this system. If it was easily reset there wouldn't be much value to it.
No mention of a block heater in the service manual.
It appears that they install heaters on the left side rear of the engine. Of course this type of heater plugs in to household power so if you have one it should be fairly easy to find the cord/plug and trace it back to the heater.
Well, it depends on what it's doing really. If it's blowing not cool air, it means your out of refrigerant which is due to a leak, and the leak can either be repaired, or you can take a chance that it is a slow leak and just have them recharge it, however you may have to do that every few years or months depending on how bad the leak is.
However, if it is not working at all, it may be due to a bad compressor, or an electrical problem that a car mechanic will have to really dig into...aka money.
its under the drivers side dashboard above the petals (if you have sunroof) there are two rectangles that have fuses in them they just dangle there one of them is for the sunroof one is for the alarm (if no sunroof) then there is only one of them dangling i found that out when my alarm keep going off every 5 min
Not necessarily. I took a look at a supplier and if you have the same engine, the front pipe is the same number. It is very likely that since the car bodies of these two are from the same series first generation Outback, and they have the same engine, the exhaust will interchange.
This information with sketches is available in your owner's manual. If you don't have one Subaru thoughtfully supplies on in .pdf format here:
http://www.subaru.com/owners/resource-center/owners-manuals/search.html
I just looked up this information and it is all there. If your car is equipped with the optional filter it is under the dash on the passenger's side.
Nope, unless you get a wheel adapter.
1998 Legacy/Outback: Bolt pattern: 5X100, Stud size: 12X1.25, Center bore: 56.1