How do aperture and shutter speed affect exposure?
Aperture is hole that shutter creates to let in light to compose your image. The bigger the aperture, or smaller the f-stop (f/2), lets in more light. The shutter speed is how fast the shutter opens and closes. This has a major part to do with the lighting and whether the motion in your picture will freeze or blur. A high shutter speed (1/4000) will freeze all motion but majorily decrease light.
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Try this page for a nice simple explanation, http://www.photonhead.com/beginners/shutterandaperture.php good luck, and good photos!
Aperture (the physical size of the lens opening) and shutter speed together control the amount of exposure, the total light that is allowed to strike the film or sensor. …You'd want the aperture and shutter speed interconnected to control either motion stopping power or depth of field (you have to choose one over the other). For example: given a certain ISO and a fixed light level, assume that you or the camera have metered the scene and the amount of exposure is correct at, let's say, 1/125 second (shutter) at f/8.0 (aperture). Your shutter speed and aperture can be interconnected to get equivalent exposures at 1/250 @ f/5.6; or 1/500 @ f/4.0; or going the other way you'd get an equivalent exposure at 1/60 @ f/11 or 1/30 @ f/16. All the exposures listed are equal , even though they all sound different. The aperture and shutter are interconnected in that, as the aperture gets larger to admit more light, the shutter speed gets faster to limit the amount of time the light is admitted. So why bother? Because there are two other factors involved. One is what we call depth of field, which is defined as the area in front of and behind a subject focused upon that appears also to be sharp. Depth of field increases with smaller apertures (the f/8.0, f/11 and f/16 of the example). So if you're shooting a very tight close-up of a flower, where depth of field is very limited due to close focus, you might choose the 1/30 @ f/16 option, but at that slow shutter with a close up subject you might also want to mount the camera on a tripod. But let's say you're shooting skateboarders at the park. You're focused fairly far away so depth of field isn't terribly important, and in fact you'd want the depth of field relatively shallow to emphasize the skateboarder in the air, where you'd be much more likely to freeze him at 1/500 @ f/4.0. (Remember that these are just arbitrary examples.) On the other side of the coin, you don't want the shutter and aperture to be interconnected when the light level is changing, or the ISO, or both. Your hand held or in camera meter will select a different combination of shutter and aperture for a correct exposure, and if you have the option of controlling both, you can still select for greater depth of field or motion stopping.
Yes. Sensitivity of the film is also a factor in correct exposure, as are the processing conditions, though the latter are less significant as a variable in a very tightly con…trolled repeatable process (as in machine processing of color films under tight certification controls).. A "correct" exposure can be any equivalent combination of shutter speed and aperture settings; for example, an exposure of f/8 at 1/125 second is equivalent to f/16 at 1/60 second or f/22 at 1/30 second.
aperture and shutter speed control the amount of light while iso refers to the sensitivity of the film or sensor to light.
How would you set the ISO for shutter speed and aperture for correct exposure on a rainy day and why?
The ISO speed, shutter, and aperture are all interconnected. There is never necessarily one "correct" setting for all 3. However, if you're not shooting on a tripod, you proba…bly want to set your shutter speed to 1/60 to reduce camera shake. To eliminate grain, you may want to keep your ISO below 400. It may be cloudy on a rainy day, so you may be able to shoot at f/8 or f/11. Of course, on most digital cameras you could select a shutter priority (meaning the camera will adjust the aperture for correct exposure at a shutter speed of 1/60) and then set your ISO to 400. The camera will automatically meter the scene and set the aperture correctly.
When you open up your aperture or change your shutter speed by one full stop you are changing the exposure by?
100%............If for example 1/30 of a second at f5.6 is equal to the correct exposure. By increasing the shutter speed by 100% to 1/60 of a second and leaving the apertu…re at f5.6 would underexpose the picture by one full stop. To correct this you would have to adjust your aperture by one stop to f4. The exposure in both pictures would be correct. However, the depth of field would be different, and anything in that was in motion would likely have less motion blur as well (provided the speed and direction was the same during both exposures).
Each of these directly effect the overall exposure. Aperture adjusts the size of the opening that lets light comes through. The bigger the opening, the more light that hits… the film (or sensor). Shutter Speed adjusts the amount of time that light is allowed to travel through the Aperture. A shutter that is open twice as long lets in twice the light. . ( Thinking of it another way ) Let's imagine water instead of light. To create a correct exposure, you need to fill a bucket with water. You want to fill the bucket to the top without overflowing. Adjusting Aperture is like adjusting the size of a water hose. A bigger hose allows more water to travel through. . f2.8 hose = 8 gallons/minute . f4 hose = 4 gallons/minute . f5.6 hose = 2 gallons/minute Adjusting Shutter Speed is like turning the hose on and off, leaving it open for an exact amount of time. To fill a 4 gallon bucket you can: . use a f2.8 hose for 0.5 minutes . or use a f4 hose for 1 minute . or use a f5.6 hose for 2 minutes If the bucket (your calculated exposure) is not filled to the top, then the image will be too dark. If the bucket is overflowing, then the image will be too bright. The size of the opening and the amount of time it is open both directly effect the outcome.
The lower the film speed the more light (aperture) and time (shutter speed) you need to penetrate the film emulsion that contains the reactive chemicals that produce the negat…ive to get a proper exposure, because lower speed film tends to have a thicker emulsion and more of those chemicals. The whole point of higher speed film is that it has a thinner emulsion, thus reducing the amount of light and time needed to produce the same image, but the typical result is "graining" because there are simply less reactive chemicals in the emulsion. With lower speed film the sooner you'll need a flash to compensate for the lack of light. As an aside, the principle is similar in digital cameras, where the higher "ISO" results in digital graining, called "noise".
The faster your shutter speed is, the more underexposed (darker) your subject/ scene will be. fast shutter speeds include 1/200th of a second, 1/320, 1/400, 1/500, 1/640, 1/80…0, 1/1000 and so on. If the shutter is slower (1/30, 1/40, 1/50 1/60, 1/100, 1/160) it will let more light in. with a slower shutter and moving objects, motion blur will occur, which is why a faster shutter is used to take action shots such as sports, and a slower shutter is used in Modeling photography to capture those vivid colors and lights.
Shutter speed is the amount of time that the camera's shutter (which lets the light coming in through the lens onto the film/chip inside the camera) is open. Aperture is the s…ize of the opening inside that lets the light in. Both affect the amount of light entering the camera to result in an exposure - the longer the shutter is open and the wider the aperture, the more light that is coming in. Aperture also affects the depth of field of the image, so a wide open aperture such as f/2.8 will let in a lot of light and have a shallow depth of field.
Aperture and shutter speed control the amount of light that passes from the lens to the film or digital sensor of a camera. Aperture is the size of the opening within the lens…. The lower the f-stop number (1.4 for example) the larger the opening and the more light is passed through. Shutter speed is closely related. It is the amount of time that the lens is open. The combination of the size of the opening in the lens and the amount of time that the lens is open determine the exposure.
Aperture limits the amount of light that can reach the film (or sensor). The larger the aperture the greater the depth of field (subjects in the distance will be in focus). Th…e smaller the aperture, the more shallow the depth of field. Traditional style portraiture requires a shallow depth of field so only the subject is in focus, blurring out everything in the background. Shutter speed refers to the duration in which the film (or sensor) is exposed to light. As a photographer, you have to find that balance between aperture and shutter speed in order to achieve your desired effect. Generally, the wider the aperture, the faster the shutter speed needs to be.
The shutter affects exposure by working with the aperature to control the light in an image. Shutter speeds vary for as long as you would like the "film" (CCD sensor) exposed …to the light. The longer your shutter is open, the brighter the picture will come out - and your images will be more blurred if you move the camera. The faster the shutter is closed, your images will be darker, and less blurred when moving the camera. Hope his helps!
If you think about your lens like a papertowel tube over your eye. Now constrict the tube so that it is thinner. This is what the aperature ring does on the end of your lens; …it constricts the light flow so that you don't have overexposed images, or helps you to bring out certain colors if you are doing artistic shots. Experiment with changing the aperature in the same setting, you will understand how it works. If you happen to have a non-digital lens lying around, change the aperature off the body, and you will have a perfect understanding how it works.
Well when the aperture is wide enough and shutter speed is not fast enough then there will be enough amount of light for the photo to be taken and looking good enough.
The smaller the aperture, the more light enters the camera and onto the film. Also, the higher the aperture number the better the depth of field.
On a manually-operated camera exposures can be made or manipulated with the shutter speed and the aperture one of these controls the output of the flash do you know which one?
The answer is Aperture. The Shutter Speed does not affect Flashoutput. You can prove this by setting up a camera with a flash in aroom where you can control the lighting. Phot…ograph an object inthe room until you determine the best flash exposure...such as F5.6, F 8, etc. Now that you know the F stop (aperture) that allowsthe proper amount of flash, turn off the room lights so that thereis virtually no ambient light in the room. Leaving your camera setto the correct aperture (F stop), take different exposures bychanging the shutter speed each time while not changing theaperture. You will see for yourself that the flash exposure is thesame with each exposure even if you try one shutter speed at 1/60and another at 1/2 second. The shutter speeds would only make adifference in the overall exposure if there was existing ambientlight...then the exposure would become light or darker depending onthe shutter speed. With a slower shutter speed the scene would bebrighter as more ambient light was taken in, but the shutter speeddid not affect the flash, only the ambient light.