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Good instructions but I just finished and have a few other ideas. The caliper comes off in one piece followed by the caliper arm. The caliper is a 7MM Allen wrench and the caliper arm uses a standard socket, I believe 13/16th. I found that a c-clamp works very well to push the caliper piston back in. Leave on the old brake pad and place the screw end of the clamp on the old pad. Tighten the clamp until the piston is all the way in. This must be done in order to get the caliper and new pads back over the rotor. I had to buy new rotors and they are $35-45 a piece. If you can have them turned it waill save money but will take a couple extra hours. I am not very mechanical at all and I was able to complete this project fairly easy. There is also a very good website that has a few short video clips about changing brakes. It is about brakes in general and not a specific vehicle. It is www.expertvillage.com.

AnswerExcellent instructions!! The only thing I would add is to remove the cap from the master cylinder and place a lint free rag over the opening. This will allow you to push the caliper pistons back into the caliper MUCH easier. AnswerPut a jack under the control arm and lift the tire off the ground. Remove the tire. There are two bolts on either end of the back of the caliper. You will need a hex socket. If you don't have one, you can get them at Kmart, Autozone, or Pep Boys for not too much money. Remove the bolts. Take a screwdriver and pry the caliper forward to release the pads. If you plan to replace the rotors, then you can pry against the rotor face to release them. The object is to get the piston on the caliper to go back into the caliper. There may be a spring clip on the top of the brake pads where the pad meets the caliper. You can remove it easily when you get the caliper off.

Remove the caliper, remove the pads. The pad on the caliper is held in by a spring. Pull the pad out laterally. Usually the new pads will have new springs to hold the pad tightly to the piston. Note: don't let the caliper dangle by the brake hose. I usually put a toolbox or jackstand under them to keep the weight of the hose.

I use a tool to push the piston all the way into the caliper. This will help when you get the new pads on to allow the loaded caliper to slip over the rotor easily. Replace the pads.

I have been replacing the rotors on the last few vans I fixed. Nowadays they are only 20-25 dollars. I get the old ones resurfaced and hang on to them. That is also an option rather than replacing them,if you arent in a hurry to use the van. That costs about 10-12 dollars per caliper to "turn" them. It may take a while for the store to turn them.

Replace the rotor, slip the caliper over it. Put fresh lube on the bolts to the caliper if provided. Push the bolts back into the caliper and screw them back in. I put them in fairly tightly. Check a Haynes manual for torque listing on the bolts. (I just snug them up and give one good pull on the wratchet. I usually havent needed to rebleed the brakes. As long as you didnt disconnect the hose, you shouldn't have to.

I have done maybe 50 brake jobs in my life. They are all similar. Since you are going to save a few hundred dollars doing your own brakes, splurge for a manual. I still read them and I don't need to. Hope this helps.

I found that the caliper will hang on the spring if you turn it over, just be careful not to knock it off. What is the point of the lock washer on the stud, except to hold the rotor in place for reassembly, I hope that is all it is for because it pretty much got destroyed in the disassembly process.

I'll also include a How To video below in the related links section.

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Q: How do you change front brake pads on a Chrysler Town and Country mini van?
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