How do you change spark plugs in a Silhouette?

Answer 1

I take it that we're talking about a 3.4L V6. If this is the case and you are a relatively handy mechanic it's possible. If not take it to the dealer or a good mechanic who can put it on a lift and possibly get at the rear plugs from underneath. If you still want to do the job yourself go out and buy the Haynes Service Manual for your van; it'll cost you about $20 and is worth every penny. The plugs are good for over 100K Mi and if you have less mileage, any misfire might be from some other cause. Look at the front plugs to check their condition, the rear plugs should be the same and are much harder to get at. Here is the short and sweet of it. First you'll have to rotate the engine forward to get at the rear plugs, to do this remove the the air cleaner, intake air Plumbing, and front engine stabilizers. Disconnect the exhaust flange from the engine to the exhaust pipe, from underneath the car remember to use a good set of jack stands on stable ground, when you're working under a ton or two of sharp metal you can never be too safe. Remove the upper radiator hose then put a come-a-long or ratchet tie down strap on the engine lift point and to one of the bolts left after removing the stabalizers, then winch the engine forward exposing more of the rear of the engine. As I remember you'll have to remove the EGR Valve, possibly the upper intake manifold, the ignition coil pack and the canister vent valve which mounts on the back of the coils, getting at these rear bolts is a bear, I wouldn't replace them just put the vent valve on the studs the ignition coil on top of that and let the front bolts hold the ignition coils down, it's worked fine for me for over 100 K Mi. Heed the next step, it's important so you don't have to go through the rest of your life known as Lefty. Before you put your arms behind the engine, double up the tie down strap, if one falls off it'll break and pin your arms behind the engine, safety again. As you can see this is a relatively involved process, more from the number of steps than any complexity. There are many hidden bolts and the manual is essential, number or mark all cables you remove although none will fit any of the plugs except where their suppose to go. Take pictures, and do everything that needs to be done in the back, don't be like me and not change the O2 Sensor trying to save $50 just to have to do it all over again in 6 months. Good luck, be safe 94 It doesn't need to be that much work. I just drove the car up on a set of ramps (good quality plastic ones, not the cheap stamped steel). Then you can reach up next to the exhaust downpipe and remove the three back-side spark plugs. You need to allow about 45 minutes before the exhaust is cool enough to work around, start with the front plugs. Getting the spark plug wire boots off the plugs was the biggest challenge. They tend to seal down and don't want to come free. If I had to do it again (and I doubt I will given the 100k life of the plugs) I'd just replace all the wires too, so there's no need to be gentle removing the boots. Use dielectric grease on the plug boots when you reinstall. Answer: Nightmare! Next time i'd like to cut a hole in the firewall to get to them. This vechical should come with lifetime spark plugs. It can be done with alot of work.