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Symptoms: squealing, groaning, slowing, works sporadically, etc.... Its the blower motor. After I removed it, I spun the thing and groaned just the same.

Sockets needed are 5.5mm for the 5 blower screws; 9/32 for other cap screws if you choose to.

This is not too difficult of a job. First of all, if you have a manual and it says the dash has to be removed, burn the manual. Do not just throw it away, since it is possible someone could go through your trash and end up with this terrible manual. That's just what my service manual said, remove dash and all dash components. About half way through that job, I discovered how simply the blower motor can be removed.

All you have to do is remove the glove box. There is a rubber "rope" attached to the left side of the box that has to be removed, then flex the right side of the glove box inward to allow the rubber stop to pass the framework. Lower the box past it's normal open position and pull toward you. (It's a good idea to take all the crap you keep in it out of the box)

Behind the glove box, in the lower right portion of the dash you'll see the round outline of the blower motor. You are actually looking at a rubber cover over the motor itself. At the top of the motor you'll see the two electrical leads to the motor. One is positive and one is ground. They just pull off. Mine were black and purple. Black is ground. Purple is power.

Now that the leads are disconnected, it might be a good time to check them for power, just to make sure your blower motor is defective. If the motor has to go, then begin pulling the rubber cover off the motor. Just reach behind it and starting working it off. There is a flap along the top that has a notch in it that fits over a peg, sort of like a belt. Just keep working and twisting and it can be removed with a little effort. (yES, THATS FOR 99 AND UP, for 98 and earlier, see below)

Once the cover is removed you'll see 5 or 6 tiny screws that hold the motor in. You'll probably need a socket extension with some sort of flex or u-joint attatchment to get to some of these. With the screws out, remove the motor. You might have to rotate the motor housing to get it past some of the dashboard bracing, but it's pretty straight forward. This is how I did it on my 1999 GMC Suburban, 1/2 ton, 350, 2wd. Other models may be different.

GOOD Luck!

Modifications for 1998 K2500 and earlier.... my Haynes Chilton manual mentioned nothing about the rubber cover... On the 98 and apparently earlier, there are several screws that hold it in place. Two can be removed, both upper right, but don't bother. The boot is hooked over the top and screwed there too... that's why they say to remove the dashboard.

After unplugging the cable harnesses from the ECM and other locations, and disconnecting the black and purple wires from the fan (just pull, there are no clips or keepers) work a utility knife from right to left on the flat section from side to screw hole to purple connector hole to second screw hole to the left side. This boot will wedge nicely back after you are done.

Transfer the screw hole inserts on the old fan to the new fan.

Transfer the black wire connector (undo the screw) as well.

Flexible shaft 1/4 drive for the top and top right blower screws

Good Luck and don't cut any wires! or fingers :-)

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Q: How do you change the blower motor on a 1999 GMC Suburban?
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