How do you convert a stove from propane to natural gas?

Answer 1

Due to differences between natural gas and propane, they require differing amounts of gas supplied to the burner. This is controlled by the size of the opening where the gas goes into the burner. The mechanism for control is called an "ORIFICE," which usually is made of brass, and looks like a short, fat bolt, with a tiny hole at the center of the bolt head. The difference between the orifices for each gas is accomplished simply by varying the size of that hole.

There is a conversion kit that you can buy at the hardware store. It is fairly simple to do.

Typically it involves switching out orifices, which look like a short bolt with a hole in the middle. Take out the old, put in the new.

Answer 2

I don't understand what you mean by "stove." If you refer to a space heater with ONE BURNER AND ONE CONTROL VALVE, then you only have to change ONE ORIFICE. BUT, if your are refering to a kitchen range or cookstove, then you will have to replace the orifice IN EACH BURNER, INCLUDING THE OVEN(S).

To make the conversion, you must install the proper sized orifice for the gas you will be using in the heater or stove. For the sake of simplicity, the following directions are for a single burner space heater. For a multi-burner heater, or a cook stove, make the change at each burner. To change an orifice:

1. Turn off the gas supply STOP valve [valve at the wall, to which the flexible metal gas line ("hose") is attached].

2. Disconnect the flexible gas line from heater inlet [usually on the ON-OFF control valve on the heater].

3. With an adjustable wrench, or an open end wrench, remove [counterclockwise] the heater's control valve. Located on the end opposite from where the gas line was attached, is the orifice [it looks like a brass pipe plug (hex head) with a small hole in the center of the hex head]. It is the size of this hole which determines the rate of gas flow.

4. Two wrenches will be required for this step. Using one wrench on the hex head of the orifice, and another wrench on the hex shoulder of the control valve, unscrew [counterclockwise] and remove the orifice from the valve. I recommend that ANY time you disassemble threaded devices, that you use a wire brush to CLEAN ALL THREADS, which will make reassembly easier.

5. Although not required by Code, apply three or four turns of TEFLON thread seal tape to the "NEW" orifice threads.

6. Carefully by hand, so as NOT to crossthread, screw the new orifice into the valve body as far as possible.

7. Again using two wrenches, tighten the orifice into the valve body, clean the threads of the valve body, and apply a few turns of Teflon tape to those threads.

8. Fully hand thread the valve body back into the cast iron burner, and tighten with a wrench being careful, near the end, to stop when the control valve hand lever is on top.

9. Clean the hose coupling nipple threads on the valve and reconnect the metal "hose" [NO tape is required on these coupling threads].

10. Prepare a "test" solution of a few drops of liquid dishwashing detergent in about half a cup of water. With a paintbrush, whip solution into a bubbly "froth."

11. Turn gas ON at the wall stop, and OFF at the heater control valve, and "paint" the soap froth onto all joints.

12. Watch for new/"growing" bubbles for a few minutes. If bubbles form, you have a leak, and must retighten the joint, or install Teflon tape. If there is NO CHANGE in the bubble layer, the joints are tight and the heater is ready to use.

First answer by Cubswin1. Last edit by Johnny3h. Contributor trust: 506 [recommend contributor]. Question popularity: 87 [recommend question]