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I had to drop my tank due to a bad fuel pump. First, you'll need a socket set with both metric and stardard sockets, and impact wrench is a plus, a 5/16 nut driver and small hands! I did this job with a floor jack and didn't use any sort of ramps. Start by draining fuel from the tank. Mine was 1/4 full so it was managable. Loosen the hose clamps for the fuel filler line and the breather tube. This was not easy and there isn't much room to work. Next, support the tank with a floor jack and a 2x6 scrap about 16-20" long. Then remove the rear and front tank strap held by 1 bolt (5/8 I think). Lower the jack and let the rear of the tank rest on the floor. The hoses may get in the way I had to guide them and bend them to allow the tank to lower. Here is where the fun begins. There is a line running from the rear of the tank around the passenger side of the tank into a box that is positioned on the front passenger side of the fuel tank. Mine had a connection which you could squeeze between 2 fingures and remove. It is the lowest connection on the front side of the box. From here you need to disconnect the fuel line and a secondary fuel line which is connected on the front drivers side on top of the tank. This is done by feel because you can't see it. If you need more room for your arm then you'll have to jack up the rear drivers wheel high enough to get the tank to side back a few inches. You'll need to do this anyway to move the tank around later. The fuel line connections require a fuel line tool from your local auto parts store. You'll need one with 3/8" and 5/16" sizes. Once removed the tank can be slid back and dropped to the floor. The rear drivers side tire must be lifted to allow this. Installation is the reverse and goes much quicker because you know what to expect. This next section pertains to the fuel pump and its testing and removal. The easiest way to test the pump is to turn the car ignition to on, not start, and listen for the whirring sound of the pump. Next remove the 2 cable connectors from the top of the pump which is accessed by removing the 2 bolts holding its protector plate. The square cable has 4 wires going into it. The grey wire is power and the black is ground. Take a tester bulb and push the pointed end in the grey wire slot. Next take the ground alligator clip side of the tester and clamp it to a small nail and push it in the black wire slot. Turn the ignition to on and it sould light for about 3 seconds. If it does your power to the fuel pump is fine! If not, the problem may not be the pump. The pump can be tested by hooking the grey and black wire pins, with alligator clips, to a 12 volt battery. Plan for catching the gas it may discharge. To remove the pump slide the metal hold down disc counter clockwise. I used a hammer and flat screw driver for this. The pump then pull right out thruogh the top. Watch out for the fuel level arm on the pump which stick out the side of the pump. Drain the gas from the pump into a bucket. A new pump cost roughly 280-300 dollars. Napa had it in stock. There are 2 types for the 2001 and they're identified by a 3 letter code in bold type between the fuel line connections. Installation of the new pump is the reverse axcept you'll probably have to change the square connector for the pump to a new flat one. Good luck! It took me 4 hours to get it out and trouble shot the bad pump; I was a first timer. Next time I could do it in 1.5 hrs. It took an hour to put it back in place.

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Q: How do you drop the fuel tank on a 2001 Chevy Surburban?
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