You dont say if the the contractor pulls in ? IDoes it? Three AC servicemen could not repair this same problem last year. These were very experienced servicemen and they had the same problem you have here - if you are stating it correctly. The condenser contactor coil - also called a relay coil is supplied by a 24 volt supply via the thermostat in simple systems. It tells the relay out in the condenser unit to connect the 220 volt feed line to the compressor. That sugger is going to come on. Your facts are wrong or your 220 volts is not on the relay input.
you can probably get away with that just make sure you have an expansion valve on the evaporator. An expansion valve will keep liquid from getting back to the compressor.
Refrigerant is superheated when leaving the evaporator so that the compressor is not getting liquid along with the gas, becauseÊliquid can cause damage the compressor.
Poor Airflow due to a dirty filter,dirty evaporator,dirty blower wheel, bad or weak run capacitor, or even a bad bearing in the fan motor causing it to overheat and shut off on overload while the compressor still runs, thus causing the unit to freeze up. On some systems it is possible that when the thermostat is satisfied and the indoor blower motor shuts off, the compressor could keep running if the contactor is sticking for 1 reason or another. Examples of this would be fireants or ladybugs in contactor or just an old contactor that has burnt points that stick some or all the time after running and getting hot. -Brad75-
A leaky schrader valve cannot corrode evaporator core. You're probably getting corrosion on the outside of evaporator from debris when the blower blows on it
Check your points and condenser. Make sure the timing is right and check if your Cap is bad
Hey Bob==It is quite a job to replace the evaporator. I would suggest getting a manual on your truck if you want to attempt it. Remember after you get it changed the system will have to be evacuated and recharged. Unless you are a pretty good mechanic, I suggest you have it done. Good luck, Joe
If it repeatedly fails you have excessive heat, wrong spec condenser, its getting wet, the voltage is incorrect off the ignition (or magneto if you have one that primitive) or you may have a bad plug wire or coil causing the spark to "back up" into the condenser. ( How it was described to me in the 1960s ) It could also just be wired on the wrong side of the coil or points. Good Luck
I'm taking this to mean "how do refrigerators work?" A refrigerator (or fridge) is a heat exchanger attached to an insulated chamber; it removes heat from the chamber and pumps it outside. The rear of a refrigerator has plates which feel warm - this is the removed heat being released. To understand how a heat exchanger works, recall how cold you feel after getting out of a warm bath or pool; the cooling is caused by the water evaporating. Heat exchangers use a similar principle but with a coolant which boils at a low temperature. The coolant is pumped through two coils in the fridge; a condenser coil which is exposed to the outside air and an evaporator coil which is exposed to the air in the insulated chamber. As the coolant is compressed into a liquid in the condenser heat is released to the outside, in the evaporator the coolant evaporates - absorbing heat from the insulated chamber. A problem with fridges is that the coolant has usually been freon (a CFC), nowadays liquid propane gas is starting to gain favour.
First, you need to have any refrigerant recovered and stored - this must be done by an ASE certified tech in an EPA certified shop by law. Getting to the evaporator is going to be fun, rest assured. You have to dismantle the dash. By the vent next to the passenger door, there'll be a compartment which houses the evaporator and heater core. You'll need fuel line disconnectors to separate the hoses from the evaporator. Bear in mind that you'll also have to replace the accumulator (if it's a Fixed Orifice Tube system) or the receiver-drier (if it's a Thermal Expansion Valve system).
Sounds like the condenser isn't getting enough air flow over it. Maybe your fan its operating properly
If a 1996 Thunderbird is getting spark and fuel, but won't start, there could be a problem with the computer itself. There is also a possibility that the electronic part that replaced the condenser is bad inside the coil pack.
Check the ballist resister on fire wall !!!!