It is possible to solder the hole closed but if it is going to be inside a wall or you dont want to worry about it leaking again cut it and solder a union where the hole was. If it is smaller than 1/2 " you can purchase flare fittings and do the same thing.
(I'm not sure what you mean by "return piping", but this is how I fix pinhole leaks in copper pipes - other than by properly replacing them of course.)
Purchase an appropriately sized (inside diameter comparable to the outside diameter of the pipe to be fixed - does not have to be exact) short length of washer hose and some matching hose clamps. Cut the hose to a length a few inches greater than the area with pinhole(s) and slit the hose lengthwise. Make sure the interior of the hose that will go over the leak(s) is clean and smooth. Clean the copper pipe with steel wool and wipe it with a paper towel or clean cloth. Slip the hose over the pipe, positioned so that the leak(s) are not near the slit. Place the clamp(s) over the hose so that they are located directly over the leak(s) with the small gap at the screw location not over the leak. Tighten the clamp(s) until the leak stops, but do not overtighten as it is possible that the pipe could collapse (though I have never had this happen). All of this can be done without depressurizing the system if you don't mind getting wet! No plumber's compound of any kind is required. I have had these repairs last for years, but don't count on it.
(The proper way to fix leaks is to drain the system, cut out the length with the hole(s), and solder in new pipe, or to replace the whole system with modern plastic pipe as I have done. It is also possible to splice plastic pipe into the copper system with couplers made for that purpose.)
(Pinhole leaks can be reduced if you put an acid neutralizing system on your water source, but that will require its own maintenance.)
Easiest and most efficient way I do it is cut the area out and get some couplings and a nipple and sweat it on, or you can try out some epoxy or this putty stuff they sell at supply houses, I used the putty stuff and it did not work so I just sweated some fittings lol, if your not to good with a torch (map gas preferred) use sharkbite *or equivalent* push type fittings, just be sure you clean the pipe where your using the pushtype fittings, I like emery cloth or a wire brush pipe cleaner, anyways hope this helps,
I'm just an apprentice plumber but I do a lot lol,
Drain the pipe of all water, otherwise you will never be able to heat it to solder or braze.
Then, clean up the area around the hole with sand paper, use a tec screw to widen the hole to about 2-3 mm, get some clean copper wire (the type used on loud speakers) and fold the strands to form a copper plug, then force-it tight into the hole, use flux to cover the plug and surrounding, use a blow torch and solder over the copper plug, wait for it to cool down then cut-off any excess wire.
capillary tube
we put the tube thruogh the ground then take it out
Do you mean 'thermal well'? If so, a thermal well is a tube that is inserted into a process pipe. Then a thermocouple is inserted into the tube to measure the temperature of the process. (Gas, steam, water, etc.)
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A Bourdon Gauge is a pressure indicator, it works with a "C" shaped tube oval in cross section that tries to straighten under pressure. When the tube tries to straighten it pulls on a connecting arm which turns a needle that is against a card that states the pressure. A bourdon gauge lets you know when a stoem is headed your way.It is like a warning tool because it lets you know early so you can prepare for the storm.
Nothing shrinks copper tube.
Copper tube is a favorite choice for plumbing, heating, cooling and other systems. Copper tube is most often used for supply of hot and cold tap water as refrigerant line in HVAC systems. There are two basic types of copper tube, soft copper and rigid copper. Copper tubing is joined using flare connection, compression connection, or solder. Copper offers a high level of corrosion resistance, but is becoming very costly. alliedallcityinc.com
8mm 22mm
The drainage tube for the defroster on the freezer is probably blocked.
Grooved method? Threads on the end of the pipe? There is no tube or pipe in copper with threads. You can end a copper pipe with a connection that is threaded to accept steel pipe.
Try using a tube puller to seal the leak.
can you replace the tube that comes from the garbage disposal if it leaks underneath.
This effect has nothing to do with the magnet sticking to the side of the copper. Magnets will only stick to ferromagnetic substances such as iron and steel, not copper. The actual physics of this experiment is more subtle. The magnet falling down the tube results in a changing magnetic field within the copper tube. This changing magnetic field produces a current within the tube. That current creates a new magnetic field within the tube which slows down the magnet.
easiest fix is to get a tube of silicone sealant and seal where the water is leaking
The dehydrated copper sulfate is grayish-white.
no need to change the copper tube if the capacity of the unit is same.
Best left to a trained gunsmith.