This will depend on the existing roof material. Also, whether you can do it without confronting disapproving neighbors or code enforcement. And, you will want to make some observation of the roof structure below the surface. With basic carpentery skills, a flatish existing roof material, and freedom from disapproving by standers, I would think it not too difficult. A person should think the details through, perhaps coming back to them at another time when reaching a sticking point. The main supporting members of most roof surfaces are either rafters or purlins. Rafters run up and down a roof, (eave to peak). Purlins run across a roof. Once a roof is already sufficiently framed, either will work. In a reroof I might prefer rafter style so any slight leakage would be able to run down and out more quickly. I would probably want to use 2x4 rafters on their sides, rather than standing, each rafter being 24" apart. Although, it would be wise to get an idea of the primary framing your existing roof already has. If it is 16" OC, (on center), you would probably want to put your new wood 16"OC, over the old. The trickier parts to think through would be the top, bottom, and face of your new, secondary roof framing. There are decisions to make at each one of these. Example: Do I want to leave a ridge vent at the top? What kind of eave shape do I want? Vented at the eave, or not? Do I want to extend past the old roof? And so on... Another consideration could be whether you want to put in some reflective insulation or seal the old roof for extra protection. Also, do you want to put more OSB plywood on your new, secondary roof frame, or just leave it bare as long as there is adequate support? For example, if you put 2x4 rafters on their sides, 24"OC-and added cross supports every 2 to 4 feet, then you could probably fasten standard 26" metal roofing well enough to avoid rippling noises. Just make sure you put the cross supports at points that the metal sheets overlap from top to bottom. The 26" roofing sheets are designed to allow side-to-side overlap and remain on a 24"OC rythm pattern. How ever you do it, remember to address the ridge, eave, and face considerations. The face would be where, on some roofs, you can see the profile of the roof shape, or pitch. It's these three places that are most likely to leak in heavy storms and precipitation.
Short answer, yes you can. Most mobile homes (homes built to HUD code) are built with floor and walls and then the roof is placed on top and secured down. So removal would follow the reverse process. However, unless you are planning to increase ceiling height inside; why wouldn't you just build a pitched roof over the other roof. Increase your eaves and incorporate the old roof line in and no one will notice the difference. Don't forget to extend vent pipes through the new roof.
Another thought-
If you have 2 x 2 walls I would talk to someone about whether or not your walls will support the weght of a conventional style roof. My first thought would be no.
Place the new one over the old one and nail or screw the sides together
Can I get help with a metal roof, insulation in walls, siding, & or underpinning on my double wide mobile?
Roofing on Mobile homes appears to be very much the same as on a regular house. I've seen 4-5 done and they do it exactly the same way. -Mine has a 'duroid tile' roof, my neighbor has a metal sheet roof (very expensive,but more long lasting) another neighbor (old logger) did his own cedar shake roof. So I would imagine that doing a vinyl roof would be the same as on a regular home.
Yes you can get solar panels in a mobile home. Remember solar panels are installed on the roof and mobile homes have a roof.
Mobile home roofs are just the same as house roofs. -Mine has composite tiles which appears to most common, my neighbour has metal sheet, another nearby has cedar shakes and at least two nearby have clay tile.
Which metal are you asking about??=Lead coated copper should last over 300 years=
The dimensions are dependent upon the overall size, length and width, of the double-wide mobile home in question.
The clue is " OVER THE TOP OF" metal sinks windows metal roof flashing metal beams The only possible answer is OVER THE TOP OF WINDOWS
In general mobile homes with foundations that are built to withstand high winds will be more resilient than those with metal panels. Mobile homes with foundations typically have a reinforced frame and a sturdier roof making them better able to handle winds. Additionally the foundation of a mobile home is anchored to the ground which helps keep the structure stable and in place during strong winds. In comparison metal panels may be less effective in protecting a mobile home against high winds. Metal panels can be easily damaged and blown away by strong winds. Additionally metal panels are not anchored to the ground so they may not provide enough support to keep the mobile home in place during a windstorm.
A metal tin roof has many advantages over an asphalt roof. Metal roofs last longer than other roofs, do not deteriorate as quickly, and can withstand more extreme temperature changes. Tin roofs are also less work to install, and can even lower your insurance costs.
No
To silence the wind noise on metal roofs
Yes, you can, but it's best to remove the old shingles first.