How do you put together the power steering pump hoes on a 99 Grand Am?

Answer 1

1999 - 2001 Pontiac Grand Am (some newer Grand Ams, Chev. Cavaliers & Pontiac Sunfires also) 2.4 L engines Symptom: Sudden hard steering (no power assist), reservoir is full, fluid in reservoir is not moving with lid off and no leaks to be found. Cause: Power Steering pump shaft going into camshaft breaks at the end in the camshaft and the pump stops turning (loss of power assist). Repair: Get a new pump (I suggest with reservoir if possible), make sure you get 2 new small "o" rings for the pressure line and 1 larger "o" ring if you reuse the old reservoir. This should take 20 - 40 minutes to complete the entire replacement of the pump depending on skill level. Make sure proper safety rules are followed in all cases and if unsure get a professional to do the replacement for you. 1) Remove air duct if needed to clear room to get at return line, pressure line and pump retaining bolts and you may want to disconnect the battery to prevent shorting out things. 2) Get a container (old paper coffee cup) to collect fluid in and position it under the end of the return line (on the drivers side of the reservoir, held by a squeeze clamp). Leave the lid tight on the reservoir till you have removed the return line. Use a pair of pliers to squeeze the clamp and push it down the hose approx. 2 inches. Gently twist & pull the hose off of the stub outlet on the reservoir. Position the return line end upright out of the way to limit the amount of fluid that drips out. With the cup under the reservoir return line outlet open the cap and let the fluid drain into the cup. If cup fills up tighten lid, empty cup into a bigger container (will hold 1-2 coffee cups full) and drain the rest. 3) Follow the bottom steel line coming out of the pump till you see the end that screws into the pressure line going to the Rack & pinion assembly. Use line wrenches (if you have them) to undo the steel line from the pressure line and position it in an upright position out of the way to limit the fluid dripping out. 4) Remove the upper bolt (should be a stud, if it comes out, so much the better instead of the nut only) and the lower bolt (bolt) and the pump should be loose now. Might have to twist it a little but it will pull out of the hole in the end of the valve cover. Note the position of the bracket for the steel line from the bottom of the reservoir that the lower bolt goes through. 5) Turn the pump over and use a line wrench to remove the steel line from the bottom of the pump. Remove both old "o" rings (with a small pick or screw driver) from both ends of the steel line and replace with new "o" rings. If you are reusing the old reservoir, remove clips, remove reservoir (replacing "o" ring) and reinstall reservoir on new pump. 6) Look into the hole in the end of the valve cover and you will see the broken end of the shaft in the hole in the end of the camshaft. Use 2 small flat screwdrivers or picks and pull it out (might try a magnet also). 7) Install steel line back into the bottom of the new pump finger tight at first as not to cross thread then tighten with a line wrench (remember how tight it was to remove) positioning the bracket that the lower bolt holds into place so you can get the bolt through the hole in the pump. At this point I usually pour a little (1/4 cup) NEW p/s fluid into the new pump reservoir and spin the shaft by hand slowly (to lube & prime). It will come out the steel line as you turn so turn slowly. Insert the shaft end of the pump into the hole in the valve cover (might have to twist a little to get the end into the camshaft hole) and twist the pump until the boltholes line up. Start bolts by hand then tighten bolts (remember how tight they were when you took them off) then start steel line into pressure line by hand (as not to cross thread) and tighten with line wrenches (if you have them). Replace return line onto stub on reservoir and slide squeeze clamp back into position. Fill reservoir ¾ full and put lid on loosely (so fluid won't come out). Hook up the battery at this time (if you've disconnected it). 8) To bleed air out, start car and slowly turn steering wheel fully from side to side 3 or 4 times. Turn off car and open lid on reservoir to check level. Top up to proper level and turn the wheel fully from side to side a few more times until most of the noise (from the air in the system) is gone. It may still make some noise for a while (up to a few days) as the air bleeds out. Check fluid level in 1-3 days noting cold & hot lines on dipstick (depending if it's hot or cold when you check it). After you're done cleaning up, make sure there are no leaks at any of the fittings you've taken apart. 9) Reinstall the air intake ducting as you removed it making sure wires, plugs & ducts are secured and you're done.