First thing to do is remove the negative battery connector so you won't be able to short anything out by accident. Then remove the nut under the rubber boot at the upper back top of alternator (it is battery voltage wire and goes over to solenoid on starter motor). Then unplug the connector that is plugged into the top of the alternator. The alternator is usually the most upper mounted accessory that is bolted to a large aluminum accessory cradle attached to the engine block. Since you must access the serpentine belt tensioner, I would suggest removing the upper plastic pad that covers over the upper radiator support and fan shroud. First, remove the air inlet duct from the intake manifold and air snorkel tube. The trim pad over the radiator is held on merely with "push-pin" plastic trim plugs or fasteners to be technical. There is a plastic fastener or two you must remove to unfasten upper radiator hose. Next, you will or may want to remove the upper fan shroud. It is held in by two bolts at the upper radiator support beam (two bolts with 10 mm heads). Then there are about three push-pin fasteners that join the upper and lower half of the fan shroud. Once disconnected you may remove the upper fan shroud by wiggling it and rotating it slightly to get it past the fan. Next, put a wrench on the serpentine belt tensioner bolt located at upper left area of fan belt attachment. Turn the tensioner in toward the fan so the fan belt will slacken. Once the belt is off the tensioner you may release the tensioner (slowly). Look at lower half of fan shroud any make sure it is in the slots with rubber busings to allow good fit when reassembled. To remove alternator remove the two large bolts holding it in to accessory mount. It fits into the mount rather tightly, so you may have to pry up on the alternator by putting a large screwdriver, pry bar, or tire iron between the alternator case and the mount housing. It is doesn't work out, then trying tapping on it with a soft hammer like a dead blow hammer (plastic filled with steel shot). If not equipped you can use a common hammer but do it by placing a wood block against the alternator before striking. Remember, the case of the alternator is aluminum itself, and will not take much abuse. Any mechanic's core asset should be patience, especially when working on tedious parts replacement that may be quite difficult to remove. Once your are at this junction take a break, as leaning over the vehicle's radiator support can cause muscle fatigue in lower back area. I stand on what is similar to an old milk crate except it is constructed of wood. Now, simply work backward from how you took it apart. Caution: Do not accidentily strike the radiator fins, as you may cause your day to turn out badly by doing so. Some folks even tape up a section of cardboard with duct tape to protect it. The most challenging point of this repair may be the serpentine belt routing. There is a decal showing the routing of the serpentine belt on upper radiator support cover. One good thing about the serpentine belt and tensioner--there is no longer a need to wedge some tool as a prying device between the alternator and mount to get proper belt tension before tightening bolts.