First a quick description:
To replace the inner tie rod end first requires removal of the outer tie rod end first. Most mechanically inclined folks can do that. The important thing to know is that if you do not own, or have access to, an inner tie rod end tool don't even start this job. The inner cannot be removed with a pipe wrench, big crescent wrench or even an open end wrench. There simply isn't room to manipulate the tool. If you're prepared with the proper tool, this really isn't a big task. Quite frankly, I'd replace both the inner and outer at the same time, it's no additional work and then you're done with that side for a while. Remember: no tool, no job.
Parts you will need:
1. Replacement tie rod end(s).
2. New inner boot clamp, go for the worm gear (hose clamp) type, you'll thank me later. There are two clamps, a small one one the rod end and a large one on the rack end, the large one is the one you need.
1. Lift the car and place on a jack stand.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Remove the outer tie rod end, frankly it's removal should be obvious to you, if not you're not prepared to continue. If reusing the old outer end take appropriate care during removal to avoid damaging the rubber grease boot. If it rips, buy a new joint.
4. Remove both clamps from the inner tie rod end boot. The outer (small) clamp can almost always be reused, the inner (large) must almost always be replaced. The inner clamp is usually a metal strap that is crimped on, cut it off with care to not damage the boot.
5. The boot has an air equalizing line that runs between both right and left sides taht looks like about a 3/16" metal line. This merely is inserted into it's connection on each boot and should remain on the car when you pull the boot off. If it pulls out don't worry, we'll put it back in place during the reinstall.
6. Carefully pull the boot entirely off of the old tie rod end. Pull straight out, yes it will come off.
7. With the boot removed you'll note a plastic bushing on the inner end. Carefully using a screwdriver push this bushing inward until it comes off of the tie rod end and leave it in place.
8. Now place the removal tool on the tie rod end and remove it by turning counter-clockwise.
Installation:
1. Clean the threads on the end of the rack and pinion.
2. Do a trial installation by just snugging to make sure that when the tie rod end is installed you'll be able to get the tool off. If you can't get the tool off, remove the tie rod end from the vehicle and rotate it in the tool (usually a rotation of the end in the socket of the tool of 180 degrees) and do another test install. This time you should be able to remove the tool.
3. Coat the threads with loc-tite and install the new end using the tool and tighten. Remove the tool and give it the credit it deserves for making this task easy.
4. Install the previously removed plastic bushing back onto the new tie rod end. It's important taht this bushing be properly pulled onto the new tie rod end. Yes, it will pull on. 5. Position the new inner (large) clamp in place now, or if using a worm clamp this can be done later (that's what I do).
6. Install the boot making sure to align the air equalizing line to the appropriate fitting on the boot. If the line dislodged from the opposite boot during dis-assembly, insert the opposite side first.
7. With the boot in place tighten the inner of the two clamps, then install the outer of the two when the boot is snapped in place on the tie rod end shaft.
8. Now resume with installation of the outer tie rod end and finish up the rest of the obvious remaining tasks.
9. Get a front end alignment as soon as possible, you'll be surprised how fast you can scrub the tread off those tires when mis-aligned.
That should do it!
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