The "Related Questions" below tell most of the 'story' for changing front struts on this generation of Taurus.
Fill in the details with a free on-line source of instructions like Autozone's Chilton's Repair Guide.
NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.
The first time I did this one, I 'cheated' with a strut / coil assembly from an auto salvage yard (I was fixing-to-sell) - changing out the coil spring separately isn't the much of a big deal as I learned on later repair jobs. You can also buy new strut/spring assemblies, sometimes referred to as 'ready-mount' or similar.
Detailed ProceduresTIP - I use a good length of pipe to extend my socket wrench in a super breaker-bar for the axle nut and stubborn bolts
NOTE: be safe, use jack stands and wheel chocks!
NOTE: I used pickle forks for years and always destroyed the rubber grease boot and had to replace many otherwise good tie rods - then I "discovered" the Pittman Arm Puller - way cool!
NOTE: This is where I typically use a length of 2x2 wood for extended leverage to push the control arm down and away from the steering knuckle.
NOTE #2: see "Related Question" for the whole story on the lower control arm.
NOTE #3: For 1996-1999 Taurus / Sable, the lower ball joint is a huge huge pain - See "Related Questions" below for more about that sad story
* use a 10mm wrench to hold the strut rod/shaft from turning - and then a 21mm box wrench or crows-foot 'socket' to remove the nut
* Properly re-align the top mount assembly to the body of the strut so the top mounting bolts lineup with the holes when you put it back in the car.
* Don't let the shaft of the strut turn while putting the nut back on - 2 wrenches just like when you took it off.
* Torque the nut to 40-53 ft lbs
NOTE: double-check the splines of the axle are nice and clean - wire brush any residue off - this will help it slide back into the hub real nice
NOTE: there's a groove in the ball joint stud that needs to lineup with the pinch bolt opening - probably didn't move far, unless of course you replaced the control arm
NOTE #2: This again is where the chunk of 2x2 or 2x4 comes in handy to get the control arm low enough to maneuver the steering knuckle into place over the ball joint stud.
NOTE #3: An extra pair of hands also helps cut down the cursing and swearing - helps a lot!
* torque for 1986-1994 models: 23-35 ft lbs
* torque for 1995 models: 35-46 ft lbs
NOTE: embarrassing confession - I got sloppy and didn't get the axle fully inserted back into the hub and it ended up loose! (remember the note about cleaning the axle splines?)
Double-check the axle retaining nut torque
This is one of the most extensive front suspension jobs you can do - so go treat yourself to a large pitcher of "adult beverage" in celebration!!!!
AnswerThis is one operation that I strongly do not recommend you NOT DIY, unless you know exactly what you are doing. The strut assembly has to be disassembled to replace the struts, and the springs on a strut that have to be released are strong enough to hold up the front end of a car, and are under a tremendous amount of tension. If you do not have the right tools and know-how, you can be seriously injured or killed doing it. I have the right tools and have been doing it for 20 years, and I am still fearful everytime I do it. It's dangerous. A loaded strut assembly is like holding a stick of TNT. If you still want to DIY, go invest $20 in a repair manual and use the loaner tool program at your local auto parts store. Also when you get the tools have the counter guy show you how to use the strut spring compressors. The specifics of doing this job are too involved to say here but here is a rough outline: raise the front end of the car by the frame, remove the wheels, unbolt the lower control arm from the bottom of the strut assembly. Disconnect any wires or lines from the assembly. Remove the three 13mm nuts on the top of the strut tower under the hood holding the assembly in (DO NOT REMOVE THE BIG NUT IN THE MIDDLE!), and lower the whole assembly out through the wheel well. Now here is the fun part. Instal the strut spring compressors on the assembly and compress the spring. When you remove the big nut in the middle of the assembly at the top, aim both ends of the strut in a harmless direction, AND I MEAN IT! If the compressors slip, that thing is going to go off like a cannon. If your head is in the way, your head is coming off too! At ths point, reassembly is self-explanatory. After you are done, the car has to get a front end alignment.Taurus sedans have STRUTS that combine the springs and shock absorber/dampers. A skilled home mechanic can remove the struts but it's best to have a shop with a proper strut compressor separate the spring and thedamper section. Taurus wagons have STRUTS on the front, and separate, conventional springs and shock absorbers on the rear. Generally a home mechanic can change these shocks.
replace your struts and springs with new lowered ones
I believe about $800 at least with struts only and plus $400 if you want to replace springs too.
Take off the old ones put on the new ones
Unless you are an experienced mechanic, you should have this repair done by a professional. There is inherit danger when working with struts and coil springs.
S10 dont have struts the have coil springs and shocks
as long as the Taurus has a V-8 it will
From my understanding, there are no springs that will fit the Mark VIII. I had to replace my air bags with springs and Front struts. it's a conversion kit. Check out strut masters. I paid to have the rear springs put on, but did the front struts myself with no help. I jacked the car up, took the olds airbags out then using a jack I lifted the struts into place tighten the three bolt on top. not to tight. This held the struts in place, while I worked dropped the wheel hub. the struts then went right in there. I tighten everything and I was good to go. I saved myself over $300 by doing it myself.
It isn't hard at all aslong as you have patience and alittle know how. Be warned I highly suggest you take the struts once removed from the car to a service center to have them remove the strut from the springs!
If you have worn Struts on a vehicle, those can be replaced without replacing your springs. "Struts" and "Shocks" are often used interchangeably in language, however, I believe your vehicle is a front wheel drive with a double wishbone suspension. In this case, they would be more accurately referred to as "Struts". Just for reference. In either case, the answer is still, yes. Shocks/Struts can be replaced without replacing the springs as well.
You can't. The springs around them need to be removed with a spring compressor and put back on the new struts with the spring compressor if the springs are still good. These springs are under very high tension and if you try to do it yourself you'll get a strut right through your skull! The rear shocks are easy, but for struts, take it to a professional, then it will be aligned properly too.
It's easy.