How do you replace the alternator on a 1989 Acura Integra with AC?

Answer

Obviously, the first step is to disconnect the battery.

You'll need to lift the car somehow (either a lift or proper jack stands) and remove the front left wheel. You'll also need to remove the left half shaft (drive axle) as well. If the car is a 5 speed, the transmission oil will drain out when you remove the axle - if it's automatic, you may lose some fluid, but not much.

Once the axle is out, the alternator is at the bottom of the engine bay near the firewall, on the drivers side. It should have 2 bolts holding them on (I believe they're 12mm). Remove the 2 bolts and disconnect the wires on the alternator.

An easier method would be to unbolt the master cylinder from the firewall and slightly (SLIGHTLY!) push it to the side, being careful not to damage the lines, and removing the alternator from the top. I don't remember if you'll have enough clearance on an 89 to do this or not; I know on 90+ it has to come out from the bottom.

To reinstall, reverse the steps. Don't forget to top off your transmission fluid after you're done.

Answer

on a 91 integra you can remove it from the top by removing the master cylinder.. although i had to remove it completely including removing brake lines from the master cylinder, which required me to bleed the brake lines.. but easier than pulling the halfshaft off

Answer

After reading all the posts on replacing Integra Alternators yesterday,I went with the last two posts for a 1990 Integra GS.However,on my 1989,I could only remove the lower portion shield on the wheel well which is plastic.The upper portion is metal and not easily removed.This gave me enough access to the lower bolt,to remove nut and also to align holes on installation(very tight fit,both for removal and installation).I had to pry the alt.off the bottom bracket and slowly tap it in for installation,then align the bolt hole with a podger or round screwdriver.I was also able to wiggle the alternator in and out thru the bottom after removing the oil filter(killing two birds with one stone as car was on jacks).So I was ablt to do it without removing anything except the oil filter.Hope this helps.

Answer

I was able to remove the alternator on the 89 Acura integra without removing the wheel, halfshaft or mastercylinder. The top adjustable mounting bolt can be reached from above by moving aside the cooling line to the waterpump. The bottom bolt can be reached from the underside. Both Bolts are 12mm and very hard to reach but not impossible. After you have removed these bolts loosen the 14mm bolt holding the sliding mout in place, this will allow you to swing the mount up giving you the cleareance to lever the alternator out of the very tight bottom mount. Afterdisconnecting the alternator you can remove the oil filter and it will just barely fit past and drop out the bottom. It is still a pain but not nearly as much as removing the halfshaft or mastercylinder.

Answer

I removed the left tire and bottom molding to have better access. I followed other instructions to take the alternator out, but what wasnt explained was how to squeeze the damn thing out of the bottom. DO NOT TAKE OUT THE AXLE! It can be done! The oil filter has to be removed for my procedure.

With the alternator coming towards the center of the car, you want the supporting brace on the alternator pointing down, the pulley wheel to the right of the car, and the adjusting hole up. From under the car, coming in from the left wheel, go to the center of the car. Looking up to the oil filter threads, there is the left axle to the right of the space and some hard tubes attached to the firewall on the left. The alternator will have to pass those hard tubes and the axle. It seems impossible, but it is a tight squeeze. There is a small bend in the axle and there is a joint with several bolts on the firewall; the alternator will have to pass between these critical points.

With the alternator coming towards the center, you want to rotate the alternator so that the pulley ends up pointing down and the adjusting hole out to the right of the car. The alternator has a circular cage that will have to rotate between the critical point. Imagine the alternator as a clock, with the adjusting hole at 12; there is a knob on this cage at about the 10 o'clock position. This knob must pass to the right side (of the car) of the nuts on the firewall.

If this is confusing, just remember to rotate the alternator with the pulley down and adjusting hole eventually pointing to the right of the car. Don't be afraid to pull it past the hard tubes, but dont get impatient. The alternator will feel somewhat tight, but be patient and work it through the critical point. If you get hung up, do the procedure backwards with the new alternator.

First answer by Lifeofbean. Last edit by Dannytcuboy1. Contributor trust: 0 [recommend contributor]. Question popularity: 64 [recommend question]