How do you replace the alternator on a 1994 Honda Civic?

Answer 1

Here are some few more steps, in addition to the previously mentioned steps, that could help you in your repalcement:

1. Open the hood and locate your vehicle's alternator.

2. Using your digital multi-meter, check the battery voltage. A dead battery will usually have less than 9 volts. This would not be enough power to start most vehicles.

3. To verify that your alternator is bad, make sure your battery is fully charged and can pass a load test.

4. With the good battery installed, connect your digital multi-meter across the battery terminals with the engine turned off. A good battery should read between 12-13 volts.

5. Start your engine and read the digital multi-meter's output. The voltage should rise near 13.5-14.5 volts.

6. Using an open end wrench, disconnect the battery's negative cable

7. Disconnect the power and ground wires on the back of the alternator paying close attention to where each wire connects. Disconnect the wiring harness connector.

8. Loosen the alternator bracket bolts, and alternator adjusting bolts or alternator belt tensioner so that you can remove the alternator drive belt.

9. Using the proper size socket and ratchet, remove the alternator mounting bolts, spacer (if equipped), adjusting bolt, lower pivot bolt (if equipped), and the alternator.

10. Install new alternator.

11. Using the proper size socket and ratchet, loosely install the alternator mounting bolts, spacer (if equipped), adjusting bolt and lower pivot bolt (if equipped).

12. Install the alternator belt.

13. Pull the alternator until the alternator belt is tight.

14. Tighten the alternator mounting bolts while gently moving the alternator unit to achieve proper alternator belt tension.

15. Reinstall the power and ground wires to alternator. Install the wiring harness connector.

16. Push down in the middle of the alternator belt to check belt tension. If the alternator belt moves more than a half an inch, it is too loose, adjust the alternator belt to proper tension before proceeding to next step.

17. Now that the alternator belt has been installed and adjusted, reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check the battery voltage to verify proper alternator charging.

18. Turn off the engine and recheck the alternator belt tension. Readjust the alternator belt tension if needed.

Disconnect the battery. Then unplug the alternator and take the belts off. Unbolt it. Put a new one back on. Bolt it in. Put belts back on. Plug it back in. Reconnect the battery. Viola! Replaced alternator.

Answer 2

It's very simple but a little hard getting it back in place because of the belt. It will take two people. You can use a socket wrench if it is not in too tight, otherwise you'll need an impact socket wrench. First remove the small bolt on top (it will have an obvious cover that is easily removed.) Then lossen the bolt right in front that is attached to a brace. There is also a pin-like bolt on the side of the alternator towards the top (right by the belt). There may be another bolt on the right side, but I don't recall. Finish removing the front bolt and then work the pin in back out. Once the pin is out you may have to tug a bit to get the alternator out because it's usually in pretty tight. That's it. When you are ready to replace it, you will need to loop the belt back over the pulley and make sure it is lined up on the two pulleys below. You will need someone to push the alternator up to keep it in place while you put the bolts back in. This is difficult because the belt is tight (or should be!). We used an old axe handle underneath to get the leverage needed. Be sure you don't let the handle or other leverage tool rest on your radiator or you might cause damage. It shouldn't take more than 15 minutes to take out and about that to put back in.

• To replace the alternator:

-disconnect negative battery cable; -unplug 3 wire connection on the back side of unit; -carefully pop up plastic cover on the B terminal, remove nut using 10 mm wrench, and lift ring connector from the stud; -break loose pivot bolt using 14 mm socket and flex-bar; -loosen tensioning bracket bolt 14 mm; -loosen 12 mm locking bolt(horizontal one); -remove 12 mm tensioner bot(vertical, long one); -push alternator down and slip belt off its pulley ; _completely remove pivot and locking bolts; pull alternator out of mounting bracket, if necessary,gently pry between bracket and alternator. Installation is in reverse order. Use tensioner bolt to adjust drive belt tension.Torque other bolts to 18 lb*ft

Answer 3

Fairly easy fix for the mechanically inclined. First and safest bet, go down to the auto parts store, and purchase a manual for your vehicle. The alternator has a couple of mounting bolts that you will have to pull off, the electrical conectors have to come off, and once it is all lose, you will have to remove the alternator through the bottom of the car, or pull the engine. most important part is making sure to get the serpentine belt tight when you put the new alternator in. Also, to avoid shockng yourself, disconnect the battery from the wires before you start working on the alternator.

Answer 4

Note that my replacement was a pain. While Ive changed my share of alternators, this was my first Honda, hence while I succeeded, you mileage may vary. The alternator is on the driver side between the engine and the firewall. Take the negative terminal off the battery as a first step. The alternator belt is loosened by unscrewing the adjustment bolt in the slotted bracket above the alternator. Removing a second bolt on the other end of the slotted bracket allows the bracket to be completely removed. This gives a clearer shot at the alternator. You must now jack up the car to get access below the alternator. A long bolt forms the lower pivot of the alternator. The belt will not loosen up until a nut at the side of the bolt closest to the wheel well is removed. In my case this lower pivot was so bound up that I had to spray wd40 along the bolt and then work the alternator with a prybar from the top to loosen the belt up enough to slip off. Be very carefull not to pry against anything that will break. My instinct was to try and tap the long pivot bolt out to free the alternator but it would not move. Chiltons says to instead remove the two bolts which hold the pivot bolt bracket to the engine. One of them comes off fine BUT the second is obstructed by the alternator casting. While it looked like a job for a 14mm box wrench, none of my box wrenches was thin enough to fit in the space over the nut. My solution was to grind down one side of a cheap 14mm box wrench so that it cleared the alternator casting. Take the minimum off of one side of the wrench that will do the job because the bolt is torqued enough to require a piece of pipe or some other kind of extension for leverage. There is a connector on the back of the alternator which is removed by squeezing in on a plastic tab along the side. Keep squeezing the tab and working it out slowly as it may be tight. The main battery connection is found beneath a rubber boot which when pushed aside reveals a small nut which was not a problem to remove. The last bond to the car is a small cable clamp formed by a tie wrap. I simply sniped this although you might be able to unscrew the mount. I was able to wiggle the alternator complete with pivot bracket out in the space beneath the car nearest the tire. Take the alternator to the parts store to make sure the new part matches and has a pully. Update by original poster: It seems to be a common thing that the long pivot screw which connects the alternator to the bracket is a problem. Note that there are no clips or snaprings on the screw although there is an insert that looks like a snapring. In my case the screw was tightly bound by corrosion to one of the inserts. As you work the bolt and apply penetrating oil, it will begin to allow rotation of the bracket. Unfortunatly, you may end up as I did, resorting to brute force to pound the screw out. The threaded end of the screw may not survive the blows required for removal. If your alternator pivot bolt requires this kind of pursuasion, you may as well be resigned to buying a new one.

Answer 5

i replaced alt batt and some fuses my 91 accord lx will not stay charge over 10.60 volts what is the problem