How do you replace the alternator on a 1998 Ford Contour V6?

Answer

1 Remove cable from negative terminal on battery. 2 Release pressure from the tensioner and remove serpentine belt. 3 Remove bolts and unplug electrical wiring.

Reverse process to install the entire job should take 30 minutes.

^^^^^^^THE ABOVE IS INCORRECT ^^^^^^^ FOLLOW UP TO THIS ANSWER BY MPK944 YES, make sure that the MAXIFUSE is ok by taking the 4 bolts off the coil pack at the rear of the engine by the firewall. Under the coil pack is the maxifuse with red coverings on either end and a black plasctic center. A bad maxifuse will have the same symptoms as a bad alternator...but cheaper to fix! Just ohm it with a volt meter. To remove an alternator from a 1995/6/7/8 Ford Contour 6 cylinder, you have to remove the pass. side tire and splash-shield. Remove the neg. cable from the battery and lay it so accidental contact can not happen. Remove the belt with a 3/8ths drive ratchet (no socket). This entire REMOVAL process will take around 3-4.5 hours. At this point take heart, you will have to reach behind the alternator and remove the lower retaining mount bolt with a 13mm socket. You can help it at first by twisting the end of the bolt with your thumb and index finger...just twist as you turning the ratchet. It would prove advantegeous to have a 3/8ths ratchet with swivel head here. Although, you will only be able to turn the ratchet one "click" at a time. Once you get that bolt going, it wont be long before you can twist it out by the head with the very tips of your fingers. Yes, there is absolutely no room for reaching your entire hand back there. After nearly an hour working the first bolt out, you will have to start the upper second bolt. This is where it gets really time consuming. But, do not give up. You are doing it for free while shops DO WANT 500.00 for the job! Now, I used 1/4" drive ratchet and a 13mm socket to crack it free by reaching from the firewall (insulation is scrtchy on the hand) and attaching the ratchet/socket to the bolt head and inserting a bar from the bottom to push the end of the ratchet up. That cracked it free. Then, swith sockets to a 1/2" socket....this size will keep the socket on the head a little more snuggly while you use your finger tips to ratchet. EVENTUALLY, the bolt will surcome to your powers. Just when you think your done.... On the back of the alternator, Ford Engineers thought it would be hilarious to attach a 90 degree bracket with a 10mm bolt that fixes to the alternator casing and frame. Just remove the 10mm bolt that goes into the alternator from the bottom of the car. Now the easy part. There is a sway bar drop link there in the way. You will need a 17mm open-end wrench and socket. Affix the wrench to the back side of the TOP of the link and lossen the bolt. After the link is outta the way, you can grab a crow bar or large flat head screwdriver and pry the alternator out of its bracket. Once its down, you can turn it almost all the way around and take off the electrical connections. Here you will find 3 wire connections: One is the main return covered by a red boot...lift the boot and there you will find a 10mm nut to loosen. Next there will be a funky connector that resembles a fuel injector connection...push the wire retainer in while pulling the connector body out. Finally, you will have a single wire connector on the side of the alternator body that you will unclip and remove. Now that the alternator is free to come out, you will have many variations of ways in which to extract it from that small space. Its just a matter of trial and error. I found it relaxing to remove it from the left hand side of the strut instead of forward the strut. Dont worry it'll come out. As far as putting it back in....ugh. Just reverse the removal. NOTE: I aslo found it rather therapeutic to curse the Ford Engineers all during this process. I am a Porsche and Chevrolet guy and did this fix for my sister all while swearing that I will NEVER own a FORD. Have fun Fellas! -MPK944 YOUR WELCOME!

Answer

I looked at mine once (1995 model) while doing something else. If the answer provided is true, you're lucky because I'd swear you'd have to drop the engine sub frame on my car. Even after removing the right side wheel-well plastic liner and belt shroud that covers the AC/serpentine belt, I'd bet dollars to doughnuts that you'd never get it out past the exhaust, steering rack and sub frame. Not to mention that the alternator pivot bolt head faces the inside of the engine compartment. Methinks the answer you got refers to a 4 cylinder model.

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I've also read somewhere that the 95 V6 version requires removing the passenger driver axle....FYI

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Just had the alternator replaced on my 1998 Contour, six cylinder. The belt was replaced, also the idler pulley do to worn bearings. The passenger side axel had to be replaced, the threads where damaged in the removal process. I saw a connection rod was also taken loose. All this just to get to the alternator. "It's just a better idea" Total cost was very near 500.00. I have found that most any repair on the contour has been expensive. Parts seem to be a bit scarse.

First answer by anonymous. Last edit by Mpk944. Contributor trust: 59 [recommend contributor]. Question popularity: 90 [recommend question]