How do you replace the front wheel bearing on a 2003 Ford Escape?

Answer 1

(The Ford engineer who selected the mounting location for the alternator on the escape, should be fired, just like the engineer who designed the gear shifter knob on the 2001. This is a terrible design for maintenance) model)->(Joke) I've just started this on my 2001/2006 V6 Escape. I came searching to the internet to help me complete the job. I found and improved this information. I want to thank all those who put this information here because without it I would have gotten stuck doing this job. I hope this helps everyone who reads it and can save money. This is what I know/have done so far: 1. With the vehicle up on ramps and stands, the tires blocked, and the front wheel removed, you can now remove the black plastic splash shield from underneath the right side of the engine. It's held on by about 5 M8 bolts, and one Phillips head screw. Be careful the front M8 bolt may be rusted and break. 2. Remove the serpentine belt. With the cover off, from underneath you can put a 1/2" drive socket into the tensioner pulley, crank it to the side with one hand while you un-loop the belt around one of the pulleys with the other. 3. Next you need to remove the front axle. Do it in one piece. Remove the 32mm nut that assembles the half-shaft to the spindle and the pinch bolt holding the ball joint. You also need to remove the front bolt holding the lower control arm to the frame. This will allow you to disconnect the lower control arm from the wheel hub. Pry the ball joint out of the spindle, pull the spindle off the half-shaft and then you can pull out the half-shaft. (The alternator, when held in exactly the correct position, will come out the hole created by the half-shaft removal.) Once the lower control arm is free, separate the wheel hub from the drive shaft spindle. Now remove the 2 nuts holding the half-shaft bearing and slide the front axle out of the trans-axle case in one piece. 4. (STOP---MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY CABLES BEFORE YOU PROCEED) There are 2 plastic snap clips holding the back splash guard for the alternator. Take a chisel and cut off the tops. Replace these snap clips on assemble. (Can get these at any automotive store) This will save you breaking the back splash guard for the alternator. There are (3) M13's holding the alternator, two on bottom, one on top. Remove these bolts and slide the alternator out of the way. (Note: If you have about one and a half of extensions for your socket wrench, you can get to the bolts from far in the back near the converter. This will also help when you are removing the alternator bracket. 5. Now, that the alternator is unbolted, you need to take off the alternator bracket. There are 3 M13 bolts that go from the rear into the engine block. The top one you can just barely get at blindly from above or you can use the foot and a half extensions. The next one is below and the third is easily remove from the side of the car near the wheel. Take your time and they will come out. 6. Once you have the bracket out, you can move the alternator around and get to the electrical connections. Be careful with the regulator connector, you need to push inn the tab that holds it in. I think that I used a flat screw drive on the bottom of the tab to release the snap lock. (Look at the new alternator and you will see a little square hole in the mating connector on the alternator where this snap lock engages the connector. This holds the connector on.) 7. Once you remove the bracket, you can then remove the alternator through the hole you just created by removing the drive shaft, alternator bracket and the splash guards. (Note: Do not panic, it will fit through this hole, but you have to play with it to get it out.) 6. When changing the alternator, it is a good idea to also change the serpentine belt. I saw this recommendation --- Don't do it yourself. It takes approximately 2.5 hours (per ford manual) for a trained mechanic to do it. Charge up your battery with jumper cables from another car. Run the car for good 15-20 minutes; or charge your battery with a battery-charger if you have one. Drive to the closest shop and have it replaced!!! Let me tell you --- I called the local Ford dealer 12/26/2008. They wanted $400.00 for a new alternator and $200.00 for the labor. This did not include tax and the warranty was 1 year or 12,000 miles.--- I did this job and it is time consuming, but itm only cost me $150.00 for a rebuilt alternator with a lifetime guarantee. This is the second alternator on this car. Ford did the first replacement and it last only 3 years. The cost is now out of hand. Be sure you have the tools to do this job. Specifically the 32 mm axle socket and a strong arm to remove the axle nut. Also you may need some socket extensions, if you try to get the bolts from far in the back near the converter. I did this job in my driveway on the ground in 35 degree F, weather. Just remember when you are going through these trials and tribulations --- $600.00 (God, I am making what a Ford Laborer Makes) -- And I saved nearly $400.00, even buying some of these tools doing it myself!! PS: I tested my battery with volt meter and it was less than 12 volts. The battery was over 10 years old. Something like 60% of the alternator failures are caused by bad batteries according to information on the new alternator box. So I also replaced my battery and still saved money!! Another suggestion -- Do not jump this car with another. I did this 2 days previous to the dash light going on and it may have killed the regulator that is built into the alternator. (Another great idea by Ford.) My alternator is putting out 14 volts, so my guess is the regulator is the fault for the dash light going on. Maybe Ford could separate the regulator from the alternator and put it in a convenient location. It would save a lot of time and aggravation. flathcliff The easiest way or should I say the most convenient way to change the alternator is to: 1. Loosen lug nuts and wheel hub nut on right front tire. 2. Place the car on a jack stand on the right side. 3. Remove the tire. 4. Remove the plastic splash guard. 5. Remove the belt. 6. Pop the ball joint out. 7. Remove the lower control arm. 8. Take wheel hub nut off. 9. Remove drive axle carrier bearing nuts. 10. Remove entire axle as one unit. 11. Take wire and connector off alternator 12. Remove all three alternator bolts and push alternator off to the side. 13. Remove alternator mount bracket. 14. And finally remove alternator I know this sounds ridiculous but I have done this several times and it is the the best way. Just go in reverse order when installing. This car is not maintenance friendly. On the V-6 models you have to remove the upper intake manifold just to change the spark plugs. If you are decent mechanic you'll like this car. But if you don't have skills to do it yourself and you don't have the money to pay someone to work on this car you may want to buy another vehicle.