If 5 switches control the fixture then there are 2 3-ways and 3 4-ways in the circuit. If there are only 2 switches then these are both 3-ways.
The four way switch will show which terminal screws go with each other. One set of travelers (red and black wire) go to one set - usually top left and right screws - the other set (red and black wires) go to the bottom set.
The white neutral wires are tied together and tucked into the back of the box along with the bare grounding wires separately tied together. (Pigtail off a bare wire to the green grounding screw of the switch to provide a ground to the device.)
BE CAREFUL Some electricians will back-feed and use white wires as feeds not neutrals - if you have white wires on the existing switch and you are not sure call an electrician.
Another explanation
US NEC:
A 4-way switching system is where a light - or a set of lights - can be controlled from three or more switches. The two outer switches are the same as if they were 3-way switches. Each inner switch is a two pole double throw reversing switch with only four connections. It is wired to reverse the two hot conductors that run between the two outer switches. The load can be turned on or off from any switch.
A 3-way switching system is where a light can be controlled from two switches. Each switch is a one pole double-throw switch. The incoming Hot feed is connected to the center point of one switch and the load is connected to the center point of the other switch. The two outer poles of both switches are connected together. The resulting circuit allows load to be turned on or off from either switch. Note that all wires on both switches are considered "hot" so none of them may use white insulation. Typically wires having red and black insulations are used.
See related links below.
<><><>
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
You need a double pole double throw switch .This has 3 contacts per pole making 6 in all.
You need a lamp and battery or continuity tester to sort out what contacts do what. The lever spring, or common,moves from a closed contact ,NC, to a normally open contact,NO, and is usually located in the center between the NO,and NC.
Imagine a gaming die with number 6 facing you. Top left is wired to bottom right.Bottom left is wired to top right forming an X. The two remaining lever contacts in the center position go to your motor. The two lines of the X wiring goes to the battery or power unit.
I'm assuming this is for a vehicle that runs on a 12 volt primary current, so it depends on what type of switch it is...
The three prongs will be listed as:
1. "Power"(or "Source", or "Input")
2. "Accessory"
3. "Ground"
The power wire will attach to a positive power source, which will be an open spot on the fuse box, or it could be wired directly to the battery(especially if you are running something big like a power inverter or a sub-woofer amp).
The accessory wire will go to the thing that you wish to control with the switch.
The ground wire will simply be spliced into another negative wire or screwed/bolted into any metal piece that is attached to the main chassis. This is only for the light in the switch, this wire being absent will cause nothing more than the light in the switch not to work.
It is designed to selectively turn on one of two accessories.
In this switch the prongs are usually set up so that the middle one connects to the power source (battery) and the two prongs on either side lead to the #1 and #2 accessories you wish to control.
***Make sure that you place a fuse between your power source and your new switch. Make sure it is not too big or small, or it will be worthless or blow immediately. Here are different forms of an equation to help you find the right size, knowing two power specs allows you to find the third. Be sure to go a bit larger amperage, to withstand general surges(like when the accessory first powers up). Also be ware that some fuses' amp ratings are for 250V etc.
Volts x Amps = Watts ex: 12v x 5a = 60w
Watts / Volts = Amps ex: 55w / 12 = 4.58a
A 55 watt acc. on a 12 volt system will use a 5 amp fuse.
Watts / Amps = Volts ex: 20w / 12 = 1.66v
1,000ma(milliamps) = 1a(amp)
700mA = .7A
No clue. What kind of switch and what is it supposed to do?
A Resistance of appropriate value in series.
The switch will be wired in series with the motor. It is connected between the supply voltage and the motor's junction box. The switch will break the black wire while the white wire is just wire nutted together and is carried directly through to the motor.
motherboard
Remove the light sensor and place a switch between the red and black wires. The black wire is one leg of the "hot" pair and the load is connected to the red wire. This will now switch the black hot through the red wire that goes to the load.
power source, wire, switch, end fixture. Simplest circuit would be a power source and a heating element. No wire or switch needed.
Wire is wire - is doesn't matter what voltage you use. However, if you are changing the voltage on a device from 240 to 120, given the same power requirement, you may need bigger wires for the doubled current (and increased heat of resistivity).
Broken wire or wire connection at the switch and/or fuse. You can check for any voltage present at those locations with a simple volt/ohm meter.
Run a hot (12 Volt) wire straight to the motor with a jumper to the wire that allows up. Be careful as you can get hurt doing this.
no
blown wire/fuse
you can by pass the switch, get wiring diagram and figuare out wich wires are for window motor you need rolled up, then remove switch and put power to wire that will make motor roll window up
remove pwer window switch disconnect wires. using another wire, bridge the wires in swith to complete circuit window will go up
Reset the left rear door power window by removing the power window motor and connect both the motor and the power window switch to the vehicle's wire harness. Turn the ignition switch on and it should be able to reset.
what is a power safety switch? The battery is under the back seat, and the ground wire can be unbolted from an access port in the front. If you refer to the power window safety switch, it is in between the two rear window switches and only affects them. There is no power lock safety switch.
If there is any of the window up and you can grab it you can pull it up and then with both hands, one on each side, push the window up. If it is completely down you can't do it. How about removing the power window switch and either replacing it or wire around it long enough to get the window up.
Run another dedicated hot wire to the drivers window switch. This will provide power to that window no matter if the driver cuts the power or not.
Yes 220 & 240 are considered the same.
remove switch from where it is mounted using a wire , bridge the connections.if switch is bad, it will work the motor while bridged