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Surely it depends on your rate of usage-what appliances you run from it

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Q: How long will a 100 pound tank of propane last on 8x35 travel trailer?
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Find the greatest common factor in all terms of the polynomial 8x35 plus 12x5 plus 20x4?

The GCF is 4x4


What is the LCD of 8 and 35?

lcd = lowest common denominator. are these denominators of fractions, if so the lcd (since they have no common factors) is 8x35 = 280 if you mean lowest common divisor then the answer is 1


How far does the tip of the minute hand of a clock move in 35 minutes if the hand is 4 inches long?

It moves 35/60 of a circle. Circle is circumference 2 pi r. r=4 so that's 8pi So, we have 8x35/60 pi = 280/60 pi = 14/3 pi, or approximately 14.66 inches


Describe the characteristics of a recommended pair of binoculars for bird watching?

First off, the identifying numbers on binoculars are important. 5 x 20, for example, means that the binoculars magnification power is 5 (things will appear 5 times closer), and the objective lens (the one farthest from your eyes) is 20 mm across. For bird watching, a magnification power of 7-10 is suggested. That's close enough to be able to see the birds well, without the image seriously jostled by every little twitch of your hands. An objective lens of between 35-50 is best - large enough to let in a good amount of light, without being so large as to wash out the colors on the birds. Also, the bigger the objective lens, the bigger the entire pair of binoculars. You have to decide for yourself what size you are most comfortable with. I myself have a pair that is 10x50, and am very happy with them. My mom, however, has a pair that is 8x35, and they are much smaller and lighter, and you can bring things into focus with them that are closer than what my binoculars can handle. She likes them. So, if you are watching birds in your backyard, you may want to go for a smaller magnification power. If you're going to be hiking a lot, you may want to go with a smaller pair due to weight (or a more powerful pair so that you can get a good look at birds far away). And while we're on the subject of hiking, if you plan on doing any they make "binocular harnesses" which spread the weight of your binoculars over both shoulders. Seriously, invest in them. They are a life-(neck)saver.


What is the best strength for binoculars?

The strength or magnification of binoculars is measured as a ratio of how large an object appears in the eyepiece to that of the object viewed with the eyes only. The strength of binoculars is the first number of two numbers used to "explain" the binoculars. For example, 8x35. The first number (8) is the strength, that is, the image seen through the eyepiece is 8 times larger than that seen with the naked eye. Magnification is only part of equation though, the other significant part is clarity or brightness. Think about a picture or text printed on a balloon. When the balloon is deflated, the image is small but very dark, crisp, and well defined. by blowing up the balloon, the image gets larger (and distorted) but it also gets fainter and harder to see. Magnification of an image through binoculars or a telescope is similar. When you magnify the image, you are spreading the available light gathered by the binoculars over a larger area, very much like spreading the ink on a balloon over a larger area. The finer details will be lost, and the "resolution" or crispness of the image will be reduced. That's where the second number comes in. The second number is the size of the objective (front) lens in millimeters. The bigger the number, the bigger the lens and, the more light you can gather. The bigger the second number, the larger the binoculars will be. There are real limits to how much "strength" binoculars can have because of the physical limits of gathering and bending (or focusing) large amounts of light to a point your eye can see. Images will become distorted and ultimately too faint to be of any value.


How do you change the water pump in a 1993 Volkswagen Passat VR6?

I found my answer in at vwvortex.com forums. I didn't understand the second step, so I ignored it. Here it is...Subject: Re: 94 GLX Waterpump bad First thing to do is remove the airbox completely to gain clear access to the belt and pump. Second is to remove downpipe to cat fasteners (have new ones on hand for reassembly (8x35)), then remove the bolts thru the engine mount brackets. The one at the trans is tricky because of the ABS (later years have more clearance). By this time you have the car up on jack stands. With a floor jack and a sturdy 2x4 jack up the engine, with jack on oil sump. The pass side of engine will lift quite high, and the pump will pretty much be raised above frame rail. You may want to fashion an upper support to keep the engine from accidentally dropping down while working on the side of it! I have a cross bar I made that clears the engine by half a foot, and I wrap a chain around it and anchor to the pass side lift hook. Before loosening the serpentine belt, break loose the pulley bolts with a 6mm Allen bit. An impact gun works well here, but the belt applies enough tension to keep the pulley from slipping while breaking the fasteners loose with a hand tool. They'll be tight! Once the pully bolts are loose, relieve tension on the tensioner with a long 8mm bolt thru the upper hole. Remove tensioner. Spin the pump pulley till the three holes in the face reveal the three 6mm Allen bolts holding pump to block. Remove all three bolts. With a pry bar, pry the pump loose from the block and watch the coolant pour out! Installation is reverse of removal. Just make sure you use a fresh o-ring on the pump body. And you may have to wrestle the drivetrain a bit to realign the mount holes. Total job takes me about 1.5 hrs.