Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz power supply service. On a ceiling light outlet the same convention is used as on receptacles. White wire to the silver coloured screw and the black wire to the gold coloured screw. If it is a lamp socket that you are talking about the wire going to the lamp is called lamp cord. There is an identifier on the this cord, either a raised rib or a colour identified. The identified conductor is connected to the silver screw on the socket and the other wire connects to the brass coloured screw. It is mandatory that this convention be adhered to on table lamps as the "hot" connection is kept away from fingers as far as possible by placing it at the bottom of the socket. The shell in the socket that holds the bulb will then become the neutral. On the same note on table lamps if you replace the plug always make sure that the wide blade on the plug connects to the ribbed side of the lamp cord. <><><>
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Normally a bulb holder has two screws on it to allow wrapping wires around the screws and tightening them onto the wires.
Connect the black wire to the smooth wire. The ribbed wire is the identifier for the neutral wire which is connected to the shell of the lamp holder. The smooth wire connects to the center pin in the lamp holder. Using this configuration the hot wire is kept away from your fingers as far as possible when changing out the light bulb.
Assuming the wires are 2 blacks and 2 whites, and assuming one set provides power and the other set continues the circuit downline, you connect both black wires to the black wire of the lamp holder and connect both white wires to the white wire of the lamp holder. Turn the circuit off before making these connections.
If someone only connect one of the wires to the bulb holder, the circuit will be open and the lamp will not light. This is the same principal that a switch in the circuit does. It opens and closes the circuit.
If the tri-light needs a new lamp holder try any reputable lighting house store. These types of retailers have all of the parts that you need to repair any lamp configurations. The new switch will have a rotary switch built into it just like the lamp had when it was new. There are only two wires to connect to it. Don't disconnect the old one until you have the new one and just put the wires on the same terminals as the they are wires on the old switch.
Wire the two 3 way switches using 3 wire cable (red, black, white and bare). Then connect the first light to the others using two wire cable (black, white and bare) kind of like a daisy chain. The power goes to the first 3 way switch, then switch one goes to switch 2 using the 3 wire cable (even though it has 4 wires in there), then the second switch goes to one of the lights. Hope that helps.
Connect the black wire to the smooth wire. The ribbed wire is the identifier for the neutral wire which is connected to the shell of the lamp holder. The smooth wire connects to the center pin in the lamp holder. Using this configuration the hot wire is kept away from your fingers as far as possible when changing out the light bulb.
Assuming the wires are 2 blacks and 2 whites, and assuming one set provides power and the other set continues the circuit downline, you connect both black wires to the black wire of the lamp holder and connect both white wires to the white wire of the lamp holder. Turn the circuit off before making these connections.
Your question does not supply enough information. There would be no reason to have a 'jumper' on a lamp holder under normal conditions and I don't know what "the other terminal" of a lamp holder is.
The best way to find the neutral wire on any lamp is to ring the wire out. Before there were polarized plugs and receptacles a lamp could be plugged in either way. All new lamps have polarized plugs where the neutral is connected to the shell of the lamp holder and the "hot" wire is connected to the center pin deep in the lamp socket. Back to your goose neck lamp, you will need a meter that reads resistance and use it as a continuity meter. With the lamp unplugged and the lamp's switch in the off position connect one lead of the meter to the shell of the lamp holder. Take the other lead and touch it to one of the plug cap blades. If the meter gives a reading it is that blade that is the neutral wire. If there is no reading then that blade is considered the "hot" wire. If you are changing the plug (cap) out for a new one connect the newly established neutral wire to the silver coloured screw and the newly established "hot" wire to the gold coloured screw. Now when ever and where ever the lamp is plugged into a voltage source the polarity will be correct and the lamp will be much safer to use.
In North America the neutral has to be identified as such. On a lamp cord the ribbed insulation side is the identification of the neutral wire. The "hot" conductor of the lamp cord is the smooth insulation.No. Screw material is no safe indicator because they would be too easy to swap round.
To connect a wire to an electric bulb you will need a battery, wires with alligator pegs and the bulb, plus plasticine or blue tack. You must stick the plasticine to the end of the battery and then also you must stick the other side of the battery with plasticine (the wires must be under the plasticine). next use the alligator pegs to hold both sides of the bulb. thus your bulb works. You should find this information pretty helpful.AnswerYou wire a lamp holder, and insert the lamp (not 'bulb' -you plant bulbs!) into the lamp holder.
if the copper wire (s) were conneting the battery to the lamp removing one of the wires would break a circut and the lamp goes out.
If someone only connect one of the wires to the bulb holder, the circuit will be open and the lamp will not light. This is the same principal that a switch in the circuit does. It opens and closes the circuit.
In order to 'power' a lamp, you need to connect that lamp to a voltage supply. But why would you use gold wire when copper is a better conductor?
Absolutely. Only you need connect together two wires coming from each lamp holder (shunt).
A device for holding a lamp.
A lamp holder that turns on from a wall light switch not a switch on the device.