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Hi: I'm going to attemp to help by minimizing answer same way as you minimized your question.Assuming it ever worked right at all, Think back hard and try and remember if any work has been done in the area where that duct work my be. If so you may have crushed or disconnected ducts to those areas. ( seen it bunch of times )

Also, Never assume whomever installed it did it right in the first place. Seen plenty of dunder head pros. Thankfully you can get your own calculation guides and figure for yourself you basic needs. Though not a pro. you may be surprised how effective you can be.

If you are trying to heat/cool a two story house with one system you needed a better than average dude putting it in to say the least. Plenty of kewl things you can do to make it work, (BUT) most don't know them, or bother if they do.

Hope this helps: Ask more if you need, Jimiwane

air flow dividing is a function of the ventilation duct layout. if it was built by a certified HVAC contractor, it was laid out prpoerly, and was later tampered with or has developed a blockage. If you know something was done to ducting or vents, that is probably where the trouble was started. Re-establishing flow balance is not simple, it requires some knowledge and some math. call a HVAC tech, and get help there. I could explain it, but you would still get it wrong, it involves too many specific variables.

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Assuming no one has disturbed the ductwork with remodeling, etc. . . . There are two solutions.

The first temptation is to close the air supply duct in the room with the thermostat. It will still get some circulation from the other rooms. Unfortunately, they will be too hot in winter and too cold in summer, so you'll have to tinker with the thermostat setting, which may work reasonably well unless the outside temperature is severe. Your mileage may vary.

The second solution is the one I use, and I'm extremely satisfied with it.

When the A/C cycles off, any house heats up more in some areas (upstairs or sunny rooms, for example) than others (basement, north-facing rooms). The thermostat is in a single room -- that's the only room that stays at a reasonable temperature. All the others are too hot or too cold no matter what season.

I stay comfortable everywhere by employing the same concept used in commercial buildings -- run the FAN all the time, and let the A/C (and furnace) cycle as needed. You'll find this also stops all those creaking and popping noises the ductwork makes as it expands and contracts with every cycle, since the temperature swings are much smaller and more gradual/gentle.

On every home thermostat, you'll find a switch that has nothing to do with the temperature setting, marked OFF / ON / AUTO. Yours (everybody's) is set to Auto, so the A/C (and furnace) automatically turn the blower fan off and on as needed. The fan cycles late so the unit can come up (or down) to temp, then continue to bleed off some residual energy from the unit after the unit has cycled off. If you switch it to OFF, nothing will run.

But, if you set it to ON, the fan will run constantly. (This is the setting you want).

You'll find the basement gets dry so it won't need a de-humidifier (and all the little critters die), the upstairs is cool, and the entire house is always comfortable. (Works great in winter, too). You're constantly circulating all the existing room air to all the rooms, so they all remain about the same temperature. If you find one room is too cool, slightly adjust the air duct in that room only.

It would be ridiculous to use the same system in a large commercial building that you use in your home (i.e., fan cycles on only when heating or cooling is called). Large buildings run the fan 24/7 and modify the amount of heat or cool that goes into each room by using multiple thermostats spread around the building.

The downside is that you'll need to oil your furnace's blower motor every few years instead of 'never'. It's easy to do, even though you've never done it before.

Buy a quart of 5W-30 synthetic oil (about $4, lasts far longer -- Mobil 1, for example) from an auto supply store. While you're there, ask for a 'zoom spout' oiler (about $3). It's a small bottle with a long, narrow snout that puts oil into tight places. Switch the oil in the bottle with the synthetic. Put the unused oil in an old shampoo bottle for later use (yeah; like that's gonna happen).

Turn off the main electric power to the furnace. There's a wide rectangular hole in the front of the furnace that lets air into the combustion chamber. Below that is a cover over the blower fan and motor (you'll see the return-air ductwork on the side). Just pull off the lowest cover from its top edge. You should see a weird little push-switch that automatically turns off the unit when the bottom cover is removed.

Inside the box you've just uncovered, you'll see a large rounded tub shape. Pull it straight toward you and it will (grudgingly -- it's just sheet metal riding on sheet metal) slide out about halfway.

On one side you'll see two long plastic tubes that look like drink straws, open at the top (the other end goes to each motor bearing). Pull the 'zoom' out of the zoom spout, put it in the tube, and fill the tube with oil. Repeat with the other tube. Put the cap on the zoom and then push it back into the bottle (in that order or you'll get oil on your hands).

Push the blower back in, replace the cover, turn on the power. Do not disturb the squirrel cage fan -- it has been carefully balanced with little counterweights. Time: about 7 minutes. After you've done it once, about 5 minutes. If you forget and it runs out of oil, it will squeak.

Repeat every 5 years. Trust me -- once you realize how comfortable you are all year 'round, you'll never regret it.

Or, you could just go back to the 'Auto' setting and be right where you are now. Miserable.

This is great practice for the unlikely event that your furnace blower motor fails (it doesn't happen often, but it does happen, and often in the dead of winter). You can replace the motor for about $35-$40 and a little bit of your time and effort and an Allen wrench (we use Grainger Supply), or pay someone about $400-$500 to do it for you when they get to you. It's your choice.

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Q: If when the AC is running some parts of your house feel almost too cold while others aren't cool at all what causes this?
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