Short answer YES it is possible.
Long answer below:
Aluminum soldering can be simple but has a number of critical areas that need tight process control. Tenacious aluminum oxide makes most attempts to solder using conventional means difficult. In addition, care must be taken regarding alloy choice due to potential galvanic corrosion consequences because of aluminum’s dissimilarity with many conventional solders. The varieties of aluminum alloys, gauges, and tempers often display widely varying soldering results, and how aluminum accepts or rejects heat during soldering must be carefully studied for each individual job.
Soldering can be done with either soft solders (Sn-based, lower temperature) or hard solders (Zn-based, higher temperature) and with appropriate fluxes to fit processing temperature ranges. By definition, soldering is a low-temperature joining process. Therefore, less distortion of the aluminum component is expected by soldering than by brazing, welding, or other fusion joining processes. Soldering temperatures of 225 to 490°C are well below the 661°C aluminum melting temperature, although 490°C is above the annealing point. Stresses in the aluminum from shearing, drawing, and heat treating are changed by the localized heating encountered during soldering, and distortion may result. Preheating, noncontinuous joints, and careful selection of joint geometry becomes critical.
Various aluminum alloys have different solderability: 1xxx, 2xxx, 3xxx, 4xxx, and 7xxx are easier to solder than the 6xxx series alloys. Due to their magnesium content, 5xxx series alloys are the most difficult to solder.
Dangers of Overheating
Due to its low melting temperature, aluminum may be annealed or tempered at temperatures as low as 325–350°C in a relatively short time. This suggests that any joining process approaching these temperatures for more than a brief interval may begin to alter the properties of the base metals being joined. Overheating may result in stress relieving, sagging or warping panels, altering hardness, temper, surface condition, re-alloying of the base metal in the immediate joint area, hot cracking, or even a dreaded meltdown.
There are aluminum solders that do not require fluxes. Instead of flux, they require the use of a stainless steel brush to remove the aluminum oxide from the surfaces to be soldered. The melting point is 388°C / 732°F. One such product is Durafix. You can find the videos of it in use at YouTube.com
De-soldering gun is used for removing molten solder, defective components, altering, and salvaging high value components in a circuit for possible re-use.
To use a soldering iron, you must have a piece of solder, something to cool it down, eg a damp sponge and a mains plug socket.You must plug in the soldering iron and push the switch. Then, you must take your piece of solder, and with the soldering iron in one hand (Preferably your strongest hand) and your piece of solder in the other, you need to heat the tip of the soldering iron by feeding your piece of solder through the curved part of the soldering iron. This will melt the tip of the solder, and once you have melted about 5 millimetres, you are ready to go.You need to use your piece of solder to feed through the soldering iron once again, but this time, the melted solder (the gooy gray stuff) that comes out needs to be applied to the two pieces of metal you want to solder together. Once you have used about 2 centimetres of solder, the melted solder will have hopefully made a mountain shape that curves around the two pieces. Solder freezes VERY quickly so you only have to leave it for about 5-10 seconds, then give it a firm pull, and it should remain intact.ANSWER: The sponge is not to cool it down but rather to clean the tip from operation to operation. To begin with apply solder to the tip to tin it. Always use the right iron for the job. The idea is to melt the solder and make a good connection without heating and destroying the part. A good solder connection is a shiny connection. The application of solder flux will help the solder to flow and displace material present. There is no time limit or set time if it takes too long you got the wrong iron needs more heat in that case or a clean tip.prepare the items to be soldered so that they make a solid mechanical contactclean the surfaces with flux (if you are using "cored solder" this happens automatically)begin heating the items to be soldered with the soldering ironmelt a little bit of solder between the soldering iron and the items to be solderedas soon as the items to be soldered are hot enough to melt solder themselves melt solder into themimmediately remove the soldering iron and let the joint coolif the joint has smooth shiny surfaces you are done, otherwise the joint will be rough and crystalline looking (this is called a "cold joint") and you will have to apply more flux remelt it with the soldering iron and sometimes add a bit more solder. oddly enough a common cause of "cold joints" is overheating and burning off the flux you applied
pre tinning make it easier to solder wire because the solder is already " stuck" to the wire. and less solder will be needed to join the wire. if you watch the solder under a magnifier while tinning, you will notice the solder does not flow and "stick" until proper heat and flux ar applied. this heat usually is more than required to melt the solder because it takes mor heat to heat up the wire due to higher density. after tinning, less heat is required to melt the solder, and enough flux is usually left from tinning to quickly join the wire to the desired material provided the material is also tinned. this reduces cold solder and provides for a more relible connection. To tin the wire first is to cover the end of the wire with a layer of solder before you put it thru the hole in the PCB that will give you insurance of a proper electrical contact else you will put a heap of solder on the PCB without a proper contact with the wire itself what is called a dry joint that go for un tinted copper wire only normally all electronic component pins is factory tinted
solder
It is known as tinning.
The majority of boat props are aluminum. You can't solder it, it has to be welded or heli arced.
This is not possible. You must replace the diode.
You clean both surfaces to be joined with a circular steel brush, then heat and 'tin' each piece, with the larger piece being second. When the larger piece is tinned and still warm, insert the small piece into it and seal the rim by running solder all round it..
yes because you are many when the enemy's many too you didn't no
Easier to solder /braze/ flair / compression
Yes. However, you will not use lead based solder as it is to soft. It would need to use "silver solder" and a small, high energy gas torch - If the pins are end on the weld will be rather fragile
yes it is possible by turning and milling..................
The reaction is not possible.
De-soldering gun is used for removing molten solder, defective components, altering, and salvaging high value components in a circuit for possible re-use.
Lead wire is sometimes used to weigh down plants.
with solder
Yes, usually no problem. If you know how to solder, then solder away.