Chemistry is the driving force behind the magics of batteries.
A battery is a package of one or more galvanic cells used for the production and storage of electric energy by chemical means. A galvanic cell consists of at least two half cells, a reduction cell and an oxidation cell. Chemical reactions in the two half cells provide the energy for the galvanic cell operations.
Each half cell consists of an electrode and an electrolyte solution. Usually the solution contains ions derived from the electrode by oxidation or reduction reaction.
We will make this introduction using a typical setup as depicted here. The picture shows a copper zinc galvanic cell (battery).
A galvanic cell is also called a voltaic cell. The spontaneous reactions in it provide the electric energy or current.
Two half cells can be put together to form an electrolytic cell, which is used for electrolysis. In this case, electric energy is used to force nonsponaneous chemical reactions.
Look at the Electrochemical series the further apart the elements are the more powerful the battery would be
This chemical is sulfuric acid.
During electrolyte regulation, water bubbles up hydrogen gas because it is a dipole.
yall dumb cant even spell btw it burns up your house
The positive electrode is a graphite rod (elemental carbon).
-blood pressure -blood glucose level - level of water (intake of fluids) - salt - alcohol - exercise (sweat) - external temperature
epsom salt is also known as magnesium sulfate, which is made up of a cation and a polyatomic anion which can dissociate in water, therefore, yes, it is an electrolyte
Answer 1 - Ventilation of Battery Storage RoomsYes, absolutely unless the stored have no electrolyte in them [are "dry"]. Answer 2yes or htey will blow up
Car batteries are filled with sulfuric acid, not water. The battery fluids get "topped up" with distilled water if they get low.
A dry-charged battery is a conventional non-sealed wet-cell battery (this is almost always a rechargeable type). Normally, this battery type is wet-charged, meaning that the battery is filled with electrolyte at the factory, charged, and then shipped with the electrolyte in the battery. However, since the battery is not sealed, the electrolyte (either a strong acid or alkali) can spill out, which can be both a health and environmental hazard. The battery will also self-discharge at its normal rate during shipment and storage. Dry-charging is a way to minimize these problems. Like a wet-charged battery, a dry-charged battery is filled with electrolyte at the factory and charged. However, the electrolyte is then removed from the battery. The battery is then washed out, dried out, and sealed. The battery may also be filled with an inert gas to minimize reaction of any remaining electrolyte, as in the U.S. military BB-451/U silver-zinc battery, which used a very strong alkaline electrolyte (40% potassium hydroxide). The sealed battery is shipped and stored separately from the electrolyte. Because the electrolyte is in a sealed container, chances of spillage are reduced. The sealed battery will also self-discharge at a lower rate than usual, so it should still have useful charge up to 18 months after manufacture if stored below +90 degrees Fahrenheit (+32 degrees Celsius). When the battery is needed, the electrolyte is CAREFULLY added back to the battery (eye protection and gloves must be worn and other precautions taken). The battery must be allowed to sit for some time afterwards so the electrolyte can soak around and through the battery's internal structures. The electrolyte temperature will rise and its specific gravity (SG) will drop during the soak. The manufacturer may recommend that the SG be measured after the soak time, and the measured value will have to be corrected for any difference between the actual electrolyte temperature and the temperature at which the reference SG was measured. After the soak time, a (very rare) nonrechargeable dry-charged battery is ready for use, and some rechargeable dry-charged batteries may also be ready for use (like the BB-451/U). However, dry-charged lead-acid batteries will almost always need a low top-off or trickle charge. Rolls Batteries prescribes 5% of the 8-hour or 20-hour charge rate, to be reduced if the electrolyte becomes too warm or too much gas bubbles out of it. If the electrolyte in a rechargeable battery becomes too warm before charging, the battery will first have to be cooled down or allowed to cool naturally.
standard chemical battery contains chemical composition . as i know it may be lead acid battery it contains Lead and Sulfuric acid and water the lead is used for make electrodes and acid is used as electrolyte . this is used for provide back- up to ups and DC to AC converter (inverter) widely.
Lead acid batteries use a weak solution of sulfuric acid in water as an electrolyte. Some of the water evaporates if it is not a sealed battery, causing the electrolyte to become more acidic than normal. Adding water to the correct water level makes up for the evaporation and restores the battery acid solution to its proper strength.
Fluids and salt
Check the electrolyte levels and fill up if necessary with battery fluid. Hook battery up with a charger. Begin with 12 Volts and low amperage, 2 Amps, then increase to 3 or 4 amps. Battery should be fully charged in 4-6 hours.
AHA!! Great question, and good thinking! A power cell, or 'pile' needs several things. One is metallic conductors so the electricity can go someplace. Another thing is an electrolyte which 'powers up' the pile. The third thing is a fluid to help the electrolyte do its job. Quite often, that fluid is plain old water. So, 1. Somebody supplies metallic wires 2. The potato all by itself makes a fairly good electrolyte, and 3. The potato contains a fluid to help the electrolyte: Water. By the way, if you connect 2 or more of these power cells head-to-tail, they form a battery of power cells, or for short, 'Battery'.
The electrodes and the electrolyte are the main parts. The electrodes are the anode and the cathode.
The function of the Magic Eye® state of charge battery indicator is based on the specific gravity of the sulfuric acid or electrolyte. When a battery is charging, the change in the density of the acid is a little delayed as compared to the actual state of charge of the battery. However, the battery indicator should show green once the battery is back to 100% state of charge. There may be several reasons as to why it is not showing green: 1. If the battery was allowed to remain in the dis-charged state for a great length of time, the battery may in fact be bad and the battery indicator will not show green because the electrolyte has not reached the proper specific gravity. The specific gravity of the electrolyte is the most accuarate method of measuring state of charge. 2. The acid in the battery is "stratified" meaning that the heavier acid has sunk to the bottom and the lighter water is floating near the top. This happens with batteries that have sat for a long time in the discharged state. Normally, re-charging will stir the electrolyte make it more homogenious. 3. There may be a small piece of battery separator material preventing the green ball from floating up. The best thing to do is gently rock the battery back and forth. This will mix the electrolyte and will most likely free the green ball to float up "IF" the specific gravity of the acid is dense enough. Keep in mind that even though the Magic Eye®is located in only 1 of 6 cells, testing conducted by a major OE car company proved that the battery indicator accurately indicates the state of charge of the entire battery.
Batteries convert chemical energy into electricity. Batteries are made up of one or more separate sections, or cells, containing a chemical called an electrolyte.
Do you mean that the interior lights dim, when the ignition key is turned? This usually indicates a dead or discharged battery. Batteries can be notoriously temperamental at this time of year, the temperature of the electrolyte is critical to their function. A cold or chilled battery, will not provide as much power as a warmer battery. Checking items such as Drivebelt Tension, Electrolyte levels, terminal cleanliness and security, are more important at this time of year, when temperatures are low. Initially, you should try recharging the battery, using a battery charger, preferably indoors where the battery can warm up quicker. Normally Trickle-charging the battery for about an hour or two, should be sufficient to start most cars. Although if you have an old battery, it may be better to replace it. **IMPORTANT** Always check and balance the electrolyte levels BEFORE charging, otherwise the battery can be damaged.