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In theory: All chokes are a tradeoff between pattern density and pattern size. A open choke like Cylinder or Skeet does not constrict the shot very much so the pattern is bigger at close range. This is great for very close targets because you have a little more room for error when pointing at the target. The problem with open chokes is that as targets get further away, the odds of the target flying through your shot swarm increases because the shot density becomes thinner as the pattern continues to open up with distance. In other words, if you use a skeet choke at the most rearward trap line, you'll have a big pattern but you won't have enough density to break the targets. For a beginner, this is particularly frustrating, because they may have the correct hold-over and lead, but don't break the target because of density - so they learn nothing. The reality is that chokes may or may not produce the results as indicated. I have a modified and full that pattern pretty much the same - so you never know what you're shooting until you pattern it. Research Shotgun Patterning on the internet for complete instuctions. The second reality is that most folks can't judge distance and overchoke their guns. After you patten your chokes, then.... To increase your odds of hitting targets - use the most "open" choke that will maintain good density at the distance you're shooting - exactly the same as most experienced shooters do... Skeet choke for shooting Skeet, Mod to Full for Trap, Cyl to Light Mod will handle 95% of shots on the sporting clays courses around here. To increase your skill - occasionally use your full choke for everything until you learn proper gun mount, swing, lead and followthrough. When you start getting frustrated, switch back to the open chokes to get a little positive feedback on some close targets, then move back to the full choke.

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Q: What are the best chokes to use for a beginner on clay pigeon shooting?
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