When you first turn the key to start your car, if you notice a momentary, split-second lull or "bog-down" before everything starts normally, your battery might be ready to go out on you. I'm no expert, but this is what I have observed three times in my life, right before the battery died completely. Gerry Gunn, Los Angeles
The the alternator is defective.
A defective battery is worth about $5 to a recycler.
A bad car battery makes engine start for a second and will not go through, a second attempt of turning the key will just make a tick" sound and no more. This kind of problem is due to a defective battery very sure.
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Sure, if the alternator voltage regulator is defective it can overcharge the battery.
If the battery is defective there's no way to fix the battery must just replace the battery.
You either have a corroded or loose battery cable connection at the battery, a defective or drained battery, defective starter relay or starter.
Overcharging or defective battery. They will also crake in freezing temperatures if the battery has lost it's charge.
Defective, corroded, or loose battery cable.
If the battery is defective get a new battery. If you just left something on and ran it down, charge the battery and keep going.
The alternator does not hold a charge. It charges the battery. If it will not charge the battery then either the alternator is defective, battery is defective, or the connections are corroded or loose. You should read 13.5 to 15.5 volts at the battery with the engine idling. Check it with a DC volt meter. If you get less the alternator is defective. If you get much more the voltage regulator is defective.
Engine seized? Loose or corroded battery terminals? Flat spot on starter? Defective starter solenoid? Defective neutral or clutch safety switch? Defective ignition switch?