Opens and closes an internal valve to provide/cut-off water to the icemaker - responds to pressure signal from the ice-maker to deliver/cutoff water - ice-maker signal activates an electric solenoid that open/closes the valve for water flow.
It could be that your water inlet valve is weeping. This means that a very small amount of water is passing through the valve constantly. Your inlet valve is a triple valve that supplies water to the ice maker and the water in the door, one to filter. The triple valve has three solenoids and three separate diaphragms and flow washers. If one side fails you must change the entire valve. (valve located on back side of unit where water supply connects)
DIRTY ICE MAKER WATER VALVE OR BROKEN VALVE
Most refrigerators in use today have ice makers that may stop working from time to time. The refrigerator’s ice maker receives its water supply from a water valve. The water valve is the first component of the refrigerator that should be checked when there is a malfunction with the ice maker. To operate, the ice maker closes an electric circuit enabling the water valve to open. Water will then flow through the water valve into the ice maker. The ice maker will then begin the process of making ice cubes and placing them in the ice tray. The water valve has a filter that keeps out particles from entering into the ice maker through the water supply. These particles can sometimes build up at the water valve filter and may even block the flow of water to the ice maker. When the flow of water in the water valve is restricted due to build up, it can cause the still water freeze in the valve. One solution is to heat the water valve with a hair dryer to melt the ice buildup in the ice maker. Be careful not to heat the plastic of the refrigerator too much causing it to melt. These particles can also lock the valve in the open position filling up the ice maker to excess. Sometimes an open solenoid coil winding can cause the valve to remain closed. This will not allow the water to flow to the ice maker as the plunger remains closed. In order to do further tests on the refrigerator to determine the fault with the ice maker is to test the current flow. This will not only be a safer measure for you as you attempt to repair your ice maker, but will also ensure the various components are operating as they should. Your diagnosis will most likely be related to the water valve, but if your refrigerator is old it could mean your ice maker needs to be replaced. Occasionally the electrical connections can sometimes get short circuited or disconnected during use. Thoroughly examine all the parts of your refrigerator with the proper tools and testing equipment.
On hot summer days a cold drink with ice cubes floating inside is an ideal treat. Even on cold winter days when entertaining friends at home, the ice cubes should be flowing for their drinks of choice. When the ice maker starts to have problems, it can become a worry. Calling a professional is the first thing that comes to mind when an ice maker repair job is needed. There could be one or more causes that keeps the ice maker from working properly. Another idea is for you to do some troubleshooting of your own. If the ice maker won’t shut off or it just makes too much ice, you can check two things. The shutoff switch should be tested and the shutoff arm should be checked. If the ice maker makes no ice at all, there are several troubleshooting tips to try to find the problem. Check the shutoff arm, the supply valve and the freezer temperature. Inspect the water supply line and the ejector gear. Test the shutoff switch, the ejector motor, ice mold heater, holding switch, the water inlet switch, the thermostat and the water inlet valve. Another problem an ice maker may have is that the ice cubes are too small or large and that it doesn’t make enough of ice. The cube size control could be adjusted. Again, some of the same troubleshooting tips could be used as for the other problems. Check the supply valve. Test the water inlet switch and inlet valve. Inspect the water supply line. If the ice doesn’t eject, you can inspect the ejector gear. The ejector motor, holding switch, thermostat and ice mold heater should be tested. Sometimes a problem could be the color of the ice. If it is discolored, flush out the supply line and test the water inlet valve. The ice mold tray could simply need a cleaning. Have a supply line filter installed if the refrigerator doesn’t have one. If there is water leaking from the unit, check the ice maker and the refrigerator for level. Check the fill cup alignment and the supply line. Once again, the inlet switch and inlet valve could be tested. Whatever ice maker repair is needed, it may be something that you can fix yourself. To do these tasks, you can read the owner’s manual for instructions. If you aren’t sure, it’s still best to call a professional.
AnswerCheck the water inlet tube at the ice maker. It is probably getting blocked!AnswerOr the solenoid valve is going bad, or it is plugged right before it. In rare cases you could try a defrost of the freezer to see if there was a partially frozen tube.
The water pipe from the pump to the ice maker is quite thin; check it to see that it is not plugged. Check to see that there is water also at the inlet to the water pump. If there is not, check that the pipe leading to the water pump is not plugged.
This type of problem could be caused by the water valve or the temperature in the freezer. If the temperature gets above 5 degrees, the ice-maker production will start slowing down. If the temperature is all right, to determine if the ice-maker or water valve is the problem, the ice-maker will need to be cycled. To cycle the ice-maker pull the front cover off and you will see some test terminals. Now place a well-insulated jumper between the T & H terminals. Be very careful this is a live check. This will cycle the icemaker and after the ejector has freed the cubes in the mold, remove the jumper. Towards the end of the cycle, it should fill with water for 7.5 seconds and get approx. 4.5 ounces of water. If the fill time is correct but the water fill is low, the water valve will need to be replaced. If the fill time is less, first try adjusting the water fill at the icemaker. If the cubes are still too small, the icemaker will need to be replaced. I would also suggest getting a qualified technician out to do the test.
This unit has a water dispenser on the front but not one for ice.
The water line where it enters the ice maker could possibly be frozen.
blue ice color can only be made by blue toilet cleaning soluions that have been frozen, food coloring will not freeze throughout the water and create solid blue ice like the toilet cleaner. The chemicals in toilet tank cleaners will. Other colors like rust or yellow ice comes from the same souce and spider ice are a conditions that occurs in a home when the ice maker will draw water for ice and the house water presure is low so the ice maker will draw from the toliet tank usally at night. the home has a toilet fill vlave conected to the cold water line and acts like a straw, the is because the homeowner does not have a code listed or mostly china knockoff fill valve in their toilet that are not anti siphon. The best way to not have an issues is to buy code listed valve, the most popular valve in home depot and lowes is the fluidmaster that also has this same issue when the valve is older than 5 years and the interior gaskets fails. if you are expericeing ice of a differnet color ask any plumber who can remidy with a toilet valve replacment
In most countries, the law clearly states that any fixture which draws water and comes from a live main feed shall always have a water shut off valve.
I'm sure there are many people with experience on that Ice Maker. It should be a timer to fill the ice maker - either directly or through activating a valve (common). If the timer is functioning properly then your water pressure, or flow (GPM) is low.