There were 3 models of the IJ revolver, and in each different model, the s/n was repeated, so that without seeing the gun and identifying its variation, we cannot know if it is 1st Model, 2nd Model, or 3rd Model. Additionally, the later IJs wer prefixed with a letter, so yours must be an early one. A publication entitled Iver-Johnson Arms & Cycle Works Firearms 1871-1993 has a list of most serial #'s with dates of production, published by Gun Show Books Publishing. There were three main models of Iver Johnson "Safety" topbreak revolvers. 1st & 2nd Model revolvers were built for black powder cartridges only. Continued use of higher pressure smokeless in these revolvers will result in them shooting loose, getting out of time, and parts breakage. The 3rd Model was especially beefed-up, redesigned, and "fortified" for use with smokeless powder and is fine for modern factory ammo. Alas, only 1st (all) & 2nd (some) Model revolvers fall into the legal Antique category. 1st Model (1894-1896): SINGLE-POST top latch; leaf springs; cylinder "free-wheeling" when at rest 2nd Model (1897-1908): DOUBLE-POST top latch; leaf springs; cylinder "free-wheeling" when at rest 3rd Model (1909-1941): DOUBLE-POST top latch; COIL springs; cylinder locked when at rest If you've determined, from the above characteristics, that you have a 2nd Model IJ revolver, here's how to determine whether it was made before 1899 (and thus a legal antique) or not. Fortunately, Iver Johnson built revolvers by the "batch" system, and only changed & upgraded their guns once a year, so it is quite easy to determine whether an IJ is antique or not, just by cursory examination. In only * one* case (.32 small frame *hammer* model) does the serial number need to be checked. In other cases, you can "tell at a glance" once you know what to look for. Pre-1899 2nd Model guns will exhibit the following characteristics: Large frame (.38) HAMMERLESS: Separate hammer shroud on frame (shroud not integral with frame) Small Frame (.32) HAMMERLESS: Separate hammer shroud on frame (shroud not integral with frame) Note: Integral frame w/shroud introduced start of 1899 production Large frame (.38) hammer: Patent dates on top rib of BARREL Small Frame (.32) hammer: Patent dates on top rib of BARREL, *AND* must check serial number prefix (left side of grip strap underneath grip - yes, you must remove the grips for this one): A = 1897; E = 1898; F = 1899. The easy way to remember: If it has an 'F' it FLUNKS the Antique Test. Note 1: Patent dates moved from top rib of barrel at start of 1899 production. Note 2: All .22 rimfire IJ topbreak revolvers are post-1898 (The .22 chambering began in 1901).
what is condition of grips, bore, and metal. what is the barrel length..what is the caliber?? Serial #. all these things have to do with value...................
Who made it, what caliber is it, is it a rifle, shotgun or hadgun, how long is the barrel, is the barrel round or octagon, what is the stock made out of, what is the serial number(if any)? Who made it, what caliber is it, is it a rifle, shotgun or hadgun, how long is the barrel, is the barrel round or octagon, what is the stock made out of, what is the serial number(if any)?
1921
value depends on overall condition...............
The value of an Iver Johnson Magnum 22 caliber revolver would be dependent upon a number of factors. Some of these factors would be the age and condition.
$800 to $900
Give me a serial number and I can help. Length of barrel, finish and grip material will help too. serial # is 72728, the length of the barrel is six and one half inches with a blued barrel and a wood grip
see text: Iver Johnson Arms and Cycle works 1871 - 1978
what can you tell me about a colt single action 45 caliber with a 7-1/2 in. barrel serial number 52154
50-400 usd
Without knowing the barrel length, finish, caliber or serial number you might be in the 300-1300 price range
Between $5 and $50 unless it has unusual features.