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This is not quite right. On mine, anyway, there is a 14mm hex-head close to the 14mm hex-head that retains the handbrake cable on the back of the caliper. You need to remove this 14mm hex head, not the one that holds on the cable, and inside is an adjuster with an allen head-- 6mm I think. You need to back this out as far as it will go. There is NO NEED to use force or unscrew the bleed nipple. You'll have to readjaust the handbrake later either by the time-honoured method or screwing in the little adjuster.
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The above procedure is the same for a Mazda MX5 mark 2 (1.6). The only difference is that the allen screw behind the 14mm hex-head is 4mm.
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The best way is to use the allen key adjuster to retract the cylinder , no force necessary , no bleeding etc . Its easy that way
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It could also be possible that the piston needs to be rotated clockwise to allow it retract. This is due to the self adjusters. This can be done with the CORRECT tool ( about £20) or with a pair of water pump pliers ( not the best, but when noting else will do!).
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Caliper pistons on rear disc brakes rotate to retract. If you use any tool to press them back in as you would on from disc brakes, you will damage the calipers and possibly the tool.
First answer by 1930fcoupe. Last edit by Gibsond. Contributor trust: 0 [recommend contributor]. Question popularity: 40 [recommend question]
Answers.com > Wiki Answers > Categories > Cars and Vehicles > Asian Cars > Mazda > Mazda 323 > What is the secret to changing the rear brake pads on a 91 Mazda 323 Seems like the caliper cylinder won't retract far enough to slide the new pads in Is there a trick?
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