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this is common - I have a 98. Your motor works but there is a long "worm screw" that has deattached from a bracket. The bracket attaches to the bottom of the window.

here's what I did...

carefully pull off the inside door skin. there are plastic body clips holding it on, three large screws and one small one near the front.

then there are two control arms that attach to your interior door opener handle - one for opening, one for the lock. remove plastic clips that hold them in place then pop out the control arms. Now you can pull the door skin right off.

oh, you also have to unplug your power switch from the armrest.

ok, so you have the panel off right? if you don't, I;ll wait here for a min while you do that.

ok your back?

now you need to tear away the white vapour barrier - its stuck on with black stuff - peel it back and make sure you don't get it on your clothes.

now you should see the inspection ports-with the window half way down you should see the bottom of the window.

now you need to tape the window in the half way up position other wise it will fall down. I used 2 inch wide scotch tape - don't use Duct Tape cause the glue is hard to come off afterwards. tape the glass to the vertical post at the back and tape along the bottom horizontal edge.

ok - see the bracket at the bottom of the window? take that off.

now unscrew the vertical track

also unscrew the power motor.

all you need to do is get the track out of the inspection port so that you can access the worm screw.

Here's the ingenious part that saves you hundreds!!

I took that bracket and using a chisel, I chiseled off the plastic from the steel (the plastic is the reason it busted in the first place)

I drilled two holes in the steel part where the plastic teeth would have been-make sure it lines up where it used to be on the track - mark where the holes are to go in relation with the track.

tehn you need a couple of cotter pins - yep that's right cotter pins.

The cotter pins wrap around the grooves in the worm screw at the end. Make sure they are tight right into the grooves cause when the screw going back into the track, you don't want there to be any unnecessary friction.

now power the screw back into the track [actually first I sprayed the track, the hose where the screws comes from and everything with WD40.]

now put the bracket back onto the cotter pins which should now be sticking out from the track. Bend them over and cut off the excess.

put everything back the way you took it apart and BOBS YOUR UNCLE!!

savings between 150-300 for the entire regulator assembly and about 200 for labor! PLUS TAXES.

Now take the money you saved and put it into an RESP for your kids.

any questions? info "at" alexanderarmysurplus.com - I took pictures too - hope to post this article with photos to a website soon.

-- here's the wesbite with photos

http://jeepxj1998.blogspot.com/

best, Phil

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Q: What is wrong when the front passenger power window motor sounds like it's going to work but then stops and the window will not move on a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee?
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