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What would be causes of high idle in Taurus Sable?

Updated: 9/17/2019
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12y ago

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Most likely a faulty EGR or throttle position sensor Answer Checked all vacuum lines for leaks (telltale hisssssing sounds) - no problems.

Turns out to be IAC (Idle Air Control) valve , quick fix, running good

I have had the same problem with my 97 Sable 24 valve for a couple years. I can roll through town without my foot on the gas. I put in N and the tach goes up to around 2200 as long as I'm rolling. When I come to a stop it comes down to normal idle. Consequently I have gone through about three sets of front rotors.

Last year they diagnosed it as a throttle position sensor to no avail. A couple days ago a mechanic said it might be the transmission range sensor, which is the new fangled name for neutral safety switch. I have the 11 pin so alot of information goes through that switch.

He may be right but I hate to spend over 100 bucks for the part if it doesn't correct the problem. Also this problem seems to be absent in colder weather. It just started happening again when it got above 30 degrees. Was fine all winter.

First off, thanks to the individual who posted the high idle condition/transmission shift problems on the DOHC duratec engine for Taurus/Sable and the fix being the replacement of the idle air control valve.I feel compelled to post also because I got good information that was free from someone willing to take the time and effort to post and one good turn deserves another.My experience on my 1999 Sable was very similar. My 99 Sable has the 24 valve DOHC engine, AX4N transaxle and I bought it used in 2000 with 23k miles on it. It currently has 398k miles on it. I do a lot of driving in my line of work. I'm a lawyer--have briefcase will travel.At any rate, this past May my Sable developed an erratic shift condition which only occurred after driving the vehicle 20 minutes or so after it got warmed up fully. The transmission would shift rough between first and second gears, or it would skip 2nd gear altogether and shift from 1st to 3rd and would only drop into 3rd if I took my foot off the gas. Initially there was no problem with the idle. I took it to the most reputable trans shop in the area. They kept the car for 4 days and could not fix the problem so I wasn't charged anything. I was advised that the problem was not internal to the trans. The trans shop put in a new vehicle speed sensor which did not fix the problem. I am grateful to the trans shop for not charging me and being honest and giving me a free VSS. Trans shop advised PCM was signaling proper shift points and shift solenoids were all doing their jobs properly. Yay for no charge, boo for the problem not being fixed.I then took my car to AAMCO for a trans diagnosis. Paid $50 for a diagnostic and was advised trans needed to be yanked out of vehicle and problems were internal to the tune of lots of cash. I walked out of there as fast as I could.I continued to drive the car with the erratic shift problem. Over time, the idle for the car begain to creep up also. I decided to blow some Seafom through the air intake which improved things but did not totally fix the problem. I then thoroughly cleaned the throttle body/throttle plate which improved things more but still did not totally fix the problem. I then found the above referenced post regarding replacing the idle air control valve. I didn't want to take the chance on getting a bad one from a junkyard so I coughed up $170.00 and paid off the local Ford dealer for a new one. Easy access, two bolts, one electrical connector, and gasket. Since replacing the IAC all shift problems and idle problems have vanished. Finally, money well spent on a part purchased from the dealer. I'm a happy gut until the next problem with my 99 Sable shows up. It runs like new...for now.

Another experience... My 98 Had the same intermittent high idle - could drive down the road at times without touching the gas pedal.

TPS trouble code was read so I replaced it - code came right back. Not a happy camper when that happened.

Shortening up the story quite a bit and what appeared to be the fix: a thorough cleaning of the throttle body - used an OLD toothbrush to especially get in and around the throttle plate.

Gather together: A big can of spray throttle body cleaner (Berrys B12 is what I used - and NOT carburetor cleaner), toothbrush, 5/16ths nut-driver to get the air duct off the throttle body. 20 minutes for the scrubbing should about do it.

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