When you want to use a MH bulb in an HPS ballast you must use a conversion bulb. It must be the same wattage as the HPS bulb
it would be ok in a circuit which didn't need a light bulb.
It can, but if you're wanting to run a 120v light bulb on DC, you'll need 120v DC to get the rated output. That's a lot of batteries. It's easier, and more sensible, to find a DC rated light bulb, such as an RV bulb.
To make a simple series circuit to light a bulb, the simplest components are a power source (such as a battery); a switch (to turn the power on or off); the bulb (obviously !); and some wires to connect everything together.
The bulb may be faulty or loose, there may be a loose wire or the battery may be in need of replacement.
That will vary on the manufacture and quality of the bulb. There is no set amount of lumens for a 40 watt halogen or any kind of bulb for that matter. To find out the lumen output you need to look at the box it came in as it should be stated. If you don't have the box it may be tricky to find out. You will have to see if you can find the manufacture somewhere on the bulb then google it and check the specs. It's probably safe to say its going to be around 500 lumens on average.
You need the appropriate ballast for either of these bulbs to make them light.
No. The bulb has to match the ballast wattage exactly. And you can't interchange different lamps (like metal halide) either. The ballast is specific to that wattage and lamp type. The bulb will either burn out quickly or just not work properly at all
The size of wire and breaker sizing are based on the current of the circuit. To answer this question a voltage must be stated or look on the ballast for the amperage and add that to the question.
Technically yes.But you need to check the practicality of it.
In most cases a cfl bulb can be replaced with an incandescent bulb as long as the base matches. for an example: if a cfl bulb has a GU24 base an incandescent bulb will not work! Also, ensure the wattage of the bulb does not exceed manufacturers rating.
If you have one or more of each type working, it is easy to tell the difference, a metal halide lamp produces a wide spectrum very white light, the high pressure sodium is a narrow spectrum light that is very yellow. If you just have the light fixture, and need to know what kind of lamp it is made for, the lamp type is often mentioned on the ballast nameplate or a small sticker near the lamp socket. If that does not work, a metal halide ballast will usually be two pieces, a transformer with a heavy laminated metal core, and a capacitor in a silver can. The sodium lamp ballast will have these also, but in addition it will have a lamp striker in a second silver can, or a plastic module. In other words Metal Halide ballast: 2 pieces, HPSodium ballast: 3 components.
They do not need any specific lighting. You can use any aquarium lighting from normal florescent tubes, to metal halide lights, to even LED's. The livestock that requires more intese lighting are different corals or anemones.
Had this problem myself. You can't just pull out the bulb. You need to remove the metal clip first(clip is around the base of the bulb holder)and then pull out the bulb. Don't forget to put the clip back on after replacing the bulb.
It seems most likely to me that the ballast of the dim one is bad--metal halide bulbs aren't simply connected to the 120 V line voltage but need a "ballast" for several functions, including producing a high enough voltage to start them and regulating the current through them. If one was bad (or was designed for a different bulb), that would explain everything. One other possibility is that there's a wiring problem and either the dim one isn't getting a full 120 V, or the others are getting more than 120 V. If this is a three-phase commercial installations there are various ways to mis-wire things and get odd voltages; in a residential system, you'd pretty much either have 120 or 240, and the 240 would probably quickly overheat a ballast made for 120, so that doesn't sound likely.
you don't need a bulb
First, you will need the mini light bulb Second, you will need the crank Third, you'll need the metal lid Fourth, you will need the generator thingy Fifth, you will need a small PVC pipe Sixth, you will need a red and blue wire Last, you will need a crank Mini light bulb connected to the small PVC pipe, small PVC pipe connected to the rectangle plank, rectangle plank connected to a metal lid, metal lid connected to a crank, and crank connected to a blue and red wire. You will put the glue on the generator thingy. Put on the red wire connects to the blue wire And there! A generator
The connector has a metal clip on it. You need to depress the metal clip and remove the connector at the same time by wiggling the connector. You will need to use a screwdriver to depress the metal clip. It is tight in there so you may have to push a few wire protectors out of the way. Once you have the connector off you will need to rotate the bulb housing clockwise. I have only have replaced the passenger side so I can not say for sure about the drivers side housing rotation. I exerted a slight clockwise pressure on the protruding connector, with a screwdriver, and it rotates less than 1/4 turn. Remove the bulb and housing, change the bulb. Check bulb then assemble in reverse order. This can save you $20-$30.